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Discussion Starter #1
I own a '98 ZRT 600 that I bought new in '99.  This was my very first sled that I have owned.  In the last 7 months I have paid my sled off and now I am looking into adding some performance mods.  I havent had any trouble with my sled except for last season when my chokes were freezing.  Anyway, what should I do first?  My track isnt studded and I know that I should stud it.  How many should I go?  I live in Northern Michigan and I do mostly trail riding.  I have heard that too little can ruin the track but too many can effect performance.  So whats the safe side?  144.... 196?  Other then adding gas, injection oil, and scheduled maintenance on the sled I really have no clue what is available for other parts.  Any suggestions???
 
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Start off with putting in 144 studs, but make a pattern to where you can add 48 more if needed.  Then I would put in a clutch kit, Goodwin make a good one for the ZRT.  Then go to V-Force reeds.  That would give you a jump start.  Good luck.
 

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I run 144 in mine and it works good.  Unless you're super aggressive, 144 should be fine.  I've also heard good things about the Tail Twister Clutch kit.  I would do the clutching and the studs first, see how it goes, then decide if you want to do the reeds or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
As far as studs are concerned, what kind should I get?  How long should they be?  My track is original and still in great shape.  My sled has 1450 miles on it.  Not bad for a '98
 
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I would go with Woody's gold diggers but I am not sure the depth of your track.  The miles arent bad, I have 1200 on my 96.
 

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Studs is a good first "mod".  Your stock track is either .75" or .85".  Regardless, I would go with a MINIMUM of 144 Gold diggers down the center and get at least 1" studs.  I run 168 1.15" studs in my 600 and love the hook up.  Haven't had any bends/breaks yet....
Next get yourself set up for your altitude.  There is a ton to be gained just by setting everything up correctly, ie carbs in sync, skis/clutches/track aligned, correct jetting, clean carbs, clean clutches, good belt, and good plugs can make a big difference!  You want to make sure that all of those things are good to go before you even start to tinker with reeds, pipes, and clutch tuning so you have a good "starting point".
AFTER all those things have been done, then you can either buy a clutch "kit"(hate calling it that)that has been put together by someone else(ie PSI, Goodwin, Black Magic, D&D)or you can get your own setup(much better if you know what you are doing or have someone to help) Best bet would be to add heavier weights, steeper multi angle helix, stock secondary spring, stiffer primary spring, and gear it up or down to your riding style.  There is of course more to it than that, but just an example.... The posibilies are endless!

Hope this helps get you started.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Any of you guys have trouble with plugs fouling?  When I bought my sled it ran great for the first 3 years and then I took it to a different place to have it preseasoned and after that point it started fouling plugs.  I took it back and they clain they cant find anything wrong with it.  I took it somewheres else and they say that the oil pump was turned up too high and it was jetted wrong.  The only problem is that after they worked on it my chokes started sticking.  Actually it was to the point to where I couldnt move my choke lever without breaking it.  I took it back they charged me $60 dollars to fix it and it still did it.  I went back and complained and they told me that my cover wasnt good enough.  What I have is a stock Cat cover.  I then told them that maybe I needed a ski doo cover.  They didnt like that.  So I ended up pulling the chokes and cleaning them and I didnt have as much trouble but still had some.  Anyway, before this becomes a novel, I wanted to say that ever since that point, it has been a little fussy with plugs.  Anything I can try or do??  Thanks
 

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I had the exact same sled up until I wrecked it last winter.  What a great sled.  My freinds said it was the best running stock 600 they've seen.  Anyhow, I had very little problems with mine in two years.  Plugs were usually fine.  The only thing to check is the carb boots that go from the air box to the carb.  They usually just slip over the carb.  These boots tend to dry rot and crack and get loose over the carb.  This can cause all kinds of problems.  Replace the boots with new ones, and I used plastice wire zip ties around the carb to hold them on tight.  I found out on a trip that I had this problem because every now and then when I hit a drift or deep snow, it would bog out, die, and I would have to wait a good while before it would start again.  I was sucking snow dust and other junk around these boots into the carbs.  Oh yeah, I had 144 picks in mine.  Just right for me.  It made it safe on ice, hooked well out of the hole, and she still had enough left in the bends to break the tail loose if I wanted, it was just a sqeeze away.  Man I loved that sled.  I'm swichting to the 900 twin.  I'm sure I'll like it too, but I'd like it more if it was a 900 tripple of the same weight. LOL  Good luck, you got a good sled there!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I just called a local snowmobile parts store to check on prices on studs.  They told me that they stock a brand called, 'fast track, top gun 2' studs.  I havent really heard of these but then again I dont read on studs every other day.  I asked him about the Woodys and he said they can get them.  Anyway, he claims 144 of these studs (1 inch) would run $350.00 .  Is this a normal price?  I thought it was kinda high.  Also, the plugs I use are NGK.  Same ones I have been using since day 1.  There are two plugs I can use and I cant remember which one is which but the one is suppose to not foul as easy.  I have the same luck on both.  If I remember correctly, the one plug was something like BR9EYA.   Is there an online website that has new parts & accessories that show prices?? Kind of like Jegs or Summit but for sleds.
 

