I agree, just pay the $20 and buy one. You will also need button retainers (like $5 for three) and a clutch "wrench" to hold the primary while you use the puller (about $25). If you have never done it before, let someone show you. Also, remember that the clutches are indexed, so make sure you watch the marks.
What are the button retainers?? do they hold those black things w/ the springs together when your putting the clutch back together?? I didnt buy any retainers, and it was a ##### getting that thing back in.... however it was done.
I was reading an article in snotech mag. and they said that if your primary clutch does not come off with the puller try putting grease in the bolt hole and then tighten the puller. They said it's like a hydraulic tool. They said that hitting the puller with a BFH is not a smart idea, you can hurt the seals and bearings. give it a try.
Make sure and buy clutch puller, buttun retainers and spanner wrench. I made my own spanner wrench by tracing the diameter of the primary and making the tool at work.
I read the same article. The said to remove the clutch bolt, and stick the end of your grease gun in there and give it 3 - 5 pumps. Then use the puller. They still said to tighten it, and give it a LIGHT tap with a hammer. Supposedly works and amazed the hell out of them how much easier it came off.
The indexing marks are there because the clutches are balanced at the factory. There is a notch or a mark (sometimes an arrow cast in the clutch) to mark the clutch so when you put it back together, you put it back right. It is vital that you put it back the way it was balanced. If you have the right tools, you can have the primary off and split in half in 30-40 seconds.
i see you have a 583 but, if you are just wanting to service the clutch you need not pull of the fixed half. just loosen the bolt and pull off the sliding and outer fixed half on the spline. you have a 583 and not a zx chassis or rev, so there might not be enuf space to pull it out, unlike the zx where the clutch can come out the side.
but, ya theres a tip to save some money and time if you are constantly adjusting your clutching, saves time not having to use the puller everytime. another tip is you can use your shock adjusting wrench on your TRA to hold it while you torq on untorque the bolt. saves having to buy the holding wrench. throw a bar on it to lengthen your leverage.
For the cost of a new clutch ($500+) or a bent crank ($1000) the $35 for a factory Doo puller is worth it. I broke a aftermarket puller off in my 86 formula plus, and ended up having to cut the clutch to get it off. Pricey lesson, to save $20 on a clutch puller.
I have a Doo puller and it is high quality, and hardened. These are a precision tool, take car of them. Once you own them, keep em. Always take care of them, and keep the threads clean.
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