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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,

I have been using a different type of synth oil because Amsoil wasn't available in my area - But now it is !!!

What type are you guys all running, the "oil injector" type with the -43' pourpoint or the "Series 2000 racing" 2 stroke oil

Stupid question but hey, it's the first time I see the stuff in my area and both bottles say recommended for snowmobiles.

Also, on the Amsoil web page they say that you should run your oil out completely before changing because of possible additive incompatibility - is this true or is it over cautious.

Thanks
 

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I use the regular. The fellow I get it from called Amsoil & they didn't recommend the racing oil for trail use.
 

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i also use the regular amsoil,just run your oil down near the bottom of the tank and just add the amsoil,thats what i did it wont hurt anything,oil is a touchy subject lots of opinions on what brand is best,i havent had any problems with the amsoil so ill stick to it
 

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I use the regular injector oil.  I just carried a litre with me & ran the resevoir down low.  Just before the low oil light came on, I dumped in the Amsoil.  No problem.  Last year there was an Amsoil rep on one of these forums & this is what he said to do.  Worked for me.
 

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The regular Amsoil Synthetic will Work fine for you Madsledhead.  The one thing  I would strongly suggest is that if you are running amsoil, is too turn your oil injection pump down.  If you are unsure about this have it preformed by your dealer.  If you dont, because of Amsoil's excellent low pour temps you will foul plugs and gum up power valves.  Last year I adjusted my oil pump on the 02 800 GADE.  I changed it down from 32mm to 27mm with NO problems
 

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I've run the regular stuff in my last 7 sleds with no adjustments to anything and have had zero oil related problems.
 

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Maybe that why you had the " stinky smelly exhaust" Mighty RX1,  LOL.  When running the Amsoil in a sled,  you really should adjust the oil pump as  the amsoil flows alot better than the doo oil,(which the pump is set up for).  Otherwise oil is just being wasted and it will gum up plugs and vlaves.  I found out the hard way. BTW once you break in the new RX1,
Amsoil makes a 4 stroke oil that is perfect for your sled and will allow much easier start up. It is the 0w-40</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">PRODUCT DESCRIPTION
AMSOIL Formula 4-Stroke Synthetic Motor Oil is specially formulated for four-stroke recreational motors, including ATVs, outboard motors and motorcycles. It may also be used in cars and trucks. Its broad viscosity range makes it excellent for use in both hot and cold temperature extremes.

Resists High Temperature Vaporization
[/b][/quote] from amsoil site. I ran it in my ATV and found that it would actually start in -30 instead of just clicking. It has a pour point of   -60F


AMSOIL 0W-40 AFF
 

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I have a case of 0w-40 ready and waiting, I run it currently in my quad.  I am however concerned with the RX-1, according to my dealer, Yamaha doesn't recommend synthetic. I have to find out why.  I think they may be concerned about break in.  If you put synthetic in too soon, the rings will take longer to seat.  I think I'll at least put about 500 miles on her before I switch.  I did call amsoil and told them what my dealer said and the guy didn't have a clue as to why they wouldn't recommend synthetic.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the quick response!

I will take the oil setting into consideration, but I am already lower than stock with my current synth. so I will probably leave it the same.

( Lucky for me I have a fiber Optic boriscope now and can inspect the crank and piston bearings without disassembly&#33
 

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Mighty RX1 I agree i would run REG oil for the first 500 miles. You want your rocket to break in right. If done right that motor should last for thousands of miles
 I am dooing the same thing right now with my kawi 650 I am almost at 500 miles. After that im gonna run the Amsoil high performance 10W-40 motorcyle oil for Vtwins and then onto the 0W-40 for the dead of winter

Madsledhead sounds like your good to go, and with your handy surgeons tool you can preform orthoscopic exploratory surgery any time you want?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks,

It the best tool we bought for the shop, you would not believe how small inspection hatches gearbox manufacturors are installing lately on industrial equipment. Some companies stopped putting inspection hatches altogether - good luck inspecting bearings, performing axial/radial tests on these!
 

