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Discussion Starter #1
so i came to the conculsion that i need new needle and seats for my carb. But i'm not 100% sure on which are the needle and seats. And how to change them. I know the needle should just screw out and i should count the turns but how do i get to the seats and whatnot? I have a picture and if you could tell me what number is the needle and seat and tell me what to do that would be great.
 

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Dad had new ones of those installed on his Lynx at the beginning of this season. We just brought it in and had Suzuki do it all for us. It's not expensive, but you don't learn anything yourself by getting someone else to do it for ya. Me... I'm fuel injected... and although I have a '74 Ford that's carburated... it will not always be that way. :)

... that didn't help ...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Also can i hae like any place do it i mean the closest polaris dealer is 30 mins away. The sled is also a 97 600 xlt. Or can i bring it to this yamaha dealer and have them put it in? And about how much would it cost?
 

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... dad had full servicing, so everything was greased, tuned up, and on top of it all the carbs had new needle and seat installed. It came to $140 for all of it, counting taxes, shop supplies (the needle and seat) and labor. He ended up spending more than that though, because they overlooked two springs that had to be replaced, so he managed to get those himself and they installed them for free because it was something they were supposed to check in the first place as part of the servicing.

It was the first... and possibly last... time we used Suzuki to check a snowmobile for us. Dad knew one of the sales reps... neither of us knew if he was the person who would be doing the work. We're Suzuki fans... well... thanks to Dad we're Suzuki fans.

Anyone should be able to do it for ya... but remember if it's not Polaris you're getting the servicing from, odds are the parts are being ordered from your Polaris shop and then shipped to the place you're getting the servicing done anyway. So you're probably better off sticking with your Polaris dealership, even if it's half an hour away? I dunno... :dazed:
 

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It's part number 30 in that pic. --

30 VALVE,NEEDLE,1.5 (1.5)
3131146 (replaces 3130016)

You need to remove the float levers (#32) by sliding out the pin (#33) holding them. You'll need a 10mm (I think) socket to remove the seat. (The needle will simply drop out.) That needle should have a synthetic tip which doesn't show much wear. Inspect it. If you can't see a problem, unscrew the seat and check to see if there is something in the hole that prevents the needle from seating. It's a simple task. Just getting the carbs off is much more work. I wouldn't be surprised if you just have some crud in the seat.
 

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Those early 600's had an all-metal needle/seat that tended to wear out in a short time. The new one will have the viton tipped needle and will last a long time. Replacement is fairly easy but remember to readjust the lever to control float height. Set it level with the bottom of the carb when held upside down with no pressure on the lever. A good idea is to replace all the black rubber fuel line with newer urethane hose. It's the hose particles that wear the needle over time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So do i have to take the carbs off? How do i get the bowl off to , too get to them? Also how do i set the float right and what not?
 

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Those early 600's had an all-metal needle/seat that tended to wear out in a short time. The new one will have the viton tipped needle and will last a long time. Replacement is fairly easy but remember to readjust the lever to control float height. Set it level with the bottom of the carb when held upside down with no pressure on the lever. A good idea is to replace all the black rubber fuel line with newer urethane hose. It's the hose particles that wear the needle over time.[/b]

Interesting...it seems like normally the high end rigs get the good stuff first. Some of the fans from that year had the viton tipped needles standard.

Hose particles? Wear? All the metal ones I've seen have been grooved where the needle bears against the seat. Can you elaborate on the particle wear thought? I just kind of figured it was normal for metal to wear over time when two pieces get pounded together long enough.
 

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So do i have to take the carbs off? How do i get the bowl off to , too get to them? Also how do i set the float right and what not?[/b]

You'll have to pull the carb, probably removing the airbox first. Loosen the ring clamp which secures the carb to the adapter mount. There are four screws on the bowl of the carb. Remove them and you're into the good stuff. (Make sure you either drain the carb first or have a rag to catch the gas when you remove the bowl.)

You might want to check all three rubber adapters when you are in there. Check for cracks. If there are considerable, change them. Air leaks there will cause a lean condition and likely burn down.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
what r the rubber adaptors?
 

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Your probably better off taking the sled to a shop or have someone with expirence to SHOW you how. For the questions you are asking,I wouldn't feel comfortable letting you do it yourself. Im not trying to be a smart arse. There are a lot of "little things" that need to be inspected, cleaned and adjusted when doing this. Not to mention a very carefull dis-assembly and reassembly. If you do it yourself good luck.
I think were getting punked.LOL
 

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Interesting...it seems like normally the high end rigs get the good stuff first. Some of the fans from that year had the viton tipped needles standard.

Hose particles? Wear? All the metal ones I've seen have been grooved where the needle bears against the seat. Can you elaborate on the particle wear thought? I just kind of figured it was normal for metal to wear over time when two pieces get pounded together long enough.[/b]
Most every time that I have done the needle/seat swap on these sleds the seat once removed has a coating of fine, black dirt on the underside. Also this is only seen on sleds using the black rubber fuel hose. It is my thought that the black material is tiny bits of rubber or possibly some type of release agent used in the forming of the rubber hose. None the less these particles are quite abrasive as they pass through the tiny gap presented as the needle opens to allow more fuel in.
 

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Most every time that I have done the needle/seat swap on these sleds the seat once removed has a coating of fine, black dirt on the underside. Also this is only seen on sleds using the black rubber fuel hose. It is my thought that the black material is tiny bits of rubber or possibly some type of release agent used in the forming of the rubber hose. None the less these particles are quite abrasive as they pass through the tiny gap presented as the needle opens to allow more fuel in.[/b]
I heard certian additives you can put in your tank cause the rubber hoses to break down, not to say it's totally related, but it could be a contributing factor to some of the problem, perhaps?
 

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I heard certian additives you can put in your tank cause the rubber hoses to break down, not to say it's totally related, but it could be a contributing factor to some of the problem, perhaps?[/b]
Certainly a possibility. Fuel de-icers containing methanol could be a culprit and they are readily available at corner gas stations instead of the recommended isopropyl alcohol de-icers.
 

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Any atv,snowmobile, or bike dealer ( well, maybe not a Harley shop) should be able to replace an needle and seat in any Mikuni carb. You will be much better off ($) taking the carbs off and bringing to the dealer, although taking the carbs off is almost the hardest part. A needle and seat, they are ususally sold as one, will cost from $15 to $30 ( on an XLT, that will be x3). For the record, I hate Viton tipped needles, everyone I have had ( that's 3 different machines so far) have failed, where the tip goes concave and starts to leak. I like the "old" metal ones much better. If you do it yourself, and if it's the first time, I would highly recommend you taking digital photos of everything before you disassemble, so you know how to put it back together. :crazy: While youre in there (or have the dealer do this too) don't forget to remove the pilot jets, and clean them.
 

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The XLT I bought had leaking carbs before I bought it. I helped the fellow go through the carbs completely, cleaning everything with NAPA 4700 carb cleaner and an air nozzle. The stock metal float valves worked great afterwards. No leaking. Say what you want about the metal valves, but look at them and the seats carefully before you just chuck 'em for the Viton replacements.
 
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