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I've got an '06 Ranger with a Class II hitch. I've never had a problem pulling my 16' boat or a two place open trailer with Polaris sleds. I'm about to get an '07 Ranger. My question is:

Is there a reason to upgrade to a Class III hitch? The big question, what does a two-place open trailer weight with two sleds on it?
 

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Not sure what the Class II would consist of. Step bumper? For the difference, I'd just get the III. Then you don't have to worry about it. Some of those packages come with a HD pre wired pkg.? I'm sure we've all seen those step bumpers all twisted to $##t.

Loaded 2 place, would be surprised if it ever went 2000 lbs.
 

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A class II is good for up to 3,500 lbs, you should be safe, LOL. In our situation we have a 3,300lbs camper, stock weight. It ain't stock. It probably exceeds the 3,500lbs limit of the class II, so we have a class III hitch. Basically, if you're weight doesn't exceed 3,000 lbs, you have no reason to upgrade. Unless you need a new hitch, then it doesn't hurt to go up one level anyway; over-kill is safer than just-enough, lol. Let's say your trailor is 1,200lbs and your sleds combined also weigh 1,200lbs. That's 2,400lbs. Or, even if your trailor did weigh 2,000lbs, that would be 3,200lbs, still within the limits of a class II. Upgrading to a class III hitch could mean adding up to an extra 300lbs of over-kill. But that depends on the weight of your trailor. It should have specs with it somewhere, figure out what they are and how much weight you're actually hauling. :)
 

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the receiver for a class 2 is not as popular as a class 3 and up. the class 3 & 4 hitches have a 2 inch drawbar making a few more available hook-ups available. the class 2 is a 1 1/4 inch drawbar with less uses.
 

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the receiver for a class 2 is not as popular as a class 3 and up. the class 3 & 4 hitches have a 2 inch drawbar making a few more available hook-ups available. the class 2 is a 1 1/4 inch drawbar with less uses.[/b]
He already has a class II though, so unless he's needing a replacement, I'd say he's fine. Provided: he's keeping the same equipment. If you're already using it, and it's not broken, and doesn't need to be upgraded (even if upgrading is easier than replacing) why replace it?

However, if you're looking at hauling something else and you need a new hitch anyway, you're better off with a class III.
 

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Actually, the camper I'm talking about is in my avator pic. It's a two axil 18ft camper. Doesn't look it though, I had the lense set to focus on the Fusion, everything behind it kinda has a "bubble" effect because of it. :)
 

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You'll need a wiring adapter to use a class III with a smaller trailor though, but I think it comes with it? Not sure... don't quote me on that, lol.
 

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He already has a class II though, so unless he's needing a replacement, I'd say he's fine. Provided: he's keeping the same equipment. If you're already using it, and it's not broken, and doesn't need to be upgraded (even if upgrading is easier than replacing) why replace it?[/b]
he's getting a new truck. get the truck with the trailer tow package.

You'll need a wiring adapter to use a class III with a smaller trailor though, but I think it comes with it? Not sure... don't quote me on that, lol.[/b]
it comes with it even without the package.
 

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it comes with it even without the package.[/b]
Then my dad got scamed by the guys who installed his class III wiring for him. Because they removed the stock fitting, and he simply had the one hookup. He then had to plug in an adapter into the class III wiring for hualing smaller trailors, such as utility trailors (the ones with the 3 male, 1 female prongs; the larger trailors have the round plug for electronic braking and the likes) :)
 

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Myself I would go with the class III. There might be that day when you need to tow something bigger.[/b]
not just that, you can find a class 3 drawbar almost anywhere. find a class 2
 

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if you need a class 3

get a bigger truck
 

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<<<if you need a class 3 get a bigger truck>>>

I'd agree if he was going to be working at type III max specs. though I don't think that's the case here. I was suggesting that he go this way, and I think maybe Paul and others were too, for convenience, and the slight (if any) difference in cost. If ordering new, I think the trailering package usually makes a lot of sense too.

Edit:<<<Two sleds and trailer about 1400 pounds , I thought.>>>
You might find a combo this light, but add a spare, some fuel in the sleds, some snow packed up in the tunnels/suspensions, and betting you'll find that number pretty conservative. My single place aluminum Triton trailer is over 200 lbs. (235?)
 

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Go for the class 3.
I put a class 2 on my Isuzu because I thought that would be all I would need. Well, it's a pain. Try and borrow a draw-bar if you need to tow something unexpectedly. Try and buy one with a different rise or drop. It's just so hard to find a draw bar for a class 2 that they make no sense.
When I put a hitch on my Ranger it was a class 3, and now I even put 2" recievers on the quads. Way more convienent.
 

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I would also go with the class III just for the convenience of it. Easy to find receivers and I'll bet most of your friends will also have the 2 inch receiver so borrow a different sized ball will be easy.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for all of the comments. I looked at a few trucks on Friday, some of which had tow packages with a factory installed Class III hitch. Hopefully I can talk 'em into the upgrade for free.
 

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Thanks for all of the comments. I looked at a few trucks on Friday, some of which had tow packages with a factory installed Class III hitch. Hopefully I can talk 'em into the upgrade for free.[/b]
Good luck! :thumbsup:
 

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Thanks for all of the comments. I looked at a few trucks on Friday, some of which had tow packages with a factory installed Class III hitch. Hopefully I can talk 'em into the upgrade for free.[/b]
buy a dodge and I will get you ep pricing and the hitch and other options don't get much cheaper than that. :whistling:
 
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