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Discussion Starter #1
I was just wondering if anyone knows what the factory oil injection settings are? My Exciter lets a little puff of blue smoke out the exhaust when you start out after stopping and letting it idle. I am thinking that there is too much oil being injected and also causing my plugs to get fouled out too. I have cleaned my carbs and made sure my jets were at factory settings. The only thing i havent cheked is the float settings so if anyone knows what the factory settings are please let me know. If anyone can help that would be great.
 

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I was just wondering if anyone knows what the factory oil injection settings are? My Exciter lets a little puff of blue smoke out the exhaust when you start out after stopping and letting it idle. I am thinking that there is too much oil being injected and also causing my plugs to get fouled out too. I have cleaned my carbs and made sure my jets were at factory settings. The only thing i havent cheked is the float settings so if anyone knows what the factory settings are please let me know. If anyone can help that would be great.[/b]
I am rebuilding one cylinder since I just figured out my Phazer burned a piston. I would check the pistons and compression. Leak down test is even better.


According to my clymer manual oil pump specs are this:

EX570

ID color 1988 Pink

Plunger diameter 5.5 mm (.22 in)

Minimum pump stroke .15-.20 mm (.006-.008 in)

Maximum pump stroke 1.62-1.80 mm (1.064-1.071 in)

Pump cable free play .15-.20 mm (.006-.007 in)

Carb:

Float level is supposed to be 17.1-19.1 mm (.67-.75 in) :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So there is no actual screw to turn in or out to adjust how much oil is injected? Also how do you go about checking the floats or what do you measure off of? Also how do you perform a leak down test? I can do the compression test later and see what it says. What is the compression supposed to be?
 

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So there is no actual screw to turn in or out to adjust how much oil is injected? Also how do you go about checking the floats or what do you measure off of? Also how do you perform a leak down test? I can do the compression test later and see what it says. What is the compression supposed to be?[/b]
I would buy a service manual. Too much info there to give you here. Yamaha service manuals are the best but are expensive. Check ebay. I would get a Clymer manual to read up on how to do these checks...
 

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humm...unless your running smokeless oil or something...you should have some smoke comming out the exaust..

the cable free play, is the amount of oil per fuel..the less free play you have, the more oil, the more free play you have, the less oil..but either way..i would`nt adjust it out of the recomended range, to get ride of a little smoke..
far as your plugs fouling...is that mainly when it sets idling, and/or in the lower ranges of the throttle??
maybe an adjustment, of the idle mix screw would be in order..they do have a pretty big effect..
 

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When I thoroughly went through my carbs a few years back I turned the screw on both carbs out just a touch and it had a huge effect. I think they were set awfully rich stock. Just be careful as going too lean will obviously kill your motor. Personally I would not mess with the oil injection system unless completely necessary.
Oops you have an older exciter, the carbs and settings may be completely different. Sorry about that.
 

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good point..

basicaly, if the screw in on the intake/motor side of the carb, it meters fuel flow..if the screw is on the air box side of the carb, it meters air

so..both will do the opisite when turning them in a given direction..
if the screw is on the motor side of the carb..turning it IN, will LEAN out the mix
if the screw is on the air box side of the carb..turning it IN, will ENRICHEN the mix, by cutting down the air going through the idle circuit.

another way to tell when in doubt..is "usually" a screw that (for lack of a better term), controls fuel flow, will be real pointy and sharp..
where as a screw that meters air flow, will be more flat, and rounded on the end..
also, a screw that meters air, will often be hollow at the tip, and have a couple holes in the side of the screw..
hope this helps..

refering to typical mikuni/keihen carbs...
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well my oil injection cable I can pull it up about 3/4 to an inch. I have my carbs adjuxted to the factory specs which are air screws 5/8 outs, idle screws 6 turns out, main jets 320, and pilot jets are factory just cant remember what size they are off hand. Power Jets have been eliminated. I have been towing the kids around on the sleds and I am wondering if they has anything to do with why it is bogging a little bit and smoking a little. I havent been going faster than 10 mph. Anyone know any good mods to do to these sleds to make them a little faster?
 

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Well my oil injection cable I can pull it up about 3/4 to an inch. I have my carbs adjuxted to the factory specs which are air screws 5/8 outs, idle screws 6 turns out, main jets 320, and pilot jets are factory just cant remember what size they are off hand. Power Jets have been eliminated. I have been towing the kids around on the sleds and I am wondering if they has anything to do with why it is bogging a little bit and smoking a little. I havent been going faster than 10 mph. Anyone know any good mods to do to these sleds to make them a little faster?[/b]
That sled should be plenty fast. I have a 1990 exciter and it will do 90mph on hard pack. I do have pipes on though.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
My sled goes quick, I keep up with my brother in laws polaris xcr 600, just sometimes it bogs at mid throttle and I dont know why. Also when I start out after idle i get a puff of blue smoke out the exhaust. Can anyone tell me how to do a leak down test?
 

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On my Enticer 340 the cable for the oil pump is connected the the throttle cable right at the carb.

There is a bolt that tightens (or loosens) the cable tension to the oil pump, which adjusts the amount of oil entering the engine.

I recently noticed that my Enticer was using very little oil so I asked my mechanic and he said "it should give off a puff of blue smoke when you start it up." I said it didn't so he told me to add some oil to my gas incase the oil pump ever shut down.
 

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To do a leak down test you seal off the intake & exhaust ports , leave the plugs in & set up a regulator to apply 13 lbs pressure to the bottom end. It should hold that much without leaking.

I think you're probably fine as the signs of bottom end leakage are white plugs , needing more fuel to stay running (sometimes you put the choke on a bit & it runs better), hard starting , many pulls with the choke on full to start....

You are having to much fuel or oil from what you've said.

Devo
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah I am having problems with too much feul. I pull my plugs after running it and they are black instead of being brown. I have the factory jets in and the carbs are set up like they should be from the factory. I ride around the yard alot pulling the kids in there sled behind me and i usually dont go faster than 10 mph. Thats probably the reason for fouling plugs, but I am not sure. Anyone else have this problem when going slow?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I just cleaned my carbs yesterday and they are clean enough to eat off of. I cleaned the choke plungers cables and made sure they were adjusted properly. I did find however that my air screws will not turn in or out on my sled. Its like they are stuck in position. I tried turning one of them in and out and I broke one of the ears off of the screw, so does anyone know how to get the screws out when this happens? Maybe this is why my sled keeps fouling plugs. If anyone can help that would be great.
 
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