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Discussion Starter #1
Well so far I've gotten the motor out and the topend off for maintenence. I'm not doing the topend yet since it looks sweet, like it's just past break-in. But I noticed the primary looks a bit hammered. The louvers are filled with crap and the thing is filled with ca-ca which randomly falls out while spinning it over slowly. I'm willing to bet that after 10 years the spring has lost some of it's game. The secondary is the same story.... looks beat from sitting.... And it's a dirty freakin' mess.
I don't know about anyone else, but I can't stand the site of a machine that's crying for attention. Plus maybe I'm a bit anal on the way things look too. Everything I own is in flawless condition or is close too it. and when it gets to the piont where it looks rough or beat I usually rip it down and clean it up just for the hell of it to keep me busy. powdercoat, anodizing, sometimes paint... It needs to look new to make me happy. Not that I give them any mercy either though, but still....

Anywho.... I was wondering what people think about a rebuild for the primary and driven? Worth it at this stage in the game or wait for next year? Keep in mind that I'm just about to move into my new house, so I'm lacking a big budget for the moment....

If so where can I find a clutch rebuild kit for a good price?

Any recommendations on springs for around 7600-7800? I'm only 175lbs if that helps....
 

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First off, disassemble the clutch and clean it in warm soapy water...don't use spray cleaners like carb or brake cleaner as they tend to contaminate the pulley surfaces. Scotch brite the pulley faces to remove belt debris. The primary spring is a Violet Yellow P/N 415 015 300 which has an installed pessure of 160 Lbs and a shift pressure of 230 Lbs. The stock spring is probably tired unless it has been replaced. A new Ski Doo spring will set you back $25.00. Check with Erlandson Performance inc EPI for a spring listing equal to you stock spring specs (maybe less expensive). EPI also make clutch kits and may have one for your model lying around. The rest of the clutch needs to be inspected so start by borrowing a bore gage and measuring the large and small bushings in the primary clutch. They are the most costly parts. Next check the rollers for smooth action and absence of binding. Check the fit of the governor cup to the splined auxillery shaft (no more than .020" looseness). Check the arms for side play and the ramps for wear (rolling over at the edges). Clean & polish the button grooves in the sliding half pulley and inspect the 6 buttons, 3 springs and 6 o-ring cushions. Once thats all done start on the secondary pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
yeah they look a lot worse than that actually.... and you see that REALLY rotten orange part of the disc.... yeah the whole rotor looks that way. I was going to pull the ol' flapwheel trick on that after I got it back together. See this is what I was talking about! I can't stand to see things look this way. It just bothers the hell out of me. you know my plan was originally to leave the whole thing alone and just beat the ever lovin' A55 out of it all year, then in the spring tear it down to the bulkhead and build it all back up with stainless structural rivets and alum cosmetic rivets.... new belly pan and a few more little things including some fresh powerdercoat and tweaks to the motor/clutch. But it's looking like I'll be doing this all in the next few weeks instead. I'm just counting the days until I move into my new garage.... ummm I mean house.... haha So I can set up shop and get to work. It's hard to scatter parts when you just know they will get lost in the move. Better off waiting I guess.....

yeah my primary must be about 20 grams off-balance from all the cacoons and crap on the one half of it. I want to split the cases just to see what the main bearing looks like. like I've said before I hate walking in the snow! :cool:

Happy Halloween!!!!!!!
 

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wow, if yours is worse than mine than you probably should clean it. The orange stuff is rust. Aluminum doesnt rust i thought.
 

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why did you rebuild????

as for clutches clean them yearly

TRAs last a lot longer then the other 3 manufactures clutches as Doo use ramps and rollers whihc are more stable vs the other 3
 

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yeah doo clutches year to year are generally just do for a cleaning and respringing. the t-doc has brought up a good point though as far as checking for bushing wear. most clutches under a zillion miles are ok in that respect though.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The orange stuff is rust. Aluminum doesnt rust i thought.[/b]
lmao..... yeah I heard that somewhere....hehe

Yeah man I'm willing to bet that these clutches have NEVER been off this sled. So even though there is only 3600 on it, it's 10 years old. I'm defineatly going to send the driven to goodwin and have them rollerize and go through it. The primary is gunna get a rebuild here at home. I might have a trick or 2 I have get out of my dad. I'll be moving the sled and stuff over to the new house tomorrow.


HEY!!! does anyone have a clutch puller I can borrow in the area? Or maybe swing out to my house for a few beers and a bit of help? I know there are plenty of guys in the area here..... just wondering.... I'm going to make a puller tool on the lathe at work eventually. I found a few on ebay for 25 bucks, maybe it's worth just getting one of these since they are hardened.

