Your fuse box should be right on top of your ECU. At least thats where it is on my 95 EXT 580 EFI, I had a similar problem with mine last year the battery seemed good but it wouldn't hold a charge properly. Check the battery after a few days not being on the charger. Its normal for the LED on the ECU to blink once and the go out when you turn the key on this just indicates the ECU is getting power.
580 94 Ext Efi
:cussing: Im having the same problem i did last year, it just wont start, i checked the battery and put the charger on it and its showing.....12.8 which is good right?
Fuel pump isnt making any noise all i hear is a little click from the relay.
There is lots of fire, plugs are good.
The LED light is flashing only once on the ECU but very dim , not sure if its supposed to be
Checked all wires and they all seem to be ok.
Everyone says that the fuse box is above the battery but mine is not there where else could it be, i do have a 10 amp fuse by the battery and that one is ok.
Just 3 weeks ago i drove it out from behind the house and it started fine and now nothing what could be causing this? :bash:
Fuel pump isnt making any noise all i hear is a little click from the relay.
There is lots of fire, plugs are good.
The LED light is flashing only once on the ECU but very dim , not sure if its supposed to be
Checked all wires and they all seem to be ok.
Everyone says that the fuse box is above the battery but mine is not there where else could it be, i do have a 10 amp fuse by the battery and that one is ok.
Just 3 weeks ago i drove it out from behind the house and it started fine and now nothing what could be causing this? :bash:
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Your fuse box should be right on top of your ECU. At least thats where it is on my 95 EXT 580 EFI, I had a similar problem with mine last year the battery seemed good but it wouldn't hold a charge properly. Check the battery after a few days not being on the charger. Its normal for the LED on the ECU to blink once and the go out when you turn the key on this just indicates the ECU is getting power.
[/b]
The battery is keeping its charge so other than that im really not sure, someone mentioned today to take the relay for the fuel pump of and heat it up with a hair dryer to see if theres any moisture in it, does that make any sense to you?
That is a possibility, although I don't know anyone who has had moisture problems with these relays before. Anyhow If you want to test the relay quickly yourself there are two identical relays on the back of the ECU mounting bracket(the fuel pump relay is the one with the pink wire going to it, the other is the emergency stop relay) just swap the relays and if your fuel pump works you will need to buy a new relay. The relays are around $60 Cdn. Hope this helps if not let me know and I'll see want else I can figure out.The battery is keeping its charge so other than that im really not sure, someone mentioned today to take the relay for the fuel pump of and heat it up with a hair dryer to see if theres any moisture in it, does that make any sense to you?
[/b]
How do you swap the relays mine are not the same one is blue with 4 prongs and one is brown with 6 prongs, i wish i could get this figured out so i can get it going, does anyone here have a manual for a 94 580 Ext Efi, i was going to order one but they are over 100.00, a little high, should both relays come on at the same time, the brown one clicks 1 click and a few seconds later the blue one clicks, the blue one is the fuel pump relay.That is a possibility, although I don't know anyone who has had moisture problems with these relays before. Anyhow If you want to test the relay quickly yourself there are two identical relays on the back of the ECU mounting bracket(the fuel pump relay is the one with the pink wire going to it, the other is the emergency stop relay) just swap the relays and if your fuel pump works you will need to buy a new relay. The relays are around $60 Cdn. Hope this helps if not let me know and I'll see want else I can figure out.
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I was talking to another guy and he said that the one quick flash of the ecu meant the throttle position sensor wasnt working.
I dont know if all this makes any sense but i hope someone can help me out.
Thanks!
You could try and check to see if there is power getting to your pump but that involves removing your fuel tank cover, and tracing the wiring harness to find the fuel pump connector. Both your relays should click when you turn the key on one supplies power to the ECU, and the other to the fuel pump.
As for the flashes from the LED on the ECU
1996 and earlier
1 long + 1 Short flash = Shorted/Open throttle position sensor
1 long + 3 short flashes = Shorted/Open air temp sensor
1 long + 4 short flashes = Shorted/Open engine coolant temp sensor
2 long + 1 short flash = Faulty #1(MAG) injector circuit in ECU or open/short in
circuit to #1 injector
2 long + 2 short flashes = Faulty #2(PTO) injector circuit in ECU or open/short in
circuit to #2 injector
4 long + 1 short flash = Open/Short in injector timing sensor
4 long + 2 short flashes = Open/Short in injector timing sensor
1997 and later
1 flash = Open/Shorted throttle position sensor
2 flashes = Open/Shorted engine coolant temp sensor
3 flashes = Open/Shorted intake air temp sensor
4 flashes = Open/Shorted barometric pressure sensor
5 flashes = Faulty fuel injectors
As for the flashes from the LED on the ECU
1996 and earlier
1 long + 1 Short flash = Shorted/Open throttle position sensor
1 long + 3 short flashes = Shorted/Open air temp sensor
1 long + 4 short flashes = Shorted/Open engine coolant temp sensor
2 long + 1 short flash = Faulty #1(MAG) injector circuit in ECU or open/short in
circuit to #1 injector
2 long + 2 short flashes = Faulty #2(PTO) injector circuit in ECU or open/short in
circuit to #2 injector
4 long + 1 short flash = Open/Short in injector timing sensor
4 long + 2 short flashes = Open/Short in injector timing sensor
1997 and later
1 flash = Open/Shorted throttle position sensor
2 flashes = Open/Shorted engine coolant temp sensor
3 flashes = Open/Shorted intake air temp sensor
4 flashes = Open/Shorted barometric pressure sensor
5 flashes = Faulty fuel injectors
You could try and check to see if there is power getting to your pump but that involves removing your fuel tank cover, and tracing the wiring harness to find the fuel pump connector. Both your relays should click when you turn the key on one supplies power to the ECU, and the other to the fuel pump.
