Curious to know if anyone has does any changing, I'm personnally looking for more low end, any hard fast rules on this...lowend vs topend. Also, does anyone know at what point you have to change chains, etc.
I had a 1999 zr600 efi. I changed the top gear one tooth smaller. I was not happy with the performance in the deep snow.would burn belts. After changing the gear the sled ran better in deep snow and also the fuel milage came up a little. It was very nice to take off with if you did not want to spin the track. I didnot loose very much top end as the engine would pull more rpms.
I didnot change the chain. I made up a longer adjuster bolt to adjust chain tension. I had 4000 miles on it when i traded it last year. with no problems.
That sounds awfully high 22/41.......I havent played with gearing in a 600 but I have on the 800 and 900. This is how we figure out the ratio's. Right now you have a 186 ratio. By dividing the top number of teeth into the bottom it will give you your ratio.......Other people do the oposite and divide the bottom into the top.......whitch is how you are suposed to do it for Cats but I took this from my Ski-doo days. I think that you had better check with your dealer on your existing gears because if that is your ratio than you might not want to gear down much. Try one tooth smaller on the top and play with it from there..... if you dont like it try one more bigger on the top. Remember only do it in small incraments so you feel all the changes.
Thats the gearing I currently have in my 900ZR (23/40)....It works good but doesnt pull hard after90mph.....I am going back to stock gearing and a steeper helix instead. I belive you when you say the 600 will pull more gear because 22/41 is like tractor gearing.........But then again it does rev 7900rpm and with that high of rpm you can afford to run higher than the big cats because they only rev 7200-7500rpm.
2002 ZR600 Carb (22/41 stock gear setup)
current mods...power breather/D&D clutch kit (std for 02 600)/MBRP B&B Silencer/144 studs, so far, but do have a set V-Force reeds coming that will get installed.
</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Lick'nOutaTheCatsDish @ April 03, 2002, 11:07am)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">ZREFI,
Current sled setup
2002 ZR600 Carb (22/41 stock gear setup)
current mods...power breather/D&D clutch kit (std for 02 600)/MBRP B&B Silencer/144 studs, so far, but do have a set V-Force reeds coming that will get installed.[/b][/quote]
22/41 is not stock gearing for the 2002 carb sled, its 20/39. The 22/41 is stock in the EFI. May want to pull chaincase and actually check to see what gears are in sled. I know that the EFI's do well with 23/40, can't comment on the carb though.
Also, Sounds like you have already dropped some $$$ on the sled. If you want more low end grunt, try a set of Heelclickers in the primary, worked for me.
I have a 2002 ZR 600 EFI. I used the D&D primary setup from their kit teal spring and 10-54 polaris weights. I used a 57/50 helix with the stock red/white secondary spring. I changed the gearing in the sled from the stock 22/41 to a 19/40. I was faster in 1/2 mile over a 2001 zr 600 efi with the stock gearing and the D&D clutch kit. I was still pulling on him but ran out of lake. It is a good setup when you have tracktion. It snow it doesn't work so well. There is alot of excess track spin. 19/39 works pretty good all around in the sled. I believe that is stock gearing for the carb model. There is not much difference from the stock gearing of 22/41. I would get a gearing chart and go somewhere in between the 19/40 and the 22/41. Make sure you have tracktion or neither clutching or gearing will help.
Also the efi runs a 55-53 helix and the carb. runs a straight 53. So the efi is running a steeper clutching set up also. I also believe the efi has more power. I have to run my 01 efi rear clutch all the way loose to keep my rpms. down. I have found doing this is just as good as most clutch kits.
I have a 00ZR600EFI. D&D pipe and chip, D&D clutch kit, D&D can and 120 picks. I too was thinking of changing the gears but don't know what too. I want a better holeshot but I don't want to sacrifice to much top end.
When you change the gears you have to be aware that if you choose to get a better hole shot you'll lose top end if you choose more top end you'll lose the hole shot. First make sure the sled has traction. Thats key with out that you can't make changes and get good results. Second figure out the longest straight distance you run. Once you know that you can figure out what you want to do with the gearing. The longest stretch I run is 1/2mile thats the longest lake around me. I geared down so that i got a better hole shot and the sled reached it's top speed by the end of that mark. I didn't notice a loss in top end I think thats because of the short distance I run. I am sure that If I changed the gears back to stock and ran 1 mile then chaged to my lower gear ratio and ran the same 1 mile stretch I would notice a decrease in top end. It all depends on what you want the sled to do and the distance your running.
Hello, I have a 1999 ZR 600 EFI that has a goodwin clutch kit, Carbon Tech Reeds and 144 picks. The sled pulls hard off the start, and hold the skis in the air for quite some time. But I am still getting beat in races of 500ft and 1000ft. What kind of gearing should I go too, and will I have to Change the chain???
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