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I bought a 1995 580 efi. When the machine is idling and you give it gas the rpms slowly rise, it hesatates. The tank has been flushed, throttle bodies cleaned, fuel pump and pressure regulator test ok, charging system is ok. However I get a code 14 from the ECU, (bad coolant temp sensor). They get $66.00 for the thing. Is there any way I can test it to be sure? It only has one wire plugging into it. How can you clear the stored codes?
 
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My bro has a 95 EXT EFI and he has had nothing but trouble with getting it over 55 mph.  It falls flat on it's face off the line too.  I suggested to him to put a quarter stick of dinomite in the tank.
 

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Are you describing the sled going into "limp" mode?  I had that problem with my 95EFI once.  It turned out to be a sensor. I can't remember which one it was, but my dealer told me it was common.  He fixed it and I've had no problems since.
 

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The coolant temp sensor for the ECU should have 2 wires and it's under the T-stat. The one wire is the coolant (switch) at the end of coolant log is for the red overheat light.
 

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ARCTICZRT600, You check the codes by looking at the ECU when you turn the key to "ON".  There is a red light that will flash which in turn is translated into numbers.  You need to know what each flash means i.e. have the service manual.

Spend the $66, make sure your battery is not hooked up when you install it.  Hook up battery, check codes after the new sensor is in.

FYI, my 95 ZR580efi has over 5,000 miles and has never had a sensor go.  MAKE SURE YOU CHECK THE BOTTOM OF THE INTAKE BOOTS BEFORE WINTER!!!  Good Luck
 

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I put the sensor in and no problems, sled runs great now, It has a slight flat spot from idle to about 2500 rpm, Is it still to warm outside? I thought efi would run good no matter what?
 

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Based on my experience, the flat spot, or hesitation from idle to about 2500 is normal.  Mine has always been that way and everyone else I know had the same.  The only time it's apearent is if I can the throttle from an idle.  When I'm riding, the engine is always above that anyway.
 
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The boots have a tendancy to crack letting air in.  Making the engine run lean.
 

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Your brother might have other problems.  When the sled goes into limp mode, you won't get it over a certain RPM range, something like 5000 or so.  As for the flat spot at idle, feather the RMP up to just about engagement then grab the throttle.  The sled should jump out of the hole and not stop till it hits around 95mph.
 

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</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (zrfam @ Aug. 09, 2002, 3:43pm)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">what are we loking for when you say check intake boots
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Personally I would take both intake boots completely off and look at them closely, especially on the bottom.  If they have any sign of cracks trash them right away.  You are letting in extra air to the cylinders which in turn means your going to cook your motor (i know this from personal experience).  Unfortunately most Arctic efi's don't have the exhaust temp sensor (O2 sensor).  I think if they did this would have prevented my problem.

I believe this cylinder design (tripple port??) from this generation cats created a slight hesitation at low rpm, yes it is normal to have to feather the throttle.  The only time you should notice it is if your at a dead stop and you put the throttle to the bar.
 

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my wifes 97 zr580 with 2300. mi. stator went out on last ride had no power or top endi would check this .cats do have problem with stators
 
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My bro's is fixed.  There was corrosion on the lead coming from the coolant sensor.  Cleaned it and now it is a ripping machine again.
 

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Yes do check your intake boots. I bought my sled last years and i broke a motor mount. When i had the motor out i checked my boots and sure enough both were torn the one all the way around the bottom. I think they mainly start to tear around the bottom first. As for getting a good launch my sled came with the clutch engaging at 5 grand and i tried different revs and it was always a dog till about 25 mph then it would go. I now have the stock spring in the prmary and its engaging at 3000 now but is still a dog out of the hole so is this normal for this sled or is something not right.
 
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It's a good thing my bro didn't take me up on my offer.  I offered to put an M80 in the gas tank.
 

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My clutching is stock and if I get the R's up to around engagement before hitting it, I don't have a bog at all.  How's the condition of the belt or secondary?
 
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