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I have a 2005 600HO MXZ adrenaline w/ 144 picks that I've ridden for about 2 years. I want to shake things up a bit with a better holeshot. I know almost nothing about clutching except what I've read. I know it can involve many different factors rider's weight, trail conditions, suspension setups. I would like some basic knowledge on changing the setup my sled has. I've been looking into springs and if I've been informed correctly this will make my clutch engage at a higher rpm, will this help my holeshot? Any information would be great... I'm trying not lose tons of top end or go broke.
 

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the most satisfaction i have gotten was to buy a steeper degree helix which will let your machine shift faster. a higher engagement or a gear change will only leave you sitting there spinning. hope you find what works. kevin
 

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I have a 2005 600HO MXZ adrenaline w/ 144 picks that I've ridden for about 2 years. I want to shake things up a bit with a better holeshot. I know almost nothing about clutching except what I've read. I know it can involve many different factors rider's weight, trail conditions, suspension setups. I would like some basic knowledge on changing the setup my sled has. I've been looking into springs and if I've been informed correctly this will make my clutch engage at a higher rpm, will this help my holeshot? Any information would be great... I'm trying not lose tons of top end or go broke.[/b]
I know one thing it wont help you gas mileage, i had a guy in arbor vitia wis.set up my 96 xcr600sp,he put a differant spring and some other stuff to it and it ideled about 3500 and i think the take off was 6500 when the sled idles it drops back down to stock idle. higher rpm could cause track slipage, but your studed, my was and it come off the ground at take off and stayed up for about 50/60 feet. Crash dummy
 

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My Problem was weight transfer to the back. I set my rear spring on softest setting, my blocks with the thinnest part facing rearward. If you still need more then remove the pads behind the blocks (8mm nut&bolt). If you are hooking up good & you still want more then get a clutch kit. :D
 

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I have a 2005 600HO MXZ adrenaline w/ 144 picks that I've ridden for about 2 years. I want to shake things up a bit with a better holeshot. I know almost nothing about clutching except what I've read. I know it can involve many different factors rider's weight, trail conditions, suspension setups. I would like some basic knowledge on changing the setup my sled has. I've been looking into springs and if I've been informed correctly this will make my clutch engage at a higher rpm, will this help my holeshot? Any information would be great... I'm trying not lose tons of top end or go broke.[/b]
I hate giving clutching advise. Only you know the personality of your machine. If you want to keep it real simple though my advice to you would be to drop one tooth on the top gear for starters. Top gear has 22 teeth. Drop to a 21 tooth top gear. It uses the same chain so no worries and it's a cheap upgrade. I paid about $25 for a 21t top gear at my Doo dealer. For the record I actually gained a few mph in the top end by gearing down. I was now able to use more of the clutch ratio and got higher track speed because of it.
Inside your primary you have a spring, weighted pins in the tra arms, and of course ramps. Leave the ramps alone but get yourself a set of adjustable pins from Dalton. Remember that flyweight determines rpms. Need more rpm then remove weight...need less then add weight. Dalton manufactures several different kits for the pins. The stainless ones are great and the kit I have does go up to 25 grams. Which is alot.
I would also change the primary spring. My 04 REV 600 H.O. had a 160/290 primary spring. I then jumped the start force of the spring up to 200 but left the finish force the same. So I used a 200/290 spring. This bumped the engagment up a few hundred rpms and I found I was also over revving just a little. I added a little bit more weight in the pins and then it was perfect.
With this set up a 54/44 helix works well. I'm not sure what your 05 has in it for a stock helix but on my 04 it used a 47/44. The 54/44 worked very well.
This was a decent set up for me and my sled. However there was lots left on the table. I tried different set upos and even went to a Hyper Lite roller secondary that was amazing but a little finicky and suddenly developed a bad habit of cracking. I now am running a clutch kit from Dynamo Joe over at Northern Catalyst. It's a great kit that needs very little tuning and the change in attitude from a stock sled to what I have now is like night and day. It's not the worlds best drag set up. But it's one of the best trail set ups that gives great acceleration and backshift all in one package.
All of this is uselss though if you don't tune the suspension to use the set up. I'm running a 1 5/8 Sno X track and have played around with the suspension enough that it just plain hooks and hang on because it's giddy up time.
Here's Joey's website:
Click right here to increase your clutching IQ
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I hate giving clutching advise. Only you know the personality of your machine. If you want to keep it real simple though my advice to you would be to drop one tooth on the top gear for starters. Top gear has 22 teeth. Drop to a 21 tooth top gear. It uses the same chain so no worries and it's a cheap upgrade. I paid about $25 for a 21t top gear at my Doo dealer. For the record I actually gained a few mph in the top end by gearing down. I was now able to use more of the clutch ratio and got higher track speed because of it.
Inside your primary you have a spring, weighted pins in the tra arms, and of course ramps. Leave the ramps alone but get yourself a set of adjustable pins from Dalton. Remember that flyweight determines rpms. Need more rpm then remove weight...need less then add weight. Dalton manufactures several different kits for the pins. The stainless ones are great and the kit I have does go up to 25 grams. Which is alot.
I would also change the primary spring. My 04 REV 600 H.O. had a 160/290 primary spring. I then jumped the start force of the spring up to 200 but left the finish force the same. So I used a 200/290 spring. This bumped the engagment up a few hundred rpms and I found I was also over revving just a little. I added a little bit more weight in the pins and then it was perfect.
With this set up a 54/44 helix works well. I'm not sure what your 05 has in it for a stock helix but on my 04 it used a 47/44. The 54/44 worked very well.
This was a decent set up for me and my sled. However there was lots left on the table. I tried different set upos and even went to a Hyper Lite roller secondary that was amazing but a little finicky and suddenly developed a bad habit of cracking. I now am running a clutch kit from Dynamo Joe over at Northern Catalyst. It's a great kit that needs very little tuning and the change in attitude from a stock sled to what I have now is like night and day. It's not the worlds best drag set up. But it's one of the best trail set ups that gives great acceleration and backshift all in one package.
All of this is uselss though if you don't tune the suspension to use the set up. I'm running a 1 5/8 Sno X track and have played around with the suspension enough that it just plain hooks and hang on because it's giddy up time.
Here's Joey's website:
Click right here to increase your clutching IQ[/b]
Thanks Joe had a wealth of information
 
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