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Discussion Starter #1
So on the subject of regearing, how do you know if you've gotten to the point where your chain is too long? I realize there's a point where the tensioner won't go in anymore. I guess my question is, it is okay to go all the way in with the tensioner, or do you need to switch to a shorter chain before you get to that point? And if so, how do you know when? My Vmax manual actually has a gear and chain chart but I can't find anything from Polaris and when I called my local dealer Mt. Hood Polaris...well actually I started a whole different thread about that nightmare...short version: they don't know. This question is in general...but I'm specifically going to work on the 92 SKS which should have a 66 link chain in it now. I know a lot of you have worked on that chaincase over the years...any accumulated wisdom out there?
 

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journeyman sled/motorhead
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you should not have the tensioner all the way tight. it is not as efficient. on most doo's I think ,going down up top, it needs a shorter chain. but going up on the bottom may not, and is working the principle only about half the change though, in gear ratio. the doo race handbook.e chart. does poo have a race handbook?
 

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I believe a very very general rule of thumb with most but not all brands or models is that you can usually go up or down 1 tooth without having to change your chain. Beyond that it gets a little more critical.

Jeff
 

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Trailblazer is right , one ether way your safe. Alot of the times you can go two before needing a shorter chain. The one thing to watch for is ..you dont want a sharp bend around the top gear down to the tensioner. the straighter it is the better, less chance for binding and less rolling resistance.
Another thing is to think about is if your running a chain with the tensioner tight with not much room to adjust . What will you do when it stretches and you need more ?
On my SS I dropped 1 tooth on top and it does have a bit more of a bend for what I would like . I think if I went 2 i would need a shorter chain (might be just my model though).
I was thinking of going back to the stock gear and changing out the drives. This would give me the gear change and give me more clearance in the tunnnel for the big lug track to get the snow out to boot.

Just remember the less bend in the chain the faster and more efficient it will be.
IMO the best case scenerio would be to have your tensioner adjusted just a bit over half way and have your chain coming off the top gear at the 3-4 oclock position. If its wrapped round the gear to much and it loosens up on you it could turn into a ugly mess if it locks up . Your cost of a new chain just went from a 50 dollar exspense to a hundred or 2 for a new chain case and any other damage it did, not to mention what it could do to you running at a good clip when it lets go!!

mutt
 

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journeyman sled/motorhead
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like snowmutt said one tooth and it has more bend than he likes but. I can assure you guys being picky in thses areas pays big dividends on performance.
 

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You can not start with the chain tensioner all the way out , all chains well get lose after time. And it will jump or lock up on you .
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Here's a pic of where it's at now. Any comments?
 

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journeyman sled/motorhead
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I would like to see mine shorter than that.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Well here is the end result. At 18/39 it was weak on engagement and really sluggish pulling out in powder. My wife smokes the belt all the time because she is just not very aggressive on the throttle. I never have that problem on that sled, but oh well. I knew with the longtrack and deep lugs it needed more aggressive gearing, and that would take some load off the clutch. Here were are now at 16/40 with the 64 pitch chain. I probably could have kept the old chain but now I have a backup. I got the idea because I saw the owner's manual supplement for 1999 Polaris 500's, and it said the gearing for the 500 RMK is 17/41, so I figured that was what I should shoot for at least - I have the same track and same size engine. Well 40 was the biggest bottom gear I could find, its off an old arctic cat longtrack. I tried to order a 41 tooth 11 wide aftermarket gear from hiperf.com, but it was out of stock and they could not get any more. Got the used 40 tooth cheap as well as the used 16 tooth top gear and the chain for that matter. There is also a 15 tooth top gear I can get cheap if I still feel like it's still not enough torque. But I think it will be good like this. While I technically could find a patch of snow to test it on next week, I'm just going wait for hopefully mid October...
 

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journeyman sled/motorhead
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Well here is the end result. At 18/39 it was weak on engagement and really sluggish pulling out in powder. My wife smokes the belt all the time because she is just not very aggressive on the throttle. I never have that problem on that sled, but oh well. I knew with the longtrack and deep lugs it needed more aggressive gearing, and that would take some load off the clutch. Here were are now at 16/40 with the 64 pitch chain. I probably could have kept the old chain but now I have a backup. I got the idea because I saw the owner's manual supplement for 1999 Polaris 500's, and it said the gearing for the 500 RMK is 17/41, so I figured that was what I should shoot for at least - I have the same track and same size engine. Well 40 was the biggest bottom gear I could find, its off an old arctic cat longtrack. I tried to order a 41 tooth 11 wide aftermarket gear from hiperf.com, but it was out of stock and they could not get any more. Got the used 40 tooth cheap as well as the used 16 tooth top gear and the chain for that matter. There is also a 15 tooth top gear I can get cheap if I still feel like it's still not enough torque. But I think it will be good like this. While I technically could find a patch of snow to test it on next week, I'm just going wait for hopefully mid October...[/b]
much better IMHO. I must be sure to state that I run them correctly for performance reaseons not because I think it may cause a failure or problem.
 
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