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92 v-max 4....If I ride for 20 min, then shut the sled off and leave sit for a half hour, then go ride again, after the engine gets warmed up the second time, my coolant light starts to flicker on and off. Stays on if I leave the sled sit and idle, but still flickers when driving it.

I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap. I removed the thermostat the other day when it happened and it was wide open, and slowly went back closed when it cooled off in my hand. So it is definetly getting hot in there.

I purged the air out of the back heat exchanges under the seat. I could hear air escape when I cracked them open.

What should I try next?

Thanks
 

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92 v-max 4....If I ride for 20 min, then shut the sled off and leave sit for a half hour, then go ride again, after the engine gets warmed up the second time, my coolant light starts to flicker on and off. Stays on if I leave the sled sit and idle, but still flickers when driving it.

I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap. I removed the thermostat the other day when it happened and it was wide open, and slowly went back closed when it cooled off in my hand. So it is definetly getting hot in there.

I purged the air out of the back heat exchanges under the seat. I could hear air escape when I cracked them open.

What should I try next?

Thanks[/b]
Are you driving in enough snow my budy had a v 4 ran hot that way, he allways be thowing snow on the foot runners, got in deep snow it was fine. all sleds need a good blanket of snow,for heat exchangers, if it is not that its something in your engine. check you compression go from there.Crash dummy
 

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i am in plenty of snow.

I noticed the tubes under my seat and the fins by the track are getting warm, not hot, but warm to the touch.

I also noticed my resivor tank is overflowing

My radiator is warm also, but not hot on the outside when I touch it with my bear hands.

Does this tell me anything?
 

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I'm thinking if the coolant is totally worn out or too diluted (too much water not enough antifreeze), or if you are running near 100% coolant with little water, it could be boiling or just running hotter than it should. It should be 50:50 or at most 70:30 coolant to distilled water. It doesn't work right at higher concentrations. Probably doesn't apply to you but I wanted to throw it out there anyway. Peek in, I believe the exhaust side, and there's a window where you can see if your water pump belt is intact. Your thermostat clearly works, but if the water isn't being pumped around that could explain it. I would think the coolant would still circulate to some extent (thermodynamic forces or something), explaining why you can feel some heat in your heat exchangers. However if you are overheating but coolant is circulating normally they should be really hot, not just warm. Ultimately the system can't keep up with the engine's cooling needs without the water pump, which is why once it's nice and warmed up is when it starts overheating. Sounds good to me anyway. I think if the pump itself was bad it would be leaking like crazy, so it's probably the belt. If it's not that there could be a blockage somewhere or maybe even a kinked hose. Good luck.
 

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92 v-max 4....If I ride for 20 min, then shut the sled off and leave sit for a half hour, then go ride again, after the engine gets warmed up the second time, my coolant light starts to flicker on and off. Stays on if I leave the sled sit and idle, but still flickers when driving it.

I replaced the thermostat and radiator cap. I removed the thermostat the other day when it happened and it was wide open, and slowly went back closed when it cooled off in my hand. So it is definetly getting hot in there.

I purged the air out of the back heat exchanges under the seat. I could hear air escape when I cracked them open.

What should I try next?

Thanks[/b]
Hi!

How many k's on your v-max? when was the sled's cluches last rebuilt?
It's posible if your cluching is pooched out the engine could be working harder than it should! so hard it does not have the cooling capability to cool the sled.

Also try leaving your rad cap lose and see if it still does the same thing. that will tell you that your engine is leaking combustion "air and fuel" into the cooling system making it bubble "over heat".
that will blead the air out and it shouldn't over heat as soon as it does maybe not at all?
 

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I'm thinking if the coolant is totally worn out or too diluted (too much water not enough antifreeze), or if you are running near 100% coolant with little water, it could be boiling or just running hotter than it should. It should be 50:50 or at most 70:30 coolant to distilled water. It doesn't work right at higher concentrations. Probably doesn't apply to you but I wanted to throw it out there anyway. Peek in, I believe the exhaust side, and there's a window where you can see if your water pump belt is intact. Your thermostat clearly works, but if the water isn't being pumped around that could explain it. I would think the coolant would still circulate to some extent (thermodynamic forces or something), explaining why you can feel some heat in your heat exchangers. However if you are overheating but coolant is circulating normally they should be really hot, not just warm. Ultimately the system can't keep up with the engine's cooling needs without the water pump, which is why once it's nice and warmed up is when it starts overheating. Sounds good to me anyway. I think if the pump itself was bad it would be leaking like crazy, so it's probably the belt. If it's not that there could be a blockage somewhere or maybe even a kinked hose. Good luck.[/b]

Hi.

water boils at 212F. sleds run cool the hotest thermost in a sled today is about 160F. so as long as the sled is working properly it will not run over that. so just so you know you could us straight water or antifrezz, yes anti helps raise the boiling point but the two main caricters of antifrezz are frezzing and lubrcaint.

just think of the old days when they used karoesen and desil fuels for cooling!!!
 
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