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I have been thinking about streching out my sled to a 136. It is 2000 ZR600 EFI.   Has anyone done this and what are you thoughts.  

I take at least one trip out west a year, last year it was Cooke City, MT. I ran my shorty 121 the whole trip but found that it could not climb.   I also do a lot of off trail riding ion the UP and in Northern MN when there is snow.  

I was thinking about going with a 1.5" track.  I know that pushing it a little for trail riding, and may burn hyfax faster, but the trade offs may be worthi it in deeper snow.  I currently run a 1.25" with studds and have no issues with hyfax wear.  

One of my ohter concerns is the handeling of my sled.  how much harder will it turn with this extra track under it?

Any ideas as where to get the tunnel and rail extensions?

6Mile
 

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sounds like a good project to keep  you busy untill snow hits... there are a few guys who have extended 121's so im sure you will get some responses good luck
 

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Do it, you wont be dissapointed! I did my Doo last year and from may years of studs I will NEVER go back!
Here are the down falls of long tracking: Takes a little more room to turn it around, loose about 10-15 mph on top with an 1.5 paddle, slightly less mpg, track noise.
The advantages: Much better ride, awsome hill climber, good braking power, awsome acceleration in any condition but ice, no studs to buy or replace.
I put the 1.6 Cat paddle on my Doo because of the ALL open window design, I wanted all the snow I could get on the hifax and like you, I ride in Michigan and you know what a crummy year it was! My hifax looks like new after 1500 miles and never had a heat problem [never had new looking rails after 1500 with studs]. As far as turning it was no different that I noticed. I picked my kit up from specialtysleds.com but was not happy and had to do some building of my own [look in the Doo thread about streching her out] and you will see what I had to say. I would call your dealer and find out how big a lug you can install and what kind of kit Cat makes if any. Also, you will have to gear down 2 on top and tighten up the secondary about 3-5 pounds to make up for the extra rotating weight and traction. Now's the time to do this project, you wont be dissipointed!
 

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Streching to a 136 might be a good idea if you're really into hill climbing, but I wouldn't go with anything more than a 1.25 unless you spend all your time riding in fresh snow. It's just not worth it.

A few years ago everyone where I'm from thought that longer tracks were the hot ticket. People with ZRT's and any high horse power machines would go for the long tracks.

Now most people realize that a 121 inch with a 1.25 lug is quite capable, and anywhere east of the rockies driver skill makes much more of a difference than an extra 14 inches of track.

The short tracks handle WAY better, you just have to keep up your momentum when you get off-trail.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks Newf, I will  shoot an e-mail to sled head to get his opinion.

Mikadoo,
Thanks for the input.  I think I will be going to do this project.  I now just need find the materials and parts.

Any one have any input on who makles tunnel and rail extensions.
 

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DO IT! It is awesome, I live in east North Dakota and am using the Polaris 136 1.5 Camoplast with every 3rd window closed on my ZRT and I am not even haveing hyfax problems. The turning around thing, does not matter, that only occurs at real slow speeds, at trail speeds I noticed no problems in turning. 1.5 is a little tall and sucks on the ice, but C&A pro has carbide lug picks for us to solve that. As far as I am concearned (and MANY others agree) 136 really is not a long track, not when there is 159 now available, LOL. Personally I wish the 136 was standard on all of them (except Mountain, the deserve more).

Your local Arctic Cat dealer has a complete kit for your sled includes everything you need to do the conversion correctly, coolers, rails, hyfax ect... about $550. It is real easy to do it this way. The suspension bolts right in to the exact same places, the rails are longer.

I know of another way, if you are good with fabricating. Make a new hat or get one foe the tunnel extension then Use your 121 suspension with a 136 track start the installation like normal then pull your suspension back as far as it will go and mount it there, some of the mod sled builders do this to better balance the machine and allow more room for oversized drivers and idlers, this should be done with a chaincase roll to get the best results.

Personally I went with the $550 factory built kit because it was easy and alows the suspension to bolt up exactly where it belongs, and a buddy with an RMK was going to 144 2" so I got his old track for $150.

The clutches may need to be tuned to get the most out of the new setup.

One more thing, most sleds are overgeared and the top speed you loose can be made up by a quicker gear, I don't mean you can go as fast as before, rather get to that 10mph lower speed alot sooner.

Wait, ONE more thing, Haydays is an awesome place to find all of the stuff cheap!
 

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</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote </td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I know of another way, if you are good with fabricating. Make a new hat or get one foe the tunnel extension then Use your 121 suspension with a 136 track start the installation like normal then pull your suspension back as far as it will go and mount it there, some of the mod sled builders do this [/b][/quote]
I'm glad to hear this is not uncommon.  I was thinking of doing exactly this.  I think the only negative would be that using the 121 rails gives you the same footprint on the ground, so you are losing some of the purpose of having a longer track.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Cat_Rider,

I was think of going the factory route, but I was told that you could order the parts individualy and save some money.  I wonder if this is true.  

The set-back way will work, but you don't get any larger contact patch on the ground. the only good of this is that AOA is better for powder riding.

I was also thinking of holding off untill after The Outlaws/Haydays swaps.  Some times you can get really lucky and find what you are looking for for a great price.  Most of the time I just buy something because I think I need it...  
 

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moving the suspension back and adding larger drivers and idlers also decreases the track's approach angle.

The Factory kit is easy, but if you can do it cheap have-at-er

I tried the cheap way by buying a kit from a private party and ended up with a 2000 ZR kit, I am a machinist, I made it work.
 

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thats where I picked my tunnel extention up from.....and the rails are from Cat........it might be a good idea to go with solid rails if you ride hard.........If you buy them from cat you have to get the part numbers from the long track kit or the suspention wont line up........good luck 6mile you will not regret.....
 
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