I hope someone can help me out? I have a 95 Ski-Doo, it is in good shape, but the motor has what I think is oxidation on it. What works good to clean this up or make it look new again? Thanks in advance
Nothings says "I love you" more to your sweetheart than a good and complete engine detail!
Do what I do,
Remove the engine from the chassis. This will give you a great chance to get to all the hidden areas of the sled.
In the engine area with the motor removed, I use an Industrial degreaser called A202, the company is called "safe-solve" Spray the area you want to clean and let it sit for a few seconds, then run a rag along where you sprayed. The grease should lift out. Most of the steering components can be polished using a steel wool type of material, like "Bulldog" As for the exhaust components, they may have a little rust on them - so use an emery cloth type of sanding material. Usually a medium grit then a fine grit. After they are clear of rust, use the "bulldog" steel wool.
Paint the pipes using a high temp ceramic paint.
Just a tip - once the engine is out, you should flush you coolers and inspect all the steering components
As for the engine, the best method for me has been to use a small and fine steel brush, this polishes up the aluminium very nicely and brings back that fresh new look. Use the brush for any small area on the carbs as well. Be sure to keep the plugs in and block off the ports so that dust can't get in the engine.
You probably have a monoblock painted head if your 95 is a liquid twin. Try to polish the paint with a degreaser, if your paint is chipping - wire brush it all off and re-paint.
On the Airbox and other rubber areas, use the degreaser to clean them, then apply some type of black gloss type of protectant like "armor-all"
The important thing is to do the engine right. And thats to remove the engine from the chassis
There's Hi-Temp paint that comes in a can that has some
ceramic in it. I've seen it at NAPA Auto stores here. If I
remember correctly it's good for up 1200 degrees. It comes
in different colors also. Dries to the touch in hours but
must be backed at high temp for full cure.
I'm not sure of the brand, I can check tonight. I buy it at a high performance shop and it's called "high temp exhaust paint" I think the rating is for 1350F. I have never had a problem with it. Even the Y pipe stays nice.
Can't be 100% sure of the ceramic content in the paint but I think I remember the cashier telling me it was a ceramic based paint. At any rate, it doesn't matter if it is ceramic based or not because the proof is there - the stuff works for me.
I suppose it goes without saying, but I'll mention it anyway, a
stop at the car wash will be a HUGE timesaver on a project like this. Pay attention to the areas down low where all the crud collects. It IS worth the trip if it's nasty in there where your motor is supposed to be somewhere....
Best paint in the world won't stick to a pipe that has rust flakes on it. Time spent with wire wheel chucked in a drill is well worth it.
A few hours spent in here will reward you many times over. For the way it looks, the resale value, and the time saved locating now easily seen problems should you need to work on it.
I've been doing some cleaning with Castol Super Clean (that purple stuff) and I've found that is cleans the plastic pretty well, too. I haven't saturated any decals yet, but it really made the paint shine in some bare areas.
This is a part of sleddin I enjoy. I use engine degreaser all over everything, the secret is not to leave it on to long, just 2 or 3 minutes I then pressure wash it all beig carefull to not overdo it on the elctrical components. I then grab the hand held leaf blower (200 mph blast) and /or my air hose and dry everything 100%.
After washing you need to relube everything. I take the clutches off, chain guard, sometimes the chain case cover, and muffler (aluminum covered) and they all go on the buffing wheel. They're all soft aluminium for the most part, and shine up like chrome! Grease all the tie rod ends, use a protectant like armour all, and some of the spray tire dressings are also good (there all silicones of some form) and do the belly pan, hoses, air box, plug wires, cable housing (not the metal part) etc.
grease the ball ends of the steering tie rods, and lube the front axle zerk while you have the secondary off.
I sand and then paint the Y pipe with Dupli-color brand 1200 degree spray paint, its like $4.99 at auto zone stores. You do need to cure it for best results by warming the pipe slowly the first time you run the engine with the new paint, run it 5 or 10 minutes at idle then let it cool. If you fire it up and go out and ride 50 miles or something right away the paint will blister and flake off. hope this helps some... DooZ...
Another good cleaner is called S-100 Total Motorcycle Cleaner. It comes in a red aresol can. Works very well. It is safe to spray on just about everything, although it is a bit expensive. Check it out. I buy it at my local motorcycle shop.
I don't understand how some motors get so dirty. I wipe everything down with wd-40 when I get back and can honestly say my sleds engines still look like new. Well they did, I sold my 99 machZ and the buyer was thrilled with its condition. Yes I rode it, it had somewhere around 5,000 miles. I still have the 99 mxz and it too looks like new. My recommendation once you follow all of the tips here on how to get it back to good shape is to take a little time each time you get back and wipe it down. Once the motor cools down, spray it down with wd-40 (except the clutchs of course) especially the exaust. My pipes all looked like new. Even the y pipe on the mxz.
A forum community dedicated to snowmobile owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, troubleshooting, trails, maintenance, riding tips, modifications, classifieds, accessories, and more!