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You could just go to your local hardware store and buy a piece of 3/8 key stock about 20 inches long and a ruler, your total investment will be under $10.00
Clamp the key stock between the secondary clutch.
Between the pri and sec clutch you should have 16.5 mm
The Y spec is 35mm
the x spec is 36.5.
Doo you have a manual?
I will try to draw you a picture and will post it .
 

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it seems to me that $103.97 for a tool that will prevent you from buying 60 dollar belts every 100 miles is worth the investment.
 

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it seems to me that $103.97 for a tool that will prevent you from buying 60 dollar belts every 100 miles is worth the investment.[/b]

So their are suckers born every minute...
I have one I'll sell ya for $103.97 shipped free, what a deal huh?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So their are suckers born every minute...
I have one I'll sell ya for $103.97 shipped free, what a deal huh?[/b]
im going to trust one more shop in this town,it's going in.Thank you everybody. dave
 

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When I bought my sled, I ordered a service manual, alignment bar, and a clutch puller tool.

I picked them all up, headed out to the garage. Opened up the service manual, and read something like this:

"The clutch alignment tool is only used as a GO/NO-GO gauge for quick alignment checks. You should actually use a 3/8" square steel bar to adjust alignment using the chart on the next page..."

Geez, was I glad I just spent all that money for the special alignment bar, only to find out at I could have just picked up a $5 steel bar at the hardware store instead.

If you want the Doo bar, I have one I'll sell you. Shoot me an offer..
 

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I use a 3/8" flatbar and a pair of 8" dial calipers from the old machine shop days.
Can get the alignment dead on with these.
 

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I just spent the last 2 days with mine, trying different belts. My bulkhead is a little tweeked from past damage. Basically, I put the belt on, eyeballed it for straightness and set the belt deflection. Tighten the stopper up to touch the engine. Then, remove belt, and align using bar stock. Now try the belt agaun. chances are, it moved in center to center distance. SLowly, after 4-5 tries, It's dead on now. I tried the factory center to center measurement, but found it was to far. I run a high secondary belt height.
 

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Crash, if you are not comfortable with the methods others are using buy the tool if you need it. $100.00 compared to the good it will do is cheap. sure once you use the tool a few times you'll see how those other methods work.
 

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For the center-to-center (well, edge to edge, actually), I use the plastic tool that Dennis Kirk was clearancing on eBay for about $15 shipped. It's just like the Crankshop tool. The nice thing about it is you can quickly check alignment without taking the belt off.

You can also use calipers to find just the right socket that's exactly 16.5 mm wide and use that as a gauge between the two clutches.

Harbour Freight has pretty nice digital calipers for about $10 if you can catch them on sale. (that's what I use)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I use a 3/8" flatbar and a pair of 8" dial calipers from the old machine shop days.
Can get the alignment dead on with these.[/b]
Thanks everyone, i see 3/8 bar method best,BUT try finding a 3/8 bar in madison wi i looked at every hardware store and shop. i could not even find a 7/8th corase thread 2 inch bolt in this town.everything stops at 3/4 i even call a fastener shop, thought for shure they would have it, no,you have to be kiding me its AMERICAN.if anyone knows were i can buy one 3/8bar please let me no.thanks . i took to a guy to fix any way but still would like to find a bar,( i know i can get one in northwest indiana but 150 miles away)Thanks Dave
 
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