Snowmobile World banner

How To Set Secondary Clutch Pre Wind Phazer 2

11719 Views 12 Replies 2 Participants Last post by  IceFisherman
I'm maintenacing clutches off my 91 Phazer 2 and was wondering how to set the pre wind to 60 degrees on the secondary?

Also, how could I set to optional degrees such as 40 degrees or 70 degrees and be able to tell the difference?

Thanks all
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Take the outside plate of the clutch and lay it down. Place the spring end in the hole it came out of. Then, place the inside clutch plate on top with the inside spring end in it's proper hole. Mark a line on both clutch plates that line up with eachother. Then, holding the outside clutch plate stationary, spin the inside clutch plate clockwise, until you have rotated it 60 degrees. You'll now see your rotation because the 2 lines will have separated, and if you pictured an imaginary line from one mark to the centre of the clutch, and the other mark to the centre of the clutch, you will have an imaginary pie shape at an angle of 60 degrees. At this point, press the inside clutch plate down over the spline, let it spin if back if you wish, and install your circlip.
Take the outside plate of the clutch and lay it down. Place the spring end in the hole it came out of. Then, place the inside clutch plate on top with the inside spring end in it's proper hole. Mark a line on both clutch plates that line up with eachother. Then, holding the outside clutch plate stationary, spin the inside clutch plate clockwise, until you have rotated it 60 degrees. You'll now see your rotation because the 2 lines will have separated, and if you pictured an imaginary line from one mark to the centre of the clutch, and the other mark to the centre of the clutch, you will have an imaginary pie shape at an angle of 60 degrees. At this point, press the inside clutch plate down over the spline, let it spin if back if you wish, and install your circlip.[/b]
Take the outside plate of the clutch and lay it down. Place the spring end in the hole it came out of. Then, place the inside clutch plate on top with the inside spring end in it's proper hole. Mark a line on both clutch plates that line up with eachother. Then, holding the outside clutch plate stationary, spin the inside clutch plate clockwise, until you have rotated it 60 degrees. You'll now see your rotation because the 2 lines will have separated, and if you pictured an imaginary line from one mark to the centre of the clutch, and the other mark to the centre of the clutch, you will have an imaginary pie shape at an angle of 60 degrees. At this point, press the inside clutch plate down over the spline, let it spin if back if you wish, and install your circlip.[/b]
Thanks. Could you eplain how to place the Helix on etc while doing all of the turning?
Helix goes over slined shaft.
Comet clutch I think?
Ah crap. I screwed up. You have to turn the clutch COUNTER clockwise. I'm going to take some pictures of clutch reassembly for you. Give you a step by step. I'll be right back with those pics for you.
Ok, here you go. Hope this helps.

In this first picture, you'll see that I've marked my 2 clutch plates, so that I know where they lined up BEFORE I took it apart. It doesn't really matter where abouts you mark them. I just like to have something to go by to let me know if I'm headed in the right direction.


2nd, I removed the circlip that holds the clutch together, and as I lifted off the clutch plate and helix, it turned clockwise. I also marked this position on the outside clutch plate. Also, I marked the hole that the spring goes in on the helix BEFORE removing the helix.


Here I drew an "imaginary" line so that you can understand where the 60 degree thing comes into play. You can see that from the first mark, to where it "unwound" clockwise, is a 60 degree angle.


So to reassemble, place the two clutch plates together and set the spring in the inner clutch plate. Make sure you install the spring into the hole that it originally came out of.
See less See more
4
Then, place the helix in it's place, again making sure the spring is in the proper hole on the helix as well. Place the palm of your hand on the helix, and put enough pressure on the helix to keep the spring from slipping out of the hole, but not so much that you are pressing the helix down into place. With your free hand, you will now turn the inside clutch plate COUNTER CLOCKWISE approx. 60 deg. In my picture, I will turn it until mark "A" goes slightly past mark "B". Then, press down firmly on the helix and HOLD it down tightly. You can now release the clutch plate with one hand, but keep pressing FIRMLY down on the helix to prevent it from comming up and unwinding.


While holding the helix down, use your free hand to re-install the circlip. As you can see, this would be much easier with a friend helping you. But it IS possible to do it on your own. It may just take a few tries.


Good luck, if you need any more help, feel free to ask.
One more thing, I just put things together to show you how it works. My clutch is dissassembled because I have to replace the plastic dogs. They have not been installed in those pictures, and that is why my original marking lines on the 2 clutch plates aren't lining up in that final picture.
See less See more
2
Wow! Excellent explaination. I really apreciate the comprehensive expaination. Thanks Allot!
Would you know how much SIDE to SIDE play in secondary I should have?
I have an alignment tool I just purchased and extra washers to adjust.
Could you explain how to use them for proper alignment.

Thanks allot.
If you mean how much the clutch moves once you've bolted it back on to the jackshaft, then they move quite a bit. I would say about 1/8" of play on the shaft. Because it's a centrifical clutch, it will push itself to the outside automatically. Otherwise, if it didn't, or if you put too many washers between the helix and the frame of the machine, then the washers would rub against the back of the helix and wear it down. This happened to me years ago because I assumed it was supposed to be tight, so I added a few extra washers. It really sucked when I was doing about 40 mph and the spring blew out the back of my helix because the extra washers were wearing the aluminum thin.
As far as clutch alignment goes, that normally is whether or not your primary clutch is straight in respect to your secondary clutch.
I can't remember what the specs are for these clutches. Maybe someone here can give more detailed information. Specs would be good for me too because after pulling and re-installing my engine, I believe my clutches are misaligned as well.
See less See more
The Center Distance Spec is 267-270mm (10.5-10.6 In.)
The offset is 10.5-11.5mm (.41-.45 in.)

Blet specs. New belt 30. mm (1.20 inc)

Also, I have a stubborn secondary. Hard to press Helix down to get Circlip off. Any sugestions?
spin the helix as you're pressing down, but you shouldn't have to press it down to get the cirlip off really. With proper circlip pliers, it should just pop off.

Your specs are different than my machine. My belt new is 35mm. 1.25"
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top