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Discussion Starter #1
I have come into a 97 Mach Z that has a seized ACM on it; I understand that this is not uncommon, but my mechanical inclination has been automotive in direction and am looking for some guidance on a simple way it can be dealt with.  Due to driving junk on the road, I'm in good shape tool-wise, just looking for advice, opinions, etc.

Thanks to any and all
 

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Pull that ACM right out and drop it in a bucket of used oil next time u change oil in your car. Get it freed up and then dissemble it, sand the rod and put a good amount of no-seize on it. You will probably have to pull the suspention to do this or you should anyway because the cross shafts are probably rusty from no grease and will need a wire wheel taken to them also. A little grease or no-sieze on the rod and the rest of the suspention [zerks] after a weekend of riding will keep it from ever happening again.
This is what I would do if it ever happened to me.
 

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If you don't want to pull your suspension out just spray the crap out of it with PB Blaster, that stuff is magic.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I'm a bit leery about yanking the suspension out at the moment; I'm sure it's not that bad, but it does look a bit daunting at the moment,  so I will most likely try some penetrating oil to get things moving and see how that works.  Once I free things up, maybe I can get the offending pieces out and clean things up a bit better.  Will order the FSM on the weekend to try and familiarize myself a bit better with things.  Any idea if this PB Blaster stuff is available up here in Canada?  Never heard of it until tonight, and after checking out the website, I think I'd like to try a can of the stuff.  If not, let me know where you find it in the US, and I'll get someone to bring some over for me.

Thanks all  for the info, I think I have my Sunday planned out now.
 

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Pull the suspension, and do the job right.  Its really not that hard.  Once you do it, you won't hesitate again.
Penetrating Oil (there are a ton of them on the market) might free it up, but it won't clean out the contaminates.

FishHog
 

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Use a low heat source like a Wagner heat gun or a propane torch and you might get the nut to expand some.
 

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Just yank it out. It's so simple a child could do it! Besides, you may find other problems like cracked welds, worn shafts, cracked rails, and probably the shocks are junk if they have over 4000 miles. How about some new hifax? What kind of shape are the idler wheels and their bearings in? I guarntee they need some grease!
Your suspention takes a hek of a beating and needs a lot of maintenance to stay top notch......

Oh ya, put some AD bolivin connectors on that SC-10 for bunch better handling & riding sled.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Actually, the hyfax and all the idler wheels were replaced in the spring;  the person that had it before my only specified those to be checked/replaced at the dealer...once he was told about the acm, he decided that another sled that had been better taken care of  might have fewer issues cropping up and be more to his liking...I tend to pick up other people's problems and trade time against money, gambling that the learning curve isn't too steep.  If I am to remove the track, which appears to be both correct and relatively easy, should I be keeping an eye on how many turns on the adjustment bolts I make to release the tension (trying to relate it to torsion bars) so that it can be put back exactly as before?  If not, is there a rule of thumb on tension?  Does the fact that the suspension appears frozen at what I would guess is maximum lift be an issue?
 

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Last summer I took down my SC10 to the last nut & bolt,
cleaned, greased and reassembled and it made a noticable
improvement. When I sat down it compressed the suspension
nicely and then when I stood up and got off the seat
followed right with me as I took presure off it till it
reached it's limit of travel. When you put the skid back
in the biggest thing to worry about is track alignment
and track tension. And those both come from the two bolts
at the back of the rails that push on the rear shaft.
Try it! If you get stumped or your not sure just ask and
someone will help you out. It's pretty straight forward.
 

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Electric head,if you want to set the track tension for optimum performance on that Z,loosen the track until you hear it ratchet on the drive sprockets and then tighten it up 1/2 a turn or so and then it will be able to spin free and loose with the least amount of drag.
 

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Pulling the suspension is the best way to fix your problem, but no garage should be without a can of PB-Blaster either, so to answer your question I have bought it at Wal-Mart and any auto parts store should have it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
All right, I've pulled the unit out (had to remove the small idler wheel shaft in the tunnel) without being able to lessen the track tension due to the axle shaft being siezed in the rail, and as it sits on the ground, it is one...