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First off, STAY AWAY from the Fast trac studs!  They bend and break off the carbide tips way to easily.  Heard nothing but bad things about them.  As for the price, it will probably run you around there to stud the track.  You can save allot by doing it yourself though.  Just make a template or buy one, get your studs, and get a track cutting bit that works best if you have access to an air compressor.  A regular drill will work, but it's hard on them.
For plugs, I have had good luck with the BR9ES and BR9EYA's.  EYA's are "supposed" to be an anti-foul plug, or at least harder to foul them.  Sounds like you need to either jet your sled down(run 330 or 340 mains) and/or one of your choke cable could be stuck and causing it to run rich.  I would slap some 340 mains in, get your carbs cleaned and syncronised, and put a fresh set of plugs in and wait and see what she does when the snow flies.
 
BTW, are all your plugs fouling out, or is it one or two?  If so, which plug(s) are fouling?  Have you checked piston wash?  That can tell you allot about what is going on.  Another posibility is that you are running rich in the mid range....  Let us know what you know and go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the reply.  As far as I know, the $350 was just for the studs.  When I called them I asked them if they sell them individually or as a package.  He said as a package and I said, how much for the 144 1 inch studs?  He did some adding and came up with the $350.  Maybe he meant installed to.  Gosh, I hope so.  So what do you think of Woodys?  As far as my plugs are concerned...  If I remember correctly, it was always the first plug that fouled.  First meaning on the left.  There for a while, when I would first start it up it would run a little then stop then I would start it again and the plug would be fouled.  Then I would put a new plug in it and it would run fine.  It was always the initial start that killed the plug.  When my chokes were sticking badly, I was fouling them all the time.  I just ordered a repair book for my sled and I will have to do some reading to find out what all I need to do to make sure its set right.  I hate taking it in because all I do is pay out $120 to have them look at it and it comes back running worse the previous.  errr....
 

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My dealer told me he usually prices studs at $1/ea for studs and $1/ea to install.  So $350 for 144 installed is pretty average.
 

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I spoke before I did the math, that does seam a little high.  I'm think it cost me $300 for 144 in my ZRT 600.
 

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If you have them install it for you, if will probably run you around $300.  If you do it yourself you can almost cut the cost in half.  A good weekend project.
 

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I have used woody's, sabre, and fast-trac studs. All trouble free. I currently have woody's on my wifes 95 cougar and no problems or worn studs, although it only has 1050 miles on it (kids tend to do that to you). I have a 99 zrt600 with the fast-trac studs. I have replaced a few but have also ridden in some very poor conditions. I have a 03 zr900 I am putting sabres in which is what I had on a 97 zr580. These I got from a guy on this board here. He is in MI and goes by the name of drewalt or Devin and is a high performance shop. Kevin
 

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I've always used Woodys and have had good luck with them.  I know some people would disagree though.  I always bought mine at Hay Days from a place that has a shop in Michigan for about $1.00/stud (with backers).  I would check around.  You should be able to find them alot cheaper than $350.  A couple sites to check - www.denniskirk.com , www.rvsports.com, www.jrgraham.com

My 96 will usually foul plugs the first couple of times I start it up in the fall (understandable being the engine was fogged).  Also, during season, you want the engine to be good and warm before taking off.  I jumped the gun once and fouled one.  If I have one complaint with my sled it would be the choke.  I've snapped 3-4 levers.  Maybe something's set wrong.
 
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