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Discussion Starter #1
My first thread here.

I have a 2002 Yamaha SRX 700. One of three carbs are working fine. The left two are not doing well. I have spark and fuel. I just took my sleds out for the winter and I figured the carbs just need cleaning.
I took the carb rack out and need to clean them up. But I would like the right way to do this. the sled ran fine up till taking it out of storage.
Can I just tak the parts out and clean them with carb cleaner?
What about the needle, what is the right way to clean the jet? Can I stick a small needle throught the hole? Or this a bad thing to do?

Any help would be great. I did a search and I have not come up with anything good. I am not replacing the carbs, only cleaning them.

Thanks
Aquatic
 

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Work on only one carb at a time. This way if you forget how something should be put back together you have the others as reference-
Before removing your Idle and airscrew count the number of turns it takes to lightly seat them.
Write this information down for reassembly purposes.
1- remove carb from sled
2- remove needle and slide (be careful with the needle and plastic spacer)
3- remove bowl from carb
4- remove float
5- remove needle
6- remove pilot jet
7- remove airscrew
8- remove idle screw
9- remove main jet
10- place all the parts in a small jar of cleaner if dirty
11- use a tooth brush to clean the jets and screws

12- clean the carb body itself with compressed air, brake cleaner and a toothbrush.
If you have the green goo of death in the bowl keep scrubbing until spotless.
spray the carb and use air as needed to make carb look like new.
No drill bits or power tools!!!!!!!!!! to clean holes. A sewing needle or stickpin will suffice.

When your satisfied its clean-
Clean it again-

Since your carbs and airbox are removed, clean up all that oil and crud laying in the belly pan and tidy up those wires and hoses.
You can use (NON-CHLORINATED only) brake cleaner but try to keep it away from the rubber items. The reason I say non-chlorinated is because it’s not as harsh on rubber and plastic as the good chlorinated cleaners. In addition if you are a tree hugger the environment will appreciate it.


Reassemble-

Once done, remove the belt and clean your clutches with brake or electric parts cleaner and compressed air. Check your chain case oil and tensioner, adjust your track, replace any worn idler wheels and or bearings, and give the sled a major once over.

(These are only basics and should be done yearly!)
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks
Very nice write up.

I already bought a gallon of carb and parts cleaner, so that should help out too.

I already replace my slidders, and had to remove the whole suspension to do so. It wouldn't come off through the track holes. Not fun, but its done and I checked over all the wheels and greased it up right.

thanks I will clean carbs this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
This has become a bigger job then I thought, and we just got 7-8 inchs of fresh snow.


Ok I only took the bottom part of the carb off and cleaned that by leaving in fresh Carb cleaner.
The needle was only 1 full turn so I made that 1.5 out. The jet, was snug, it looks like it had to stay that way, or the tube holding it was lose. Is 1.5 out for the needle ok.

I did do one thing bad, I took off the float and pin too. I did not relize the piece holding the float wasn't secure. When I blew off the carbs the copper piece went flying. I did find it though.


So I only cleaned up the bottom and left the top of the carb intacked.


My question is the needle, does it sound right that it should be 1.5 turns out and the jet it snug????

Any help would be great. I will try and finish it tonight.

Thanks
 
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