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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 02 CCe zr 800 and the front shock has some play at the bottom. IS it possible to remove it without taking the whole skid out? I was wondering if you can replace that whole setup with one off a non CCE model? How hard would it be? I don't use the adjuster much and it has been making noise. any suggestions?

thanks
matt
 

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I have a 02 CCe zr 800 and the front shock has some play at the bottom. IS it possible to remove it without taking the whole skid out? I was wondering if you can replace that whole setup with one off a non CCE model? How hard would it be? I don't use the adjuster much and it has been making noise. any suggestions?

thanks
matt[/b]
first you can get it out without taking the skid out but it is almost impossible. second i may be good to take it out, check everything, grease it, get the shocks rebuilt, and put it back in. as for the shock or shocks. i can rebuild and fix them. it all depends on what you want. i can remove thie reservoir if you would like or you can keep it on. if you want to do this i can explain most about the advantages and disadvantages about reserviors and clickers and help you make a educated decesion. sorry my page is not up on the link yet, server upgrade and we are still getting it all back together. let me know
 

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Do some searches on this topic. I used to own that sled. More than likely if it's the stock bushing, it's wasted. Either make a new one out of nylon, or use the snopro set up. It's different and stronger. Hopefully it hasn't wasted the end cap.
If you don't use the adjuster, or as I called it, the Hobby Knob, get rid of it. You can just have your shock rebuilder, (if he is good enough) cap off that line at the base of the shock. Then rebuild. That is what I did, and it worked great. Only reason I say if he's good enough, is because it's difficult to get all the air out etc. with out that section.
But anyway, plenty of good info on here, and if he's around talk to ZRsledhead on here. He's had like 3 of these sleds with a combo of probably well over 30K miles. He's the best with that sled.

Take it easy.
 

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Do some searches on this topic. I used to own that sled. More than likely if it's the stock bushing, it's wasted. Either make a new one out of nylon, or use the snopro set up. It's different and stronger. Hopefully it hasn't wasted the end cap.
If you don't use the adjuster, or as I called it, the Hobby Knob, get rid of it. You can just have your shock rebuilder, (if he is good enough) cap off that line at the base of the shock. Then rebuild. That is what I did, and it worked great. Only reason I say if he's good enough, is because it's difficult to get all the air out etc. with out that section.
But anyway, plenty of good info on here, and if he's around talk to ZRsledhead on here. He's had like 3 of these sleds with a combo of probably well over 30K miles. He's the best with that sled.

Take it easy.[/b]
im kind confusedon what you saying about caping the shocks. all you doo is loose the res and hose, put an air valve on it and use the IFP depth on the non res shock. dont knwo why youd say its really hard. the hardest part would ne setting the IFP because you cant use the bleeder valve you have to trial and error a few time to get it set right. unless it has a botome cap also but it probably doesnt.
 

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There is an outer shell that is supposed to fill with oil. It's been a while so I'm trying to remember correctly. But it just gets a little tricky to get the air out of that outer shell.

Have you done one? I like the bleeder screw idea. I think that would work well.
 

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There is an outer shell that is supposed to fill with oil. It's been a while so I'm trying to remember correctly. But it just gets a little tricky to get the air out of that outer shell.

Have you done one? I like the bleeder screw idea. I think that would work well.[/b]
i have not dont one but have done similar things. you could make a bleeder screw and make it all work easy, dill a hole, drill head sized hole partally down to fit the screw in (dont wnat it sticking up or may get hit my the piston) tape and but a bleeder screw in, its a good idea, i should true that, it would work very well.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I thought the hobby knob just made the shock longer in front. Is there anyway of setting in one position without doing anything else. Is that what you guys are talking about. I just figured a shock of a regular zr 800 would work but no telling if its the same length or mounting setup. I have searched this subject in the past but that was a year ago. I don't really adjust my knob at all. I run it cranked all the way out. It has more ski pressure that way. I would like to fix this before snow flies.
thanks
matt
 

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I thought the hobby knob just made the shock longer in front. Is there anyway of setting in one position without doing anything else. Is that what you guys are talking about. I just figured a shock of a regular zr 800 would work but no telling if its the same length or mounting setup. I have searched this subject in the past but that was a year ago. I don't really adjust my knob at all. I run it cranked all the way out. It has more ski pressure that way. I would like to fix this before snow flies.
thanks
matt[/b]
your basic gain from a reservoir is the IFP is not in the shock body so you can not hit it with the piston if you have some sort of sela blowout, you have more oil cooling, and with a clicker you can adjust it. usaully most people with clickers find what they like and leave it there. as for what you can do. first you can just get the shock rebuilt and but it back in and ride. second you can switch the clicker reservoir for just a reservoir with no clicker(may be the best idea if you dont want a clicker) third you could try the getting rid on the reservoir idea (hardest thing to do) and fourth you could buy a not res shock for that sled. you can really choose wahtever you would like. ask anymore question id be gald to help. also if your looking for shocks to be rebuilt i can also do that as well.
 

