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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for input on anyone riding a 2001 - 2002 ZR chassis.
I bought a 2002 ZR600 standard to replace my good ole' 1999 ZR600 efi. I got a good deal on it and if it is half the sled as my 99, I am sure I will love it ---- once I get it set up.
So here is my situation:
The day after I bought it I tore the skid out, replaced a few parts and had all the shocks rebuilt (including front suspension). When I put the skid back together I set it up to about where the previous owner had the spring rates. The front skid spring is about four turns tighter than just having the spring rattling. The rear springs are on the middle block height. The skid is linked. The front ski springs are pretty tight, but I knew they had a bit more tension than needed and have backed them off.

I had a chance to hammer 120 miles on her last weekend and I was disappointed with how it handled the bumps. It was reminiscent of my old 96 ZR700. It cornered great, but you just took a beating in the bumps. Its all in the set-up.

I figure I have to loosen the front skid spring 2 or 3 turns and bring the rear springs to their lightest setting, but I was wondering about removing the coupling. My 99 was uncoupled and it was twice as comfortable in the rough, you just had to put some weight on the front in the corners. The skids are almost identical so I don't see why this one should ride any different than my old ride.
Do you guys run your skids coupled?
Do the couplers reduce travel?
What is your base suspension setting?

I am 200 pounds and 6' 3'' and ride trail aggressive, do any of you have a good base line setting for me to build on?

Just trying to save myself some time in set-up
Thanks all
 

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I might be able to help a little....just got done doing all this and seachering for the answer. I also weight a little over 200 Lbs and ride aggressively. My sled is a Zl, but the SS suspension as the same as the one the ZR :cussing: and it took me all last year to figure that out. So here's what I found, and my shocks are revalved to Zr specs....but still not as stiff as I like...but that's being taken care of by a member here.....that does nice work.

Coupleing block---pitch them, just be ready for a ski stand under hard throtle. I didn't loose any travel....it seemed to make it ride a little firmer. I spent several hour's trying to figure out how every thing worked together with the skid on the floor. Once the rear arm reachs the couplers it then uses the whole rail as the next pivot point, putting a lot of down force on the front of the sled, keeping the skis on the ground but also makeing it hard to ride "ontop" of thing's...like loose powder and water, not that I would know :D

The front skid shock is a personal prefence. PER Acrtic cat(and I have tryed it) the stiffer the front shock spring the more weight transfer you will get on Accelartion and Deccelatrion. Now be care full you can nose plant the front of the sled when brakeing and loose tack contact(well close) if it's TO stiff. The spring setting will also make the sled feel long or short(must be due to weight trasnfer). Can feel like dirveing a crew cab truck or Geo Metro. The stiffer the shorter it will feel.

There is also a note that a stiffer front spring will cause a loss of some speed, 5-8 MPH and a stiff spring will make it hard to "Plane" in loose powder.....but grab like heck it slopy slush. Per my service manel there are no negitive affects on a loos front skid spring setting...execpt the retaining collor falling off.

I'm assuming you mean getting beat up as a soft ride.....or "springy" ? I have been playing with the rear arm mounting points. Stock it second from the front(of sled). The solid bar sit's in the same number of holes back. Moveing both foward(tward front of sled) makes the springs seem softer and REDUCE(reduce amount of need force to compress shock) the effictive angel of the shock. Moveing the REAR arm back(with cross shaft) will make the rear spring seem stiffer. This also cahnges the angel of the shock, makes the shock MORE effictive and stiffer. It only took me 2 hour's and a home made Jig in my kitchen to figure that out.....just doing it in the sled was a lot less work than what I thought and would have saved a lot of time.

After haveing played with this in about every set of holes, I would say foward 1 hole is a 30% reduiction in ride firmnes. Moveing back get's progressively firmer, I would say 1st hole back from stock is 20% incress, and the 3rd is a 30% incress. Past this(4 holes from front of skid) there is no more use. NOTE every time the rear arm get's moved back you LOOSE Ride hight...but not travel....The travel part is per my Manule, ride hight is my tape mesure. The same apply to moveing foward...sled get's taller.

I have played with my front springs and the only thing I found othere than ride height is the way the sled likes to cornner. The stiffer to more it will come p on 1 ski....but less roll. I also found a soft front spring will ride up on the loose snow better and "plain" on water better. The stiffer the spring the easery it seems to pull the ski's....BUT it also want's to "spring" the front end up over every little hill and bump....be warned about those unexected "sharp" bump's with a lot of front spring pressure.....your going to see what the ski look's like.


Hope that help's....
 

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Opp's I didn't list my setting's.

I'm going for the softest spring setting on the rear(I'm getting my shock stiffened more) right now I have it set to setting 3, just sit's up a little high and lacking on the sag.

My front skid shock spring is about 9 turns past the point of rattling....I like weight transfer, and the short feeling in the twisty's. I'll probly looseing it up 3-4 turns when we get loose powder.

I have my front spring's about set so there's about 2 inch's of sag....set rideing and just costing to a stop, getting off and lifting front of sled. This DOES seem a little stiff for the trail's and it seem's to pop the front end on sharp bump's but I like it for the landing on ditch's....I'll probley go back to about 3 inch's of sag after my send my shock's back out.

Of course I have removed the coupler block's, much better if you ask me....the ski lift is just a +, but that's why I bought a CAT.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks man, thats good info.
I am thinking that I am going to pitch the coupling blocks, loosen the front spring and play with limiter strap adjustment.
The ride was harsh, it just felt like it had limited travel compared to my 99. I could feel the coupling blocks hit the rear arm and could feel the skid act like it just stopped moving. On my older zr I could actually feel and hear the shocks work under the sled, not this skid. It really rode like an older non-ett skid, it just had no travel and the ride was WAY to firm. I rode through some mine fields at a very aggressive clip and the sled only bottomed two or three times in 30 miles of this type of trail, it felt like it was set up for a 300 pound person.

I guess I will try small steps. I will remove the couplers and start from there.
 

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I need YOUR shocks. I can hear mine working(stiing still engine off) but they sure don't feel like it. I ended up with a "progressive" rear shock(has the oil bypass to half travel) adn wish I had a straight shock.

The coupling block's DO give that harsh feeling when they hit, and realy seem to screw with the ride....like they are reduiceing travel.



There IS a note in my service guid NOT to make the liniter strap's longer, after playing with the suspension in my "jig" I see a longer strap will want the skid to move farther back, aside from the weight transfer it will ALSO force the rear arm to hit the cross shaft that's the stop for the arm, it look's like it could cause some real issue's.

There is also a note that shortening the strap's will cause a incress in steering effort and may cause darting or wandering as well a wanting the front end to plow rather than plain.
 

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That was probably the best write up in layman's terms on what all of these settings do I've ever seen. I'd just like to thank you for writing it.
 

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I figured after I had to spend all last year plaged by not knowing I try and just firure it out.

After I spent all that time in my kitchen trying try to figure out what seemed like a GRAY area I'd like to pass it on to other's....might also help some other people useing a search a couple of years from now.....I would have payed a LOT of money to know some of this last year....includeing info on my SS shock's and what replaced them.


Good luck man.
 
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