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Discussion Starter #1
I went on the trails for the first time with this sled today (opening early around here, really good snow conditions) when i open it up i seem to only be hitting 70mph tops..... is there anyway i can get more speed out of it? keep in mind i'm 240lbs give or take if i took a #### or not..... maybe i just need more room or maybe my secondary isn't doing what it is supposed to..... belt is fairly new and i smell rubber some what when i give it hell off the line...... i have a new belt but dont want to use it unless nessicary.... don't want to wear out two belts if i have a problem.... belt sits even on secondary when not moving.... maybe its just my weight. i'm thinkin about gettin rid of this sled and getting a 98 mxz 583 that sled probably goes a little better and it has studs.....
 

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I went on the trails for the first time with this sled today (opening early around here, really good snow conditions) when i open it up i seem to only be hitting 70mph tops..... is there anyway i can get more speed out of it? keep in mind i'm 240lbs give or take if i took a #### or not..... maybe i just need more room or maybe my secondary isn't doing what it is supposed to..... belt is fairly new and i smell rubber some what when i give it hell off the line...... i have a new belt but dont want to use it unless nessicary.... don't want to wear out two belts if i have a problem.... belt sits even on secondary when not moving.... maybe its just my weight. i'm thinkin about gettin rid of this sled and getting a 98 mxz 583 that sled probably goes a little better and it has studs.....[/b]
I'm no expert but seem like you are having the same problem as this guy

http://www.snowmobileworld.com/forum/index...showtopic=76727
 

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I went on the trails for the first time with this sled today (opening early around here, really good snow conditions) when i open it up i seem to only be hitting 70mph tops..... is there anyway i can get more speed out of it? keep in mind i'm 240lbs give or take if i took a #### or not..... maybe i just need more room or maybe my secondary isn't doing what it is supposed to..... belt is fairly new and i smell rubber some what when i give it hell off the line...... i have a new belt but dont want to use it unless nessicary.... don't want to wear out two belts if i have a problem.... belt sits even on secondary when not moving.... maybe its just my weight. i'm thinkin about gettin rid of this sled and getting a 98 mxz 583 that sled probably goes a little better and it has studs.....[/b]

I think that sled is haul'n ###... for it to go 70mph with you on it (no offence). Have a friend run it and see if it gets up any better. I have a 91 phazer it maxes out at around 130 kph which is around 78 mph and I am 165 lbs.

Have you done any mods?? how long have you had the sled? was it faster last year?

Good luck

Skoka
 

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sounds like a rock solid phazer to me. They only have like 65hp. Our group had to give up the phazers after some of us reached #200.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I think that sled is haul'n ###... for it to go 70mph with you on it (no offence). Have a friend run it and see if it gets up any better. I have a 91 phazer it maxes out at around 130 kph which is around 78 mph and I am 165 lbs.

Have you done any mods?? how long have you had the sled? was it faster last year?

Good luck

Skoka[/b]

No mods....... I think i have a deal lined up for me next season tho..... a 2000 sxr 700 triple with 8000+ miles on it for 1,000 bucks, i think i'll put triple cans on it just for the added 25 horse, the owner of this sled currently rebuilds the suspension every year and its well maintained, those 8000+ miles are all maintained miles and if it was beaten, i'm sure it could handle some jumps espcially if he rebuilds the suspension every year, greases it down and what not.....
 

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and i smell rubber some what when i give it hell off the line......[/b]
Make sure your clutches are cleaned, and clean the sides of your belt with dish soap and a scotch pad. Clean your clutch plates with a scotch pad as well. If you're smelling rubber, it's because your belts slipping. Cleaning the clutch plates and sides of the belt with a scotchpad and dishsoap, will help prevent that because you'll remove the "glazing".
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Make sure your clutches are cleaned, and clean the sides of your belt with dish soap and a scotch pad. Clean your clutch plates with a scotch pad as well. If you're smelling rubber, it's because your belts slipping. Cleaning the clutch plates and sides of the belt with a scotchpad and dishsoap, will help prevent that because you'll remove the "glazing".[/b]

Yea, what do you mean by scotch pad? a gritty type of paper? or one of those things that are used to clean ishes with the rough side......

also i was wondering if there is a way to tighten up my rear suspension..... i don't care if i make it a hard ride i just want it sitting higher, with its age comes wear so the shox are probably worn, and was wondering if there is a "jerry rig" that can help fix that.... thats it...

How does that sxr sound to you guys? good deal? thousand bucks 8,000 miles.... read above....
 

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Yup.... one of those rough pads for doing dishes.

