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Discussion Starter #1
I cant afford a new sled, so I have decided to manipulate my FIII 700 (98)w/mach 1 pipes, stingers, sc-10II 192 studs to ride a little better. I want to control the harsh nose dive into bumps, and get it a little faster. It has stock clutching, so here are solutions.

1  Lower front shocks an inch or so.
2. Revalve shocks for my weight.
3.  Install flex skis.
4. Install as many lighter weight nuts, bolts, other things as I can.
4. Clutch, it does not pull at all like my 97 mach. It has gr/bl, 286, solid 16 pins. I dont get that, it really dies off around 90 mph, but it does pull 7800???Belt???
5. Reeds
6. Pipes, maybe jaws.

I can do all of the fabrication, just hope chassiss holds up. What are your concerns w/CK3? I only dislike the nose dive, setup right, I think they corner w/the best (w/ sc10II). I realy want to "build" my own beast, and quiet the triple naysayers, so your input would help.
 

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try pulling the rear suspension down a little, prolly help out in the nose dive area and low the CG a little.     as for clutching, check with a doo dealer for stock clutching on mach 1's
there are a lot of ways to get rid of weight on the ck3's   but all require cutting and gutting.      could put a kevlar hood on, save about 6-8 pounds right there.
 

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a widening kit doesn't make it any lighter but it makes it feel lighter and corner better, best thing for a form-3 is jaws pipes and porting extra hp always makes a sled feel lighter!
 

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Take my advice on this.  

1. Get the mach 1 stinger pipes. (triple pipes)
2. Get it studded 192.
3. GET THE PRESISION SKIS (Dual Carbide)

If you could only get one out of the three it would be the skis.  They change the machines handling in a big way.  A good way.  You wont belive its the same machine.  

Also dont lower the front shocks.  keep the sled up.  It gives a better ride and you can be a bit rougher.  I wish my mach had a higher front end all the time.
 

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Here is my advice.

I have a 99MachZ that I also want to imrpove in the handling department. I love the triple, and I have plenty of power with a 1025 Crankshop kit, but the handling, leaves a little to be desired.  I just got done installing an SC10II out of a 2001 MXZ, with HPG racing shocks. I am hoping this will help in the rearend.  Next year, I plan on installing a BLT front suspension kit and a set of the new dual runner skis.

If I had your sled, I would do the following
1) Install a set of Dynoport Pipes, and clutch kit from dynoport
2) Install the BLT widening kit
3) Install a set of good skis

From what I experienced on a CK3 chassis, is that improving handling, and increasing HP will make your sled feel much lighter. I wouldn't spend the money on lightweight parts, if your keeping it on the trail. Good luck
 

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hi there: yeah your sled has soft front shocks(coils) if u can go to a salvage yard and just get a set off of a newer machz. get a set a plastic skis. a widening kit would help.thats alot of studs your running. has to slow u down and give u the fealling of being heavy.a freind of mine just put those precision skis on with the double runners . he hates them they grab way to much makes the sled feel like its plowing. i could mabe get u a deal on thoes...he tried my 2000 with the easy steers and is trying to find a set.do u already have the mach1 pipes on it? they will give u top end speed if set up right. i had a set of crank shops on my stock machz and it did not improve my sled. (on asphalt with a hitech timming and speed system). the stock pipes and a b and b eleminater can works better.u will prob. lose hp with the tripple stinger. on the dyno we have seen 5 hp on the mach1 with the stock pipes and the b and b stinger. go with v force ,bore the carbs out. all cheap ways to make it go. concentrate on the chassie set up make shure it rolls realy nice. remember studs are weight. and approx. 1mph for every pound of studs. not weight but rotating mass. hope this helps a little ..........just my 3$   lol
 

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With the Mach 1 pipes I would think you should spin it at 8300 (actually 8500 rpm on your tach as Doo tachs usually read 200 rpm high at peak).
 

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In the rear suspention department I would install the A.D. Bolvin couplers before I would blow big bucks on a SC-10ll.
I did this to mine along with tighting the ACM nut all the way and it made a 100% difference in the way it handles and rides
It takes corners like it was on rails and has just enough ski lift for full weight transfer when drag racing.
Try a set of HPG shocks off a 99 or newer MachZ for the front, their 2" shorter.
 

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I have a nice pair of front shocks with springs off a 00 Flll if you need them.
 

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The ck3 is actually very similar to the zx chassis. Losing weight is probably where I'd focus my attention. If you're going to run triple pipes, go aftermarket.

Personally, I'd stay with stock length shocks. I spend my time in the ditches, though, when there's snow. And I'd shop around for that sc10-II or III. I'd even consider going 136", if I were you.
 

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"I wasnt going to lower shocks, I am going to lower their mount position on chassis to raise nose up."

Doh!

Not sure I'd go that route, either.  


The 700 (FIII) had a longer shock. Maybe if ya went a little wider?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I wasnt going to lower shocks, I am going to lower their mount position on chassis to raise nose up.
 

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Changing the mounting position might cause a major change in handling.  I would just look for a pair of F111 shocks.  Or aftermarket shocks made for the F111.  Im not sure if there are anyother parts needed for that to work.
 
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