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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 1996 XCR 440,, got a new track, 1.5" paddles... for my underside clearence i added shackles, "L" stock bolted on.

Now the question: From the original bolt hole in the rear for the chassis to bolt to the frame I went vertically down 2",,, straight down...

After assembly i found out this is wrong,,, my pivot arm in the rear by the bumpers is maxed out..... Someone must know what i mean... The rubber bumpers by the rear wheels,, for max compression and max. rebound.

So instead of vertically down,, was i to go forward w/ the new hole ? Should this be a 45 deg. movment ?

Dropping the chassis down does that bolt hole move on what angle as it drops?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
I have a 1996 XCR 440,, got a new track, 1.5" paddles... for my underside clearence i added shackles, "L" stock bolted on.

Now the question: From the original bolt hole in the rear for the chassis to bolt to the frame I went vertically down 2",,, straight down...

After assembly i found out this is wrong,,, my pivot arm in the rear by the bumpers is maxed out..... Someone must know what i mean... The rubber bumpers by the rear wheels,, for max compression and max. rebound.

So instead of vertically down,, was i to go forward w/ the new hole ? Should this be a 45 deg. movment ?

Dropping the chassis down does that bolt hole move on what angle as it drops?[/b]




I must add,, the shackles are only in the rear,, front bolts are same location...
 

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I must add,, the shackles are only in the rear,, front bolts are same location...[/b]
i did this on the one i had but it a little more complicated they you did it. first this skid is a little weird and they mounted it in the tunnel a litle off. your biggest problem is you didnt keep the same center to center distance and you need to move the front arm down. ill get some measurements of my old one this weekend, its up north, and get back to you. i move mine down 1.75 in the back then forward 3/4 of and inch i think and then the front down 1 inch and back .5 inch but i also raised the front so youll probably only need to move the front down .75 in and back .5 inch.
 

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i did this on the one i had but it a little more complicated they you did it. first this skid is a little weird and they mounted it in the tunnel a litle off. your biggest problem is you didnt keep the same center to center distance and you need to move the front arm down. ill get some measurements of my old one this weekend, its up north, and get back to you. i move mine down 1.75 in the back then forward 3/4 of and inch i think and then the front down 1 inch and back .5 inch but i also raised the front so youll probably only need to move the front down .75 in and back .5 inch.[/b]


I was planning on leaving the front alone, the paddles just clear and looking down the tunnel it seems ok cause there will be major tension right therre casue the wheel is pulling hard at that point, i realize the overall angle of the chassis puts more load on the front by me only raising the rear but i think it will be ok,,, it's as you say, you can go down,, but you must also go forward..
Can you get me the ratio,,,,, or do you think it was 1.75 down,, and .75 forward.

If i go forward 1",, the rear pivot will move forward about .75,, which then i can compress my suspension hopfully full stroke before hitting the bumper on that pivot.
 

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your saying you move the rear two bolt meaning the rear mounting location 2 inches straight down corret? well the suspension will not work right if this is all you to, it will make it way worse actually. the general key is for every inch you move the rear down you much move the front a half inch. also you must keep the center of front bolt to center of rear bolt distance the same. well in this suspension poo didnt mount the center to center quit right. are you following. so you need to move everythign aroudn some
 

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Discussion Starter #6
your saying you move the rear two bolt meaning the rear mounting location 2 inches straight down corret? well the suspension will not work right if this is all you to, it will make it way worse actually. the general key is for every inch you move the rear down you much move the front a half inch. also you must keep the center of front bolt to center of rear bolt distance the same. well in this suspension poo didnt mount the center to center quit right. are you following. so you need to move everythign aroudn some[/b]


Ok, so thats why straight down does not work,, cause when you drop the rear bolt vertically down you have to move it forward cause the 2" down rotates the whole chassis a number of degrees...
 

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Ok, so thats why straight down does not work,, cause when you drop the rear bolt vertically down you have to move it forward cause the 2" down rotates the whole chassis a number of degrees...[/b]
now you getting it, also moving straight just straight down elongated the center to center distance. to keep center to center the same you have to work on a radius no a triangle. ill get oyu the measurments this weekend.
 

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now you getting it, also moving straight just straight down elongated the center to center distance. to keep center to center the same you have to work on a radius no a triangle. ill get oyu the measurments this weekend.[/b]


Thanks, you helped a few people around me on this,, most people i know just do the 1" and do it the wrong way and it just washs out and everything is fine.... This 2" can not get away w/ that.


I really don't want to drop the front just cause it's not as easy metal wise,,, i do see how there is more load on the front cause the track slowly comes off the floor as you look towrds the front of machine.(very slight)... But,, when i ride my machine it has the XCR adjustment suspension dial at the steering and i usually have it cranked a little which it's function is to raise the front of the chassis for more load on the front skies... So basically w/ me dialing the front rear chassis shock down,,, and doing the 2" lift in only rear bolts,(and i do the 1"move forwards for fix), i am at the stance by default as when i crank my dial..... Did i explain that ok ? Does this make sense ?
 

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Thanks, you helped a few people around me on this,, most people i know just do the 1" and do it the wrong way and it just washs out and everything is fine.... This 2" can not get away w/ that.
I really don't want to drop the front just cause it's not as easy metal wise,,, i do see how there is more load on the front cause the track slowly comes off the floor as you look towrds the front of machine.(very slight)... But,, when i ride my machine it has the XCR adjustment suspension dial at the steering and i usually have it cranked a little which it's function is to raise the front of the chassis for more load on the front skies... So basically w/ me dialing the front rear chassis shock down,,, and doing the 2" lift in only rear bolts,(and i do the 1"move forwards for fix), i am at the stance by default as when i crank my dial..... Did i explain that ok ? Does this make sense ?[/b]
first of you have an xcr sp model (same on i got) just to tell you. second as for the moving the front down, all you need to do is measure the drill two new holes in the tunnel, its supper easy. the thing is whay im trying to tell you here is you chagned the suspension geometry and the skid geometry. for the skid to work as it is suppose to geometry is very important. ill get some pics to. mine looks kinda funny becasue i rivited and extra peice in there because i drilled more then two hole because it was not right, i spend a lot of time with paper and a pencil doing equations to get this all right so just trust me on this.
 

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ok i got everything but may want to change a little for you. on the front it down 1 inch and back 3/4, make sure to measure with a square from the top of the tunnel and not just eye it. in the back it as 1 3/4 down and 5/8 to the front.
id say for you, you should got 3/4 down, 1/2 back in the front and 2 down and 5/8 in in the back. here are some pics
 

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ok i got everything but may want to change a little for you. on the front it down 1 inch and back 3/4, make sure to measure with a square from the top of the tunnel and not just eye it. in the back it as 1 3/4 down and 5/8 to the front.
id say for you, you should got 3/4 down, 1/2 back in the front and 2 down and 5/8 in in the back. here are some pics[/b]

Yup, thats my sled... Thanks for the #'s , I went 2" down and 3/4 forward in the rear.... Also in the rear I re-drilled to move the max. compression bumper back on a radius cause my pivot arm was 1/8" away from max. when i compressed on the rear,, so it moved about 3/4" on that Raduis.
 

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Yup, thats my sled... Thanks for the #'s , I went 2" down and 3/4 forward in the rear.... Also in the rear I re-drilled to move the max. compression bumper back on a radius cause my pivot arm was 1/8" away from max. when i compressed on the rear,, so it moved about 3/4" on that Raduis.[/b]
sounds good hope it works out well for you
 
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