As for the flashes from the LED on the ECU
1996 and earlier
1 long + 1 Short flash = Shorted/Open throttle position sensor
1 long + 3 short flashes = Shorted/Open air temp sensor
1 long + 4 short flashes = Shorted/Open engine coolant temp sensor
2 long + 1 short flash = Faulty #1(MAG) injector circuit in ECU or open/short in
circuit to #1 injector
2 long + 2 short flashes = Faulty #2(PTO) injector circuit in ECU or open/short in
circuit to #2 injector
4 long + 1 short flash = Open/Short in injector timing sensor
4 long + 2 short flashes = Open/Short in injector timing sensor
1997 and later
1 flash = Open/Shorted throttle position sensor
2 flashes = Open/Shorted engine coolant temp sensor
3 flashes = Open/Shorted intake air temp sensor
4 flashes = Open/Shorted barometric pressure sensor
5 flashes = Faulty fuel injectors
[/b]
I dont understand how my snowmobile is a 94 and it only has the one quick flash of a 97 and up on the list you posted, there is no long flash just a quick one.
If both the replays are not coming on at the same time is that what you think the problem is?
Would that stop it from starting?
Is there a way to test them?
You mentioned switching them on top but they are both different so they cant be switched?
I tested the fuel pump for continuity
Thanks for your help!
When you first turn your key on the LED should flash once and then stay out. If it flashes more than once it is indicating a problem. The one flash when the key is turned on just indicates power is reaching the ECU. You said both relays would click so I don't think your relays are the problem. I would be looking at the fuel pump and making sure I am getting around 12 volts to the fuel pump, and making sure the pump has a good ground. From your description it sounds like your pump is toast. Its acting the same way the trucks do when they come into the shop I work in.
is the sled outside in the cold?
could be a small buildup of ice in the pump...it's happened to me... removing the pump and inspect it; it's an easy job.
remove it, let it thaw, then just rehook the connector. You should hear the pump cycle. if it still doesn't work, check that connector, and check the wiring at the pump mechanism, and also check the condition of the wiring whe the 2 wires meet with the top of the entire pump assembly. Normally the wire gets bent there and the wire gets exosed. I sealed that area with RTV gasket... no more problems... You can get all that done within about an hour...
Regards,
Oh, BTW... one flash is good... evrything is fine...also, check the connections on the fuel pump relay...
could be a small buildup of ice in the pump...it's happened to me... removing the pump and inspect it; it's an easy job.
remove it, let it thaw, then just rehook the connector. You should hear the pump cycle. if it still doesn't work, check that connector, and check the wiring at the pump mechanism, and also check the condition of the wiring whe the 2 wires meet with the top of the entire pump assembly. Normally the wire gets bent there and the wire gets exosed. I sealed that area with RTV gasket... no more problems... You can get all that done within about an hour...
Regards,
Oh, BTW... one flash is good... evrything is fine...also, check the connections on the fuel pump relay...
you should have a number of ground wires connected to motor near recoil. clean all ends. had this happen on my 96 pantera. atleast eliminate possibility.
Even if the battery tests OK it could still be the problem. The old EFI's were extremely sensitive to battery condition and the battery is usually the first thing to try on these sleds. Try a new battery, or borrow one from another sled that works fine. There are many people who install a new battery each season as regular maintenance.
Well thanks for all your help my machine started three days ago , im pretty sure it was the fuel pump that was frozen, its always seems like after we get a few nice days it will start, after 2 mild days and playing around with the wires a little it started and its still fine "knock on wood LOL"
Now most of the snow is gone cuz its been raining for 2 days LOL
Now most of the snow is gone cuz its been raining for 2 days LOL
Hi all I have a 1994 Ext 580 EFI I'm having issues with it starting I replaced the voltage regulator as it was not charging the battery properly but now it won't start at all I have also bypassed the TSS switch but that doesn't seem to make any difference at all. I'm also having a problem where the fuel pump is running with the key off as well not sure if this is causing it flood, therefore causing a no start problem? I'm at a loss as to what it is any suggestions would be of great help. Thanks Tony
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