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Discussion Starter #1
I'm in the process of replacing the bulkhead on my 00 zr500 after a little mishap.  I got everthing taken off and i'm down to the frame.  I'm wondering if anyone has any tricks to getting the bulkhead off of the tunnel.  What works best on the rivets, grinding, drilling or something else.   Any information on any part of this process would be appreciated thanks.
 
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I had to replace the tunnel on my 96 ZRT and I tried drilling and grinding with a die grinder and a 4" grinder.  The 4" grinder worked excellent, I was done in notime.  Make sure you use monobolt rivets when you put it back together and you will need an air riveter unless you have hands of steel because when those rivets pop with a hand riveter they hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
ARCTICZRT600 do you grind them from the outside then or on the inside of the tunnel.  Yeah i was worring about putting the rivets in but the dealer told me he would rent me his air riveter.
 

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If you are replacing the bulk head then grind the rivits off on the bulk head side. That way you do not damage the tunnel.
I also clean the new overlapped areas with brake clean and run a bead of caulking between the two surfaces. I find it does not allow the rivits to work loose as easy. It will squeeze
out as you are riviting. Make sure you go fast so the caulking does not harden before you finish. Line up the holes with small bolts and nuts at different locations to hold it all to
geather while you are working on it.
Taz800
 

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There are many ways to remove rivets, but the best way is to drill the head and then punch it out while backing the base material from the other side. Use a drill bit that is the same size or one size smaller so you do not damage the hole. A clean tight hole will make the install much easier. If you have any questions, or need help go to your local airport and talk to a mech. We replace many rivets and are happy to help when we can.
 
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I ground my tunnel off from the inside so I didn't damage the midframe.  I didn't have to worry about messing up the old tunnel, it was scrap anyway.  You can try drilling the rivets out but you are going to be there a long long long time.  First you are going to have to use a punch and put a dimple in each and every STEEL rivet.  Don't forget, when you grind you are don't quick, the steel and aluminum doesn't have a chance to heat up.  I tried drilling first and broke the first drill bit on the first rivet, that showed me what this job was going to be like.  Better buy lots of carbide drill bits $$$$$$$, or one 4" grinding wheel.  I had no problem in grinding.  I had the tunnel removed and replaced in a day.  I started around 5 pm quit at 11pm and started back up at 8am and was out on the powder by 1pm.  Add a few days if you are going to drill.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for the advice guys.  Now I just need to fins some time to work on it some more and finish getting all the parts.
 

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Be aware when that grinding wheel fills with Al. it will get hot and can fly apart on you. Anyone recomending using a grinding wheel should be willing to chip in on your medical copay.
 
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I did two machines 96 ZRT and a 98 ZL500 and didn't have a problem with a grinder.  If you break a grinding wheel on a rivet you would sue the wheel manufacturer for a defective wheel.
 

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I am glad you were able to grind the rivets on two sleds without getting hurt. I can not wait to go to work so I can tell all the other sheetmetal mechanics we have been doing it wrong all these years. By the way, what do you do for a living?
 
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Tac, you don't have to get smart, if you must know, I repair semi-trailer bodies which INCLUDES sheetmetal and aluminum.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
ARCTICZRT600 I was wondering if there is a special type of grinding wheel for aluminum or will the normal ones work.
 
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I just used a medium grit wheel.  Just be cafeful, the rivets disappear quick.  You don't need to worry about it getting hot because you are not going at it constantly, just one rivet at a time.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks ARCTICZRT600 I got it apart in about 20 mins.  Pretty easy I thought.  Now all I have to do is get the new bulkhead so I can start putting it all back togethor.
 

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If you are down to the frame doing repairs, what parts do you need?  I have a new Pipe and canister that only have a 100 miles on it.and willing to part with them.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I didn't manage to do anything to the exaust system Firecat but thanks anyway.  I think I have all the parts just need to go pick them up.  Just out of curiosity did you go to aftermarket and if so what company and what do you think of it.  I'm considering installing a D&D single for next year.
 

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I have a D&D pipe on mine and after I wraped it with header wrap to keep the heat in it really turned on.
This summer I am putting a big boar kit in and may be selling the pipe.
very happy with D&D
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Firecat what kinda sled do you have that on.  If you do get rid of the pipe keep me in mind I might be interested.
 
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Glad to hear you had good luck ripping her down.  Best of luck in the future.
 
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