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Discussion Starter #1
Need some help!!!! Have a 1995 ZR580 3000 miles. It will not move, runs great. It start last season on the 2nd trip, was told it was my clutch, could get it up to 70mph but would drift down to about 40mph, rebuild the clutch (which was in bad shape) did not fix the problem, bought and installed a new 9 tower, had the motor rebuilt the carbs cleaned and sync. new belt, and of course new plugs and wires, I put the sled away with out riding it last year(after all the service) brought it home this year and noticed it was acting the same way. to describe the problem alittle better.
-sled starts good and runs smooth
-hit the gas clutch engages @ 4000+ or- 200 rpm
-starts to bogg down will not move
-can rev it up to get it to move but that is it
-compression is about 125lb on each cylinder
please help
 

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sounds like stator my 97 did the same had to push sled to get to move.easy to check with ohm meter and man.
 
 
 
 

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First off has the sled ever been crashed? Did you check all the drive components? I.E.- jackshaft, drive shaft and track sprockets, chain and  sprockets, Idler wheels and shafts. How are the bearings on any and all of the shafts related to them?
Is your CDI box and associated electricals ok.Your coils could be getting hot which could cause issues but I really don't think it's that.Carbs in sink and choke adjusted ? How is your offset and center to center distance? I would go through the entire sled from front to rear.Since the clutching is new and the motor was rebuilt you need to be absolutely positive that it is neither of those.That way you can take clutch/engine related problems out of the equation.
In addition is this sled an EFI? If so I would also look into that part of the equation.

Good luck and let us know what it was.

 

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Sounds to me like the EFI's in "Limp" mode.  Had the same thing happen to my '95 a few years ago.  Sled would start and idle great but couldn't get more than a crawl.
My dealer adjusted some sensor, and it's run great ever since.
One of these days I'm going to find out what he actually adjusted because it sounds like I'm not the only one that's run across this.  If I bump into my dealer at Haydays this weekend, I'll ask him.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
The Sled is a carb model, and no it has never been wreck, My local dealer won't touch the thing, pretty sad, since they were the last to work on it. I have replaced all the wheels last year, I take the complete susp. out and clean every year, before the season (michigan tons of sand) also replaced the jack shaft bearing last year.
Thanks for the help keep the ideas coming, must be running by X-mas
 

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Maybe electrical, get a ohm meter, a manual and do some checking.  4,000 rpm seems high for engagement unless you have had clutch work done.  Check your center to center and alignment.  Check the secondary clutch as well, this one is easy to take apart.  You may have a broken spring, worn out slider buttons which would mean you have metal on metal.  Does the drive belt sit flush to 1/16" above the secondary?  If not something is wrong with the secondary.
 

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jafgreen, where in Mi do you live. I live near Detroit and have a cabin near Tawas, I may be interested in looking at it. I have owned over 100 sleds an am curious as to what is wrong with it. I am an auto mechanic so I shoud be able t get thru it.
Do you by chance---- have the parking brake set? Not a joke I have seen it, I hve even seen a polaris burn down because of this. Kevin
 

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I had an 91 Indy 650 that would do the exact same thing and we were pulling our hair out when we decided (the only thing left to change) to change the ignition module and everything worked fine I guess it wasn't advancing the timing. If you have a spare swap it out because they are expensive.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
How about the crank shaft seals any one heard of this. Last night I pulled the belt off to spin the track and check for binding, it spun real free with no binding but I did notice the secondary clutch was a little sticky and slow closing
 
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