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Discussion Starter #1
I need help setting up my 04 F7's suspension. I want the skis to come off the ground just a little bit. I put around 160 studs in it (what ever it called for) and all the sled does is spin. I think this sled would be fast if I could get it to hook up.
 

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put your rear spring setting on the weakest setting. put your coupler block on the thinest setting or take them out. if you need more tighten front shock some.(on rear skid) you will probably need to tighten front springs some also.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I will try that as soon as i get enough time. Do you have any more ideas on how to make my sled faster? I will be riding with a ZR 800 and want to keep up. Do you think this F7 will keep up with the 800?
 

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if your in any tight and twisties at all, that f7 will ride side by side with that 800.
if your after better performance from yours, start with clutching. this is definetly your best bang for the buck.
 

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To make the sno-pro hook up you need to remove the rear scissor blocks, change the rear springs out for a set of standard and run them in the softest setting. Drill new holes in your limiter straps to give it about 3/4 of an inch longer strap length. Loosen your front shocks off just a little to reduce ski pressure.

If you wanna beat the 800 you will need a new track (1") for starters unless you are running in deep powder. They rob so much top end speed the way they are.
 

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To make the sno-pro hook up you need to remove the rear scissor blocks, change the rear springs out for a set of standard and run them in the softest setting. Drill new holes in your limiter straps to give it about 3/4 of an inch longer strap length. Loosen your front shocks off just a little to reduce ski pressure.

If you wanna beat the 800 you will need a new track (1") for starters unless you are running in deep powder. They rob so much top end speed the way they are.[/b]

First off, I wouldn't listen to anything Rock Port wrote as all of it is false. I have tuned on severl F-7's and have only removed the Blocks. Don't waste your money on new springs as they are not needed. The 1" track is not needed either, the 1.375" does not rob you of all that much up top, maybe 3 or 4 mph.

First off, remove the blocks. This should free up the transfer you are looking for. Ride it now and let us know....
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Any suggestions on the Clutching for my 2004 f7 snow pro EFI? I dont want to spend too much $ but i dont want to get junk eather.
 

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I removed the Blocks, it looks like it will work. When i push down on the back it goes down instead of staying up.
 

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I removed the Blocks, it looks like it will work. When i push down on the back it goes down instead of staying up.[/b]
Go to the Outdoorshop.com and get a Clutch Kit, best money you can spend!!!!!!!!
 

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First off, I wouldn't listen to anything Rock Port wrote as all of it is false. I have tuned on severl F-7's and have only removed the Blocks. Don't waste your money on new springs as they are not needed. The 1" track is not needed either, the 1.375" does not rob you of all that much up top, maybe 3 or 4 mph.

First off, remove the blocks. This should free up the transfer you are looking for. Ride it now and let us know....[/b]
OUCH, just trying to help the guy. Sorry for the bad info but it worked for my sled.
 

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Dan would be your contact at the outdoor shop,,, very personable and will take care of you. He wants to make sure your happy with your purchase.
 

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OUCH, just trying to help the guy. Sorry for the bad info but it worked for my sled.[/b]

I wasn't trying to be an a$$, I just get a kick out of all the people who say the 1.375" track robs so much power. I have a 1.25" x 144" that will pull 113-114 on the big end with a bone stock motor. Everyone says no way it can do it because of the track.......

I am guessing you are light, 125-150#'s. If you are that size and have a Sno Pro, I can see why swapping out the springs would work. Sno Pro's are set up stiff. I go 225#'s and can make a sno pro squat and look straight in the air if I want to because I can make those springs work.

Good luck this winter guys!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
WOW, taking the blocks out helped a lot. Thanks for the help. Any other suggestions that would help me just let me know.
 

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WOW, taking the blocks out helped a lot. Thanks for the help. Any other suggestions that would help me just let me know.[/b]

Next suggestion would be Clutching.........
 

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I don't mean to hyjack your thread here, but wouldn't mind tagging along too since on a similiar topic. My stock "03 F-7 EFI(non sno-pro) has NO ski pressure what-so-ever. I haveta ride the thing like its a jetski to get anywhere in the woods, standing and leaning with every turn. A few of my friends have ridden it and gave it right back, scared...asking how the heck do you turn this thing....ride it like a bike..thats how, LEAN baby!! :undercover:
I would really like to fix this problem though.... I had the shocks rebuilt last year, didn't replace springs but I think that will be in store after this season. I weight in at a wopping 145 lbs., lol. I get plenty of traction in the back and can stand the sled up if I want to...just check out the avatar. :christmas: I do have studs, cant remeber how many, bought the sled with them...its a very odd stud pattern though, never seen it before on a F sled. Studs go out as far as the windows but not past them.
First off....what "blocks" are you guys refering to on the rear skid? Those triangle shaped spring tension adjustment blocks??? I just bought new billet ones because the stock plastic ones were half eaten away. :whatever: They are set on the middle setting after a local dealer rebuilt my shocks and supposedly setup the sled for my weight....don't think they did a great job though... My front end feels really soft now and starts to get lost in heavy whoop's, plus my ongoing ski pressure problems. The ski pressure problem has been there since I bought the sled and nothing the dealer did seemed to help it any, only made it worse. I am considering getting the double skags for it this year to see if they help any with my turning issue's. I've been told to tighten the coil-overs up a bit in the front to see if that helps any...but they are already 3/4 of the way up...front springs whomped on maybe?? Any insight/advice anyone might have is very much appreciated.. I dont know jack when it comes to tuning suspension...I'm only good with engine mechanics, not suspension setups. :christmas:
Thanks,
Dan
 

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Have to say I'm curious about which blocks are to be removed also. Not real familar with susp. settings or adjustments.. Mine acts like jerryl's and i'm 5'11'' 205lbs and the thing refuses to hook??

SWRules

be nice to have the problem corrected before the big storm on Sat.. w00t :thumbsup:
 

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Get down on your hands and knees at the very back of your rear suspension. If you look at your very back set of wheels, look toward the front of the sled about 6". You will see your rear scissors arm and there is one block on each side of the sled. It is square. Remove it!

The block couples the rear suspension to get a smoother ride in the trails but kills your weight transfer. Remove them and be amazed.......lol

Ryan
 

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I had my husband remove the rear blocks for me and I didn't notice the difference, is it just me or is there something else i can do to get more traction. It seems to really be sort of heavy feeling in the front also. I weigh in at 110 lbs. Any help on this would also be great. Oh ya 05 sno pro, thanks Nicole.
 

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Taking the blocks out will increase weight transfer and get ya hooked up out of the hole, but it is really going to sacrifice ride and handling.

1st off, make sure everything in the skid is up to par. Worn bushings and shafts will make a skid bind and make it difficult for the weight to move around where it was calibrated. If it binds the sled will tend NOT to hook up and NOT want to turn.

Second. Are the shocks up to spec? Loss of gas pressure will make everything weak.

You can get substantial traction on the F7, but they are a finicky light sled. Small changes like adding some extra idler wheels (more track and stud pressure), the 4 wheel rear idler kits, and different tracks make a huge difference.

Also, consider clutching around it, especially if you are under 200lbs. A simple swap to a helix with a tad more initial angle will do the trick. Even dropping engagement a couple hundred RPM can help.

Gearing down slightly can help.
 
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