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Discussion Starter #1
Ok, let me back up now. I just posted about the clutch bolt torque and I can't even get the clutch off. I cranked on the puller, wrapped it with the hammer and nothing, cranked it tighter hit it again, and nothing. Tightened some more, hit again and nothing. Took the puller out and noticed the crank started putting a thread in my tool. Is my tool shot now! Do I need to put a washer on the end of the tool. What am I doing wrong? Clutch was off a couple weeks ago to have a new spring put on it. I thought it would come right off! Everything I touch turns into a project  
 

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you can try to hit it with a air tool,   this has worked for me many times.  i normally only do it after the wrench and hammer thing does not work.
 

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Lube the puller, and the end where it bottoms with grease, tighten it, back it off and retighten again and again, eventually it will come off. Keep the tapping to a minimum, as this could damage the crank/bearings and possbly the clutch. I find the same torque applied to a bolt with GREASE not WD-40 on it will increase the load applied to the puller against the crank as much as 20% higher. Usually this is enough.
 

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you say your puller has threads on it from the crank, is it bent. If it is you probably need to get a new puller a heavy duty one.  some say not to use a impact wrench on the pullers because of crank damage, but it seems to work the best.  If the puller is bent  I would bend it back and try a impact.
 

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Well, I just tryed to pull my clutch and had the same problem. Would not budge. First of all you better make sure you have the correct puller. If you do here's what to do. To keep the cl. from rotating I use a cut off hocky stick handle. I slide it through the cl. cam arms. In one side and out the other. Then tighten the puller as tight as you can with a 1/2" drive rachet. Give the end of the puller "one" rap with a hammer. If this dosn't do the job do not contd. rapping the puller with that dam hammer. Brake out the propane torch (everyone should have one) and while slowly rotating the cl. with an open end 3/4" wrench on the puller heat the fixed sheave and stand back. That honey will just jump off of that crank with a loud bang. Good Luck!

   Auggie
 

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put the same amount of torque on the clutch puller, and then use a little torch and heat up the shaft between the sheaves, .  make sure to hear it up evenly, and it only has to get fairly warm, not red hot.      this should take it off.
make sure you hit the clutch puller straight on with the hammer, don't want to knock the crank out.    
I personally wouldn't use a impact, if it doesn't come off with a breaker bar and a little heat, it is stuck.

also, once you put the clutch back on, don't keep retightening the clutch over and over again, usually all you need to do is re-torque it once or twice and that should be fine.
 

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all these options in my opinion are good ones, except for the impact. when you do get it off, put a thin coat of ant-seize on the crank before you put the clutch back on. next time you take it off, it will come right off.
 

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i suggjested the air wrench as a last ditch effort.   Normally i try the hammer thing which works well,  but sometimes it will not come off.   At this point we have a 150 psi in the airtank and i shall use a 1/2 " airwrench.   i get the bolt tight then hit it with the airwrench for a few seconds.   noemally the clutch comes right off.   The guy that suggjest the propane torch ,  i would be carefull not to get close to the seal or heat it up so much as to hurt the seal,  this may never happen , but just my 2 cents worth.oh ya,  puting a little grease on the end of the puller is good.  my dealer stated that a little never sieze on the cranck was a bad idea.
 

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I would not put the anti-seize on the crank, the reason the clutch stays on the crank and doesn't slip is because of friction.    make sure to watch you do not mess up the threads on the inner clutch sheeve when using the impact.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for all the posts this late in the season. I tried all your suggestions except for the air and the heat. I guess I don't have the balls to try them. When I picked up my new clutch the dealer said I could just stop buy the shop and one of his guys would pop the clutch off for me. Nice guy, right! So I think I'll go that route. Thanks again, these forums are the best thing since sliced bread!
 

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Well, don't worry about useing heat (a heat gun though would be safer). I have used this method often. When the cl. comes off you can reach right down and touch the crank and it is still cool. This method will not cause any problems with crank seals. Of course anytime you are useing an open flame common sence should be used !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well the clutch is off. Looks like I was sold the wrong puller. Or a crappy puller at best. Freakin dealer popped the clutch with half a turn on his puller. Hopefully I didn't damage anything with all the sledge banging and breaker bar cranking!
 

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Well, I hope so too. There's nothing worse then breaking something when you were trying to "Fix" something.

   Auggie
 
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