Snowmobile World banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
:withstupid: Just wondering how long everyone is getting out of thier drive clutches. My dealer says he is seeing 4000 miles before arms, pins, rollers, and bushings. Well I have had 3 new snomobiles in the last 5 years and have had clutch problems with all of them. 97 T-Cat at 500 miles, clutch exploded through hood and belly pan. 2000 ZR 500 at 1300 miles clutch busted in into 3 pieces ruined weekend. 2002 800 cce at 1900 miles weights begining to touch spider. At least this one I cought before I was loading it into the back of my truck on saturday morning with all of my buddies scoffing at me and asking why do you keep buying Arctic Scrap. Each time my dealer says " hummmmm this is the first one of these I've seen, I beter call the factory"
Just wondering if I am just hard on equipment or what.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,357 Posts
I've never had trouble with a clucth exploding. On my 00zr500 my clutch had to be rebuilt at about 1000miles which seemed early but my dealer said is common for certain engine sizes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
What is involved in re-building a clutch??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,960 Posts
Originally posted by SNOWBLOWN@Nov 3 2002, 06:39 PM
:withstupid: Just wondering how long everyone is getting out of thier drive clutches. My dealer says he is seeing 4000 miles before arms, pins, rollers, and bushings. Well I have had 3 new snomobiles in the last 5 years and have had clutch problems with all of them. 97 T-Cat at 500 miles, clutch exploded through hood and belly pan. 2000 ZR 500 at 1300 miles clutch busted in into 3 pieces ruined weekend. 2002 800 cce at 1900 miles weights begining to touch spider. At least this one I cought before I was loading it into the back of my truck on saturday morning with all of my buddies scoffing at me and asking why do you keep buying Arctic Scrap. Each time my dealer says " hummmmm this is the first one of these I've seen, I beter call the factory"
Just wondering if I am just hard on equipment or what.
What did they have to do to your 800 for the wts touching the spider. My 800 has about 1500 on it. As soon as I get a puller its coming off. Gonna go thru it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
78 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
:angry: Well they as refering to the "Cat Master" mechanic, won't be touching my sled anymore. I will be doing all of my own work because the warranty is almost up and I don't think they know anymore about the problems that I have been seeing that I do. All I did to my clutch is replace the weight bushings and the pins. The weights just started to touch the spider and only wore in a few thousandthsand I think it will be fine. I also Sanded down the flat spots on the cam arms and balanced them out. Another interesting note is the actual weight of the 70.5 gram cam arm is 70.9 grams. I weighed them on 2 different scales and both said 70.9. Not a big deal just something to note when recalibrating the clutches. Just the same old song and dance with A/C, poor attention to detail on their products, and horse shi** drive clutches.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Hey snowblown, I hear ya. I ride about 4,000 miles a year and 3 clutches per year. I to get the same **** from every AC dealer I talk to. The key is to replace the bushings as soon as they are slightly worn. You will have to buy a clutch puller, but it is a fairly quick and easy job. It is a pain, but last year was the first that my polaris buddies didn't have to pull me off the trail.

Good luck, snowsyd
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,960 Posts
That's all I was hoping to do was replace the bushings. This must be why my Brother in law does his every 1500 miles religiously. Just didn't know if there was something I was missing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
you have to take the clutch apart. then lift the weights by hand. if their is an side to side play then the bushings need replacing. it can be a very fine line sometimes, but it always better to put new ones in if you are not sure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
I replace mine about every 1000 miles now. I let my last sled go too long on one set of bushings and had the weights digging into the spider. It is really easy and inexpensive maintenance which will prevent spending a lot on a new clutch. By replacing the bushings, shims, and pins so often I never get any flat spots in the weights so I don't have to replace them. Buy a clutch puller and the rest is very easy. You shouldn't have any trouble.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
4000 miles is way off, must be those new unobtainium clutch parts. :D

In my experience 1500mi seems to be about the limit for the pins/bushings/shims in a zr 600. After that they like to dig into the spider, you loose performance, sometimes you can hear a little rattle at or just off idle and eventually it will grenade. I would assume that higher torque/hp mills will be harder on those parts and would need to be replaced sooner.

Sorry to hear about your bad luck with drive clutches.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Same story here, my spider broke apart at 1500 miles on my ZR600. Bushings and pins were worn but didn't seem to be touching the spider yet. The week before it blew an X-Cat Master Mechanic replaced the primary spring for me but said the clutch would be fine the rest of the season! It didn't last 100 miles.! My advise too would be to buy a "good" clutch puller, not one of the $20 piece of junks and change the worn parts regularly. I first bought the $20 kimpex puller (cause I didn't know any better) and the damn thing threaded itself into the crank. I though I was sold the wrong puller but it was the right one. Now I have an EPI puller that works great, popped both my clutches right off. Good luck to all the future clutch experts!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
757 Posts
I need to get a puller. It might be a good thing to list which ones to stay away from and which ones are considered good.

Thanks...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
315 Posts
Don't mess with the aftermarket pullers. Spend the 30$ and buy the one from cat. You won't be sorry. Don't forget to add some grease to the end of the puller shaft. The clutches come off alot easier if you to this.
 
A

·
Guest
Joined
·
0 Posts
Originally posted by IRON WILL@Nov 5 2002, 01:34 PM
Don't mess with the aftermarket pullers. Spend the 30$ and buy the one from cat. You won't be sorry. Don't forget to add some grease to the end of the puller shaft. The clutches come off alot easier if you to this.
and a big hammer to swing at it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
113 Posts
Originally posted by IRON WILL@Nov 5 2002, 06:34 PM
Don't mess with the aftermarket pullers. Spend the 30$ and buy the one from cat. You won't be sorry. Don't forget to add some grease to the end of the puller shaft. The clutches come off alot easier if you to this.
My local dealers wouldn't sell me one and the guy who had them at the snowmobile show sold out so I was stuck with aftermarket. I recommend the EPI (erlandsonperformance.com) puller. Looks just like the one the dealer uses. Here is a link to their tips and torque spec page:

Clutch Removal Tips/Specs
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top