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timespent,
It's not a clicker.

It's a shock with a remote reservoir, and then another hose going to another reservoir with a knob on it up at the handle bars. You turn this knob and it forces more oil into the shock. That's all it does. It's really hard on the shock in my opinion. That's why they state if your using it, to not turn the knob more than 3 turns past resistance. You'll just blow oil out the seals etc.
This is why I said it's somewhat difficult to rebuild with the Hobby knob removed.

At anyrate.

elevatorman,
If you run with the knob all the way out, that's the least amount of ski pressure. Not more.

I'd see if you can find someone to cap off the knob line down at the shock and rebuild just as a remote reservoir shock. It's still a good shock.
 

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timespent,
It's not a clicker.

It's a shock with a remote reservoir, and then another hose going to another reservoir with a knob on it up at the handle bars. You turn this knob and it forces more oil into the shock. That's all it does. It's really hard on the shock in my opinion. That's why they state if your using it, to not turn the knob more than 3 turns past resistance. You'll just blow oil out the seals etc.
This is why I said it's somewhat difficult to rebuild with the Hobby knob removed.

At anyrate.

elevatorman,
If you run with the knob all the way out, that's the least amount of ski pressure. Not more.

I'd see if you can find someone to cap off the knob line down at the shock and rebuild just as a remote reservoir shock. It's still a good shock.[/b]
ok i got you, its a cross link shock (thats what they are called) yep i know now. well id say the best thing is, get rid of the adjuster and just keep the single reversoir. i have one of there shocks on the 96 xcr 440 SP i used to ride (still have it) and they are ok but not great. id say cap off the line going to the adjuster and leave just the one rev for sure, best bet. this still leaves the IFP outside the body and in the revervour and dont have the high chance (it happened to me with this shock to) to blow out the seals in the adjuster and then have more problems. they are just a pain in the but.
 

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Yep, well, I thought the cross link shock was just the sno pro shock that actually linked the front and rear skid shocks together somehow.

Glad we're on the same page now.
 

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just take the suspension out

it is not rocket sciece

4 bolts

ondce out it is easy to work on the sled
 

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just take the suspension out

it is not rocket sciece

4 bolts

ondce out it is easy to work on the sled[/b]
not to be mean freezer but we arnt talking about removing the shock, we are talking about removing parts off the shock itself. trying to get rid of the cross link part of the center shock.
 

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yes I know

it would be much easier once the suspension is off on a bench
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I not worried above removing it. Just figured that there was an easier way. I will rip that skid out with weekend and just bring the shocks somewhere to have them rebuild. I have a REP suspension place right down the road. Maybe they can do something. I can replace the driveshaft bearings and slides when its out. what are the part numbers for the heavier springs? I weight about 215 but I don't ride 2 crazy. But I like to stay off trail as much as possible. Last winter when riding it sounded like some noise coming from the front of the skid but just figured the bushing might be shot. I heard there was an update for the shock? Where can I get that part? This site helps me a lot thanks for the help
matt
 

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I have rebuilt shocks for nine years and can tell you that shock is called a Dial-adjust. It is not a Cross-link. Cross-links were only used on the race sleds. Dial adjusts have been used on Cats from '96 through '02. The ACT Dial adjust shocks require an update that uses the FOX seperator piston or you can cap off the adjuster line port on the shock and use it as a reservoir shock. Your end cap may be worn after the bottom bushing wears as this was a common problem with the '02's. That is most likely where the noise is coming from. Send me a PM if I can help.
 

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I have rebuilt shocks for nine years and can tell you that shock is called a Dial-adjust. It is not a Cross-link. Cross-links were only used on the race sleds. Dial adjusts have been used on Cats from '96 through '02. The ACT Dial adjust shocks require an update that uses the FOX seperator piston or you can cap off the adjuster line port on the shock and use it as a reservoir shock. Your end cap may be worn after the bottom bushing wears as this was a common problem with the '02's. That is most likely where the noise is coming from. Send me a PM if I can help.[/b]
ype im sorry dave is right on this one. its dial adjust not cross link. looked it up, thought htey were called cross links but ya they are dial adjust. i deal mostly with polaris race stuff and after market high performance fox zero, and ryde fx race shocks. just now starting to deal with more OEM stuff. sorry for the headache.
 
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