As far as suspension goes, there are 2 things to look at. #1. Your main rear shock should be adjustable. At the top of the shock, you can turn it. There are different settings. Turning it will tighten or loosen the shock. You may have to remove the rear skid to do this, as it'll probably be real hard to adjust due to rust/corrosion etc. #2 If you look at your springs, where they rest in the undercarriage, there are (usually white in color) square plastic adjusters. Turning those adjusters with a wrench will tighten the springs. The thicker the side.... the tighter the springs. Because they're plastic, with real tight steel springs rubbing against them, they wear out with time, and the grooves that the springs sit in get deeper thus loosening up the suspension. So you may have to order new ones if the grooves are worn real deep. However, they're not expensive and are an easy part to replace.
If you don't understand what I'm talking about, then I can take pictures of my rear skid and highlight the adjustable parts.
Also, the actual shock itself is only meant to absorb the impact when hitting bumps etc. It's the other 4 springs that keep the rear end elevated and force it up so that the shocks are able to open up again to be ready to absorb the next bump. There is also a possibility that you could have a broken spring somewhere causing the sled to sit lower.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yup.... one of those rough pads for doing dishes.

As far as suspension goes, there are 2 things to look at. #1. Your main rear shock should be adjustable. At the top of the shock, you can turn it. There are different settings. Turning it will tighten or loosen the shock. You may have to remove the rear skid to do this, as it'll probably be real hard to adjust due to rust/corrosion etc. #2 If you look at your springs, where they rest in the undercarriage, there are (usually white in color) square plastic adjusters. Turning those adjusters with a wrench will tighten the springs. The thicker the side.... the tighter the springs. Because they're plastic, with real tight steel springs rubbing against them, they wear out with time, and the grooves that the springs sit in get deeper thus loosening up the suspension. So you may have to order new ones if the grooves are worn real deep. However, they're not expensive and are an easy part to replace.
If you don't understand what I'm talking about, then I can take pictures of my rear skid and highlight the adjustable parts.
Also, the actual shock itself is only meant to absorb the impact when hitting bumps etc. It's the other 4 springs that keep the rear end elevated and force it up so that the shocks are able to open up again to be ready to absorb the next bump. There is also a possibility that you could have a broken spring somewhere causing the sled to sit lower.[/b]
That would be cool if you could get some pictures to me, if its not to much trouble.....

thanks
 

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My mistake. It doesn't appear as though the rear shock on mine is adjustable. But here's a pic of the rear spring tension adjusters. Mine are black (got painted with the springs) but you can see what I mean. There are also adjustments like this for the front springs. However, my sled is actually a 93 Venture and may be slightly different, but for the most part, it's the same sled.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yea, i don't think mine is adjustable either, i'll have to take a look at it, but that picture above, do i jsut tighten the bolt there and it tightens the suspension, or do i loosen it and lift the suspension up and then tighten that?
 

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you have to take that bolt off to remove the tin clip that holds the spring on. Then you just spin that square plastic thing. Each of the 4 sides have grooves in them for the spring to sit in. Each groove is a different depth. The deeper the groove, the closer to the shaft the spring sits. the closer the spring to the shaft, the softer the suspension. So you want to set it at the shallowest groove, to put as much tension on the spring as possible. Oh, and If I recall correctly, I think the front spring adjusters are triangular in shape on mine (now that I think about it), but still the same concept.... 3 different depths of grooves. I just took a rear skid out of a 91 Phazer, and put it in my buddies 82 SRV, and it too has the tension adjustments. So I'm making an assumption that yours will too. However, like I said, yours could be worn out and the grooves may have deepened with time, so you might have to order new ones. But they're cheap, and are a "periodical maintenance" kind of part. It's just something you have to change every once in a while.

Here is a quick diagram of how the tensioners work. Make note of the distance between the bolt hole and the outside edge of the tensioner block. The hole is not centered giving each side a different setting.
 

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I know my "how to's" are really not that easy to understand as I often contradict myself in my explanations of things. I'm definately not a teacher, I'm more of a "do'er". And am not the greatest at explaining much of anything. Hopefully though I've been of some help. It's not really a procedure which is that difficult though, so I'm hoping you'll be able to figure it out without too much trouble. Now that being said, you definately dont' want me "talking" you through a bottom end engine rebuild, or you'll probably end up bolting the heads to the motor mounts and crazy glueing the crankshaft to the driven sheave.... lol.
 

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I just have to add that you don't have to remove the bolt, just take it out far enough to move the tab out of the way. I just did it to my 91 Phazer last night.
 

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Well.... if the Doo is your choice of sleds..... then you better get used to fixing it up... cuz you'll spend more time in the garage then on the powder.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well.... if the Doo is your choice of sleds..... then you better get used to fixing it up... cuz you'll spend more time in the garage then on the powder.[/b]

I am by no means brand loyal, but i will not buy polaris..... And ski-doos imo are very dependable.. the big three are fairly decent, its all about the riders.....


thanks for your help, i just got back from being out on the trails for about 4 hours.... good first day, 80 miles on 7 gallons of gas.


i also have been looking at a 2000 yamaha sx 700r for 1000 bucks, it has electric start, reverse, and it has 8000 miles, i'd like to get that ski-doo, just to rebuild the big block and mod it some, the only conundrum i have with the srx with reverse is i cant put triple pipe in it..... or can i?
 

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A friend that I ride with has the same sled and is about your weight he used a polaris indy 500 or 600 suspension and the skis with a little grinding to remove the notch. Just make sure to measure first on the suspension to make sure you get the right one.I know it's sacralidge to mix brands but thats what he did and it works great.
 
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