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I would tend to disagree with using regular over synthetic oil for break in. My opinion is that its the most important time to run synthetic when theres additional friction and load on parts wearing in.  With more and more auto mfgs using synthetic as the factory fill it only makes sense that it does not effect proper break in and is nothing more than an old wives tale that should be filed with the ones where people swear their engine leaks and or burns excessive amounts of oil when they tried synthetic. Never had a bad experience with synthetic no matter what the mileage on an engine.  Rick.
 

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My new kawi 650 v-twin was so tight from the factory that i would not dare run amsoil untill breakin is OVER.   Applying even more than half throttle during the first 10 hours can cause serious damage to the engine.  It would NEVER breakin and seat the rings properly.  Now that it is broken in i am switching to amsoil this week. NOTE: The power level had steadily increased during breakin.

Synthetic oil WIL not make an engine leak oil.  It will just leak more if there is already leaks present.  The same with a tired old engine with worn valves  and rings will use more if switched to synthetic.  It cannot repair damage that is already done
 

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Im sorry, I have to disagree with your comment ZR.

You need the added friction of regular oil during breakin.  It allows the engine to break in faster so you can go about driving normal sooner.

Using syntectic during breakin will not allow the rings to seat as fast, Not allow the rings to properly polish the cylinderwalls and wont allow your engine to come together like the manufactor has planned.
 

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I have to agree with zr sled as i see no reason to use dinasour juice in a 2 stroke. I allways use amsoil from new or rebuilt engines and it seats the rings better imo. And its a proven fact that synthetic oil seals the rings better and you can actually gain psi over dinasour juice too. also the initial start up on any engine new or old is the time you get the wear with regular oil. The only time i would not use synthetic is the first oil change on a new 4 stroke...because all you do is run it for a short time and drain the oil to get any casting flash and all the assembly lube out..and why waste good amsoil for that. after that its synthetic for the break in .
 

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You should not use synthetic oil for breakin becasue all engines need a certain emount of friction for proper break in.  Synthetics eliminate almost all friction so your engine will never really break in properly and problems will haunt you down the road.  

In a 2 stroke i use synthetic right from the start only buring the factroy oil that came with the machine.
 

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Let me change that... allways break in your engines with synthetic. Every year we break in our grass drag sleds with synthetic on the dyno and with the snowx sleds its out on the test track with synthetic and on the pipe too also i have yet to see an oil related failure or hear of one. engines are made to spec and we are talking mils of oil film so why use crappy oil ? And the only reason why you do not see more synthetic from the manufactures in new cars and sleds etc...is because of cost.... not the wifes tale of ring seat.
 

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Its not an old wives tale.

In a new 4 stroke engine you have special lubricant that is on the bearing, crankshaft, and camshaft called molybdenum disulfide.  You need this for proper break in.  This stuff will clog filters so its nessesarry to change filter on first oil change asap.  

However auto manufactors design the breakin procedures becasue they have tested this procedures time and time again.  They use the lubricants on all the parts so that when running pertrolium based oil the engine will break in which in there specs and time frame (Normally 5000km for a car probably less for a bike engine.)  

The fact that all engine component builders and most mechanics will tell you not to use is a good enough reason for me.  You talk as if synthetics are the same a petro so just use them.  The fact is the Synthetics are a much better oil with almost zero friction properties,  This doest breakin an engine properly but will keep your car going forever.
 

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MachZ, Many engine rebuilders no longer use Moly due to the fact it doesn't mix with oil and is somewhat prone to blocking oil passages expecially when clearances are tight. If an engine is properly primed before fire up it has instant lubrication making a product such as Moly do more harm than good. Your argument about rings not seating in is long out of date. Rings now seat in a fraction of the time old iron rings took and do not require or want the type of grind em in approach the iron ones did. Synthetic oil will not effect proper break in but will ensure even more miles before failure. The only reason the factory doesn't use synthetic in all new engines is based on cost only.
 

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Well I just got off the phone with the AMSOIL tech department.  They said to run REGULAR DINO oil for the first 4-5 hundred miles.HMMMM wonder why they said that.  He told me that an engine will still breakin with amsoil but it will take a very long time.  So their advice was to run the reg for proper ring seating then switch to synthetic.  Doo you think if it did,nt matter that they would not just try to get me to put THEIR oil in right away. I am also waiting on a response from bombardier and will post their feedback when it arrives.
 
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