The whole thing rolls nicely on last year's bearings, the hifax look a bit chewed due to surface rust on the the clips, but there is no suspension movement whatsoever, front or back.  The front shock is set on it's stiffest setting,  the ACM nut comes off easily and pretty much anything else made of steel has rust on it.  By the looks of things, I'm thinking I can remove the four bolts holding the ACM bracket to the rails, and then put my impact driver on the bolts holding the ACM bracket to the rear arm; providing that goes well, I should have some idea as to whether anything else has  crapped out.  

It does appear that the damper for the back is bent slightly, and the rubber straps on the front are cracked on the bottom.  Are the straps issues that i should worry about?   Is this thing as full of bushings as I think?  If so, most likely all will have to be replaced.   How do the springs come off without decapitating heads or severing limbs?  They look rather nasty to me.  The only way I can think of would be to put a 6' pipe with some type of hook on the end to allow some leverage on the spring to reduce the tension...then pull the idler wheel and the bracket that holds the long end of the spring.

I'll check Wal Mart here for PB Blaster, but often there are goodies that are available south of the border that we can't get up here in Canada for whatever reason.  There is a friend of the family in Port Huron, and I'm sure I get a can or two brought over next time he visits my Uncle in Point Edward.

Thanks for the continued interest and advice...
 

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See I told ya you would probably find some problems. There isn't a lot of bushings and chances are their not to worn just rusted up. You need to pull the whole suspention down and go over every part and repair or replace to get the most out of it. Make a list and get what you need on order.
Sounds like the front shock is blown with the spring set up all the way and you say a bent rod on the back one? Not good, sounds like a new set of shocks are in order. 3-$400.00 will buy a good pair of new one's.
The springs come out easy, pull the plastic slider off [behind the second idler wheel] and the big wheel on top [one allan screw] and it will come off. Just take your time and you can get it back it working order, just makes me wonder about the rest of the sleds condition with a suspention in that bad of shape?
Keep us posted ,Mike
 

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Hey electric head glad to hear you pulled the skid out, if you just take some time to look at the skid you will get the idea of how she works.Also you should get the manual lots of good info and you can also see the microfich at www.ronnies.com he is a on line dealer I have used his site often. good luck jeff in nh   p.s the pb blaster is worth finding that`s all we use at the shop way better than wd40 IMHO... jeff in nh
 

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Just wondering if anyone has herard of Kroil Oil? I have heard from many people that it's the cat's meow of penetrating oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
In today's news....

Been busy with a few other things, but have started taking the back brackets off.  The pivot/bolt at the rearmost of the back suspension is siezed big-time...previous owner(s) must have thought zerks were nice decorative accessories...will be visiting a friend with welding equipment to put some heat in it.  Once it's out I'll get a new one, as I put a slight twist in it already.  Hence the heating.  Sheared one other bolt head off, but should be able to have a nut welded on what's still sticking out and then put the heat to that one as well.  I was mistaken earlier  in saying that the front arm was siezed; it isn't, so, unless I have to remove all bolts down one side of one rail to things out, I'll try to just loosen them enough to get the back stuff out.  Should I be worrying about the cracks in the bottom of the limiting straps on the front?  Welder bud says if I clean the big stuff off the brackets, he/we can use some diluted muriatic acid to get the rust off.  After that, maybe I'll see if a friend can come through with some powder coating.

Thanks for the pointer for the online fiche site.  It'll make life easier for the parts guys when I can quote actual numbers.  My FSM should be here any day now.

On a side note, I have yet to see this fabled PB Blaster stuff in Eastern Ontario...friend of mine had some stuff called Pen(n) that worked similar miracles to PB Blaster, but he can't find the guy he got it from before.

Thanks for tuning in; we now return you to your regularly scheduled programming.
 

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If you question the limiter straps at all and you already
have the skid out, replace them. Sounds like the previous
owner didn't like his sled that much.  
 
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