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Discussion Starter #1
The drive shaft bearing behind the speedo pick experienced failure (loud squeaky noise and loss of speedometer function) this weekend on my 2001 zrt600 with reverse.

I have a couple general questions, so please bear with me.

#1 Can I replace the bearing without having to break open the chaing case?

#2 If no to question #1, does having reverse present any unique challenges?

If anybody could give me some general steps to complete this procedure of bearing R&R, that would be great.

On a related note, my previous two zrt6's (1996 and 1998) also had this bearing go bad. I typically grease the speedo housing every 500 - 700 miles or so. Both times it happen mid-vacation, so I had a dealer in the area fix it. So, if this is going to be a maintance item, it's about time I learn how to do it.

Here's what I don't get. I've been told that the grease fitting on the speedo housing is only for lubeing the speedo hook up, that no grease makes it way into the bearing. Now, if you look at the pic below for a 2001 zrt6, #44 reads "Bearing, 1 in. w/Lock Collar - Re-Lubricative" Do the 2001's have a grease fitting in addition to the speedo grease zirk that I missed? Does greasing the speedo housing on 2001 and newer cats now also grease the bearing?

Again, any help from a procedure stand point to R&R this bearing would be appreciated.

Thanks,
David

 

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Mine went last year also, I ended up having the dealer do it, as he said it would only be 2 hrs labour plus parts.  If I remember correctly $250 CAN.

You have to take the chain case apart, and I also had reverse.  I knew I would do more than $250 worth of swearing, not to mention the beer, so I just went with the dealer.

If you have a manual, you should be able to do it, it doesn't look that hard, just time consuming.

FishHog
 

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First thing I did when mine went bad is get a good bearing that AC doesn't use and then replace the remaining with the same.  Haven't had any trouble yet.   KOW
 

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This happened on my 1996 ZRT 600 because the motor mount brackets were bad so i had to replace the big one in the back. I kept braking the 2 little ones up front also, but that was from the broken big one. That bracket being broken ruined a lot of things i had to re-align the clutch, get a new chain case cover and replace the jackshaft bearings. The only hard part was changing the big bracket.
maybe thats whats wrong
 

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i have had to replace them on a 95 zrt 800 and a 96 zrt 800.  neither had reverse so i can not help you there.  it is a process that takes time,  you have to loosen the track,(or take out the suspension)  then you have to split the chain case remove the chain, remove the gear,take out the three bolts that hold in the bearing,remove the bearing and cage,then go to the other side, remove the belt, th4en remove the speedo cable,then remove the three bolts that hold the bearing in,  then loosen the lock collar,  then push the drive shaft towards the mufller, then slide it down on the clutch side.  put on the new bearing and put back together.

have a good time.
 

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I have a '97 ZRT6
 (w/o reverse) & last winter I blew the same bearing. Speedometer broke & 55 miles later so did the bearing!  
 The bearing (original) I removed was sealed therefore the grease never made it to the bearing.  AC has a REPLACEMENT bearing that allows grease from the zerk to lubricate the bearing.  The lead-time from AC was too long so I went to the local NAPA & they hooked me up with a replacement that also allowed grease to flow into the bearing.  The whole replacement took me a little more than 5 hours, it was my first time & I didn't work at a blistering pace. It's not a hard job, just requires patients.  And when it's done, you will know it is done right! Here is how I removed the driveshaft, as with any job there is more than one way to do it.
-Remove the rear suspension.
-Remove the drain plug -- drain the oil.
-Remove the gearcase cover.
-Loosen the external chain tensioner.
-Remove one of the cotter pins holding the spring assembly.
-Loosen the nut holding the driven sprocket.
-Remove the chain & driven sprocket.  (You may have to remove the drive sprocket too)
-Remove the bearing carrier behind the driven sprocket (three nyloc nuts).
-There should be an O-ring around the outside of the bearing.
-Remove the speedometer adapter (three nyloc nuts).
-Inside the tunnel-the three bolts are carriage style & hold the bearing retainers to the tunnel.
-From the speedometer adapter side -- push or tap the driveshaft towards the right (rider's right).  This will unseat the chaincase bearing.
-Remove the chaincase bearing.  There should be an O-ring between the bearing and the shaft.
-Keep pushing (or tapping) the driveshaft toward the right.  Until the left bearing & driveshaft are out of the mounting hole in the tunnel.
-Remove the driveshaft by tilting it & pull it out of the tunnel.
Removing the bearing is easy as long as you know which way "clockwise" is.  The locking collar works like an eccentric.  The counterbore in the locking collar is slightly off-center.  When it is turned CCW it tightens, CW loosens it.
-Loosen the setscrew on the locking collar.
-There is an unthreaded hole on the collar--insert a punch and drive it clockwise.  (Counterclockwise will tighten the collar)
OK put the disassembly machine in reverse & assemble it with new parts!
Good Luck
 

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It's pretty close to changing your track. You gotta drop your susspension, remove your chain case cover. The reverse is pretty simple. Just rember how you took it off. I recomend digital camara for reference. Then all you realy gotta do is get your drive shaft out, and replace your bearings. and return to orignal form. I belive on those there's some suspension blocks under neath. Make sure you mark where there at so it goes back the same way. I gotta do mine this summer. Should be fun!
 

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Greasing the bottom zerk on your driveshaft puts grease in the cup which lubes the speedo coupling, as for the bearing it is a seal bearing on both sides so the grease kind of just stays against the rubber seal of the bearing, my dealer told me years ago to take a large needle and make a few small holes on the side of the bearing facing the cup so some grease can get inside the bearing, I've never lost had that bearing go bad (14 years 9 cats, one 98 T-cat had over 11,000 miles) as far as the cross shaft in 2001 cat installed a grease fitting on that bearing (I've lost these before) this is a good Ideal, my brothers polaris has had the crossshaft grease fitings for years. Also remember not all greases are compatiable...   Hope this helps
 

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The replacement bearing I used cane with three holes in the seal.  My AC dealer told me that was the only replacement available.
 

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Thats a better bearing for that application,grease needs to get inside that bearing, this is the bearing that takes the most abuse, the other one on the other side is happy in the chaincase with all the chaincase lube, the oil seems to get inside the bearing over time even though it is also a sealed bearing also
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thanks Gentleman for all the help/tips.  To my surprise, my extended warranty looks like it will cover the cost of a new bearing and it's replacement.

I will however be replacing this bearing in our '99 Pantera with a new one, using the procedures/tips provided here.

Thanks again!

David
 
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