I just bought it and was told that the carbs had just been cleaned although they dont look like it from the outside. I figured they would look clean but they look dirty. This sled is a triple and I cant wrap my head around three carbs doing the exact same thing at the same time. The only sense I can make of it is the problem has to be before the carbs. There is a mechanical fuel pump but once there is a hole in the diaphram they are done and this has become an intermitten problem. am I thinking right here?
I should fill in the blanks. A couple weeks ago on a cold day (about 20 degrees) I was riding wide open and the sled started bogging a little so I took the sled home. After a spell of warm weather ( about 40 degrees) a storm rolled in and the cold returned. I started the sled ran around town for about an hour with no problems, I put fresh premium gas in and headed up the mountain, after about 3 miles it started bogging, just a little at first but getting worst. I turned around to head down off the mountain and it died. I got it to fire but only for seconds like the bowls on the carbs were running dry then nothing. My thinking is if one carbs was having float issues I would still get something.
X2 on testing the gas for water. Problem could be several things. Start with the basics. Clean the carbs good (should be done on any new to you sled and every year). Check all gas lines and replace if any doubt. New plugs. Trim back plug wires. New fuel filter. Check the gas line in the tank (could be cracked, broken, or disconnected causing the sled to starve for fuel). Check impulse line from engine to fuel pump (if there is fuel in it, diaphragm is ruptured). Clean and inspect clutches.
It's important to eliminate the basics first before further testing. I would test the compression also so you have a base line.
I figured out that the sled runs out of gas at about a quarter of a tank by the guage so as you mentioned it has to have something to do with the hose in the tank. I have found a couple other issues that have to be dealt with first. I had a coolant problem and in searching for the leak I discovered the o ring on the cap for the middle cylinder was blown out and when I pulled the cap off I found a crack in the head and a small hole melted thru the head on the crack. That explains the o-ring being blown out and the coolant issue. I also found the two cylinders on the pto side leaking gas and the floats are set right so I am picking up a new head and new needle and seats today.
Ok so an update. I got the new head put on and the motor back together. While the motor was out I addressed the fuel problem. The hose in the tank was broke off the brass nipple, I repaired the hose and replaced the tank. I put the motor back in with new NGK plugs. I double and triple checked everything. Two plugs with three wires each to the stator and pickup coil, One ground for the ecm, temp sensor, and ground and coil wires. When I pull no spark, I checked and no voltage to any of the three coils. I was told maybe the kill switch so I will bypass and double check continuity on the ground wire for the ecm. Does anybody have a book with wire specs for the stator and pickup coils? the sled is a 96 polaris RMK ultra.
I put a different cdi box on my sled and still no spark. I omed out the exciter and the pulse coils again and they are right where they are supposed to be. I disconnected the single black wire from the cdi so that takes all the safeties the kill and key switch out of the picture but still no spark. Any help would be appreciated.
How exactly does the stator work? there are three coils there, the exciter, the trigger, and the light coil. does the light coil being the largest build power in the exciter and the trigger send the power to the cdi? the light coil is the one im not sure about. The ohm value is 0.17 and it ohmed out at .3 thats below the +- 10% but if all it really powers is lights and guages that should not matter.
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