Either way... I have some time yet. the ol'checkin' account is going to be empty on weds. after I close on the house. Too bad too it's supposed to snow in a few days. Maybe not stick but at least it will be falling all the way to the ground (I hope) ~ L8R
 

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he hasnt rebuilt yet.[/b]
I meant his engine

why did he rebuild his engine????????
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So I found a guy on ebay that was selling a goodwin clutch kit w/secondary clutch (with the kit already in it) for a starting bid of $199 so I beat everyone to the punch and got him to sell it to me for $250 shipped. He says he had it on a 97 mxz 670 and only got to ride it with the kit about 200 miles before he sold the sled and pulled the kit out. It should be here tommorrow.

So.....

Can I put the ramps and spring in the primary without taking the pto half off the crank?

I already have the motor out of the sled so I could get under the plate for some cleaning and PM... So I was hoping I could get this kit in without buying a puller.

And for the secondary.... Is it a keyed shaft or a splined shaft? Do I need a special puller or can I use a standard automotive puller? I would like this to be as painless and effortless as possible so I can hit the trails this weekend.

~ Thanx!!!





PS... I didn't rebuild the engine freezerburnt... Just pulled it down to fix the broken y-pipe stud, and give her some fresh paint. will post pics when I get a chance
 

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First off, disassemble the clutch and clean it in warm soapy water...don't use spray cleaners like carb or brake cleaner as they tend to contaminate the pulley surfaces. Scotch brite the pulley faces to remove belt debris.[/b]
nice ,I know you stayed out of the other topic doc. but somehow I knew you felt the same as I, or like dad showed me.
 

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nice ,I know you stayed out of the other topic doc. but somehow I knew you felt the same as I, or like dad showed me.[/b]
Barry, I was sledding and repairing sleds long before these job specific chemicals came to the market. The key word or misnomer is "Labour Saving". There's no shame in getting your hands dirty on a job done well. I came from the same school of thought your Gramps & dad came from. The school of hard knocks.
 

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Yes you can remove the sliding half of the primary off. Observe all the alignment arrows on the clutch parts first and mark them. Heat the end of the clutch governor cup where the bolt goes in with a heat gun carefull not to over heat the rubber harmonic dampener on the cup. The reason why your heating it is to release some of the rust or loctite (some people use) out of the splines that locate the clutch extension shaft and the governor cup (cover). The cover must retain a tight fit or the clutch is junk. The cup and sliding half should never be hit with anything and the retaining bolt should only be removed with a socket and torque bar (never with an impact gun). The secondary only needs the M8 bolt andd spacers removed and it should slide off. You may need to loosen the belly pan mount at the LH stirrup to allow the secondary to completely slide off. There is a great post don by Rad Chad which explains (photos too) in great detail CVT cleaning and overhaul. Just do a search under "clutch or under Rad Chad's" user name.
 

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Anyone that lets their clutches look/get like that should be beat, run over and thrown off a cliff head first!!!!!! :cussing:
 

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Anyone that lets their clutches look/get like that should be beat, run over and thrown off a cliff head first!!!!!! :cussing:[/b]
LMFAO Tell us how you really feel !!!
 

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First off, disassemble the clutch and clean it in warm soapy water...don't use spray cleaners like carb or brake cleaner as they tend to contaminate the pulley surfaces. Scotch brite the pulley faces to remove belt debris. The primary spring is a Violet Yellow P/N 415 015 300 which has an installed pessure of 160 Lbs and a shift pressure of 230 Lbs. The stock spring is probably tired unless it has been replaced. A new Ski Doo spring will set you back $25.00. Check with Erlandson Performance inc EPI for a spring listing equal to you stock spring specs (maybe less expensive). EPI also make clutch kits and may have one for your model lying around. The rest of the clutch needs to be inspected so start by borrowing a bore gage and measuring the large and small bushings in the primary clutch. They are the most costly parts. Next check the rollers for smooth action and absence of binding. Check the fit of the governor cup to the splined auxillery shaft (no more than .020" looseness). Check the arms for side play and the ramps for wear (rolling over at the edges). Clean & polish the button grooves in the sliding half pulley and inspect the 6 buttons, 3 springs and 6 o-ring cushions. Once thats all done start on the secondary pulley.[/b]


How much wear is acceptable on the bushings in the primary and secondary clutches?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
how sloppy is the primary? I'd say if it's close to wearing out the edges of the slider pucks then your long over due. The secondary.... if they look beat then do them. Y bother messing around and waiting. look around ebay.... I got a goodwin kit with the secondary for $250... all brand new.
 
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