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Originally posted by rvanderklok@Dec 14 2004, 08:45 PM
I use Shell synthetic chaincase oil from Canadian Tire. ($8 bottle) That's good for 2 fills. If you don't use a chain CASE oil, the oil can foam up too much inside the chaincase and POSSIBLY blow your seal. Also, before I put the chain case oil in, I always spray the chain with a high RPM chain oil. It comes in a spray can and is VERY sticky. That way it doesn't fly off the chain when it is spinning. I do this because if I EVER blow my chain case seal, I should be able to carefully (at lower RPM's) Limp the sled home without the chain drying out, heating up, and snapping. I have an older machine, so I ALWAYS have to be prepared for the worst! I think I break down every trip I take. lol
If you wanna know what a snapping chain is like.......it can be as minor as hearing a clunk and the machine just sitting there and not moving when you rev it up. or it can be as bad as the chain catching on the drive shaft binding it up and the machine comming to a dead stop. Or I've even seen snapped chains go through a chaincase and stripping the teeth off the gears causing about $400 damage.
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That sounds crazy!!!

As for spraying the chain down, Thats a good idea. Castrol Chaiunlube for dirt bikes would probably work well.

I just bought some Castrol Synthetic gear oil at Walmart: $5.47 CDN/L. Pretty fair price. And I havent even bought a new sled. Talk about the cart before the horse : )

Sometimes I use non-synthetic Castrol as it left over from chaning the gear oil in the VWs : )

Andrew
 

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This topic has seemed to create some good conversation regarding this issue, and all very interesting. I have to apologize for an innitial incorrect statement though (must have been drunk or something, kidding, LOL). The oil we put back in the Chaincase was indeed gear oil, but it was not a 90 weight oil for the reasons I mentioned previously (the thickness). Now I have myself a little confused as to what we actually put in regarding weight (it was no higher than an 80 though, poss a 70). Irregardless, very interesting comments regarding why and what types of oils everyone uses. And regarding the spray for the chain, that is a pretty good idea as well. Seems to add some additional protection the way it was explained. Thanks everyone for the replies
 

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Amsoil chaincase oil. Change it after every season.

However, my Dad's old Poo has a leak in the chaincase bearing. I needs topping off at every gas stop. We still use 80 weight gear lube in it but any oil is better than no oil.

I saw a test guy for AC out in Colorado that exploded a chain on a new machine. He had a spare chain but no oil. They ended up using ATF in it. And went back to tearing up the mountian.
 

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Do you think the oil inside of the chaincase stays at 0 - 32 degrees when your sleds warmed up and that chain is turning at those speeds? As you stated how thick 75 - 80 oil is at 0 degrees, how thin do you think your 40 - 50 oil is going to be at 100 degrees warmer up and being slung right off of that chain ? I would drain that and re fill it with manufacturer spec asap. That oil your mechanic put in is going to be like water when you are riding. It is suppose to be somewhat thick it's a gear type oil.
 

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Yamaha calls for same wt oil in the gear case (propeller) of boats. Its basically gears like we have in rear differentials in the truck...has to have 75w 90 or 80w 90
 
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