i need more top end on my 2001 mxz 800 .if any one as a good set up please post..i have done some work on the secondary clutch ....just changed the springs ...nothing changed .maybe i am looking in the wrong spot any input would be appricated.
the set up that worked for me was a 200-290 primary with 298 ramps ,18 gram pins.stock gearing is 26/43 ,drop to a 25 t ,you can use the same chain . my sled ran a consistent 115. i also used a different belt #414-8607-00 some people dont like them but i never had much trouble ,it wears quicker but performance has always cost. see ya the doo900..................
Sounds like the RLE restrictor on the '01 is really the thing to do. Wouldn't know myself- stock last year- twins this year. I'd slap one on, though, if I was going to stay with the stock single.
I also thought that sotck clutching sucked (summit). Big John recommended mag/ti arms and a light spring. Made a world of difference. Some don't seem to be of the same opinion, but that's ok by me.
Might try mag arms with a 130/200 spring, 22 gram pins, on 300 ramps. Significant improvement for my sled. Shifted out further- gained about 10mph, less slippage, and my mileage went up. Can't say much for the secondary- I've been using a Cat since I went to the light arms.
F111 151 don't think 22g pins will be enough weight with the mag arm set-up.Panteraone tried with 22.5 g pins and he said he was still pulling 8000rpm with the clicker on 1.I will be trying 23.5g on mine once we get enough snow.
Nope, might not be enough. =) But you surely do know which way to go with it. =)
All my riding with light arms/spring has been done at 8-12K ft. I haven't even tried at low elev. (500-1K ft)- I hardly ever ride where I live! What can ya do when it's 70deg. F in Feb.! All my riding has been done at higher elev. for the last 3 years. I would have started about there (22g)... =) (and hoped)
Only bummer is that I don't think anyone makes adjustables past about 21.6g, huh?
MXZ800, This is a tough one. Usually with the RER, the sleds have a great top end. You need to check your primary clickers and run four different numbers and see what each one tops out at. For example on the same day at roughly the same time, make a top end run and notice your speed. Change the clicker to a lower number and try it again and see if you picked up a couple of mph. If it stayed the same, then go one more number lower, if you go slower or it stays the same, then go one number higher than your starting point, and retest. Try this so that you are in the clicker number that gives you the highest top end speed. This will also usually give you the best overall performance too for most situations except deeper snow and short drags. Also, set your sled for the maximum wieght transfer you can on the rear suspension. When your travelling over 100mph you should have light ski pressure and all the wieght sitting on the track. But, for your sled, you may want to try it with max transfer and then again with little transfer. Pretty soon you will end up with a lot of good testing on your sled and it will run better! Your just dialing it in for your wieght and to make the most top speed. The last thing you want to do is put a power additive in the gas and then run it for top end again. This may get you a few mph by itself. Also, make sure your behind the windshield offering minimum wind resistance. Air Flow over your chest and head can limit the sled by about 5 mph top end.
Once your all set, you will notice that you will dust other sleds in the mid range and top end. Oh, and don't put studs in your track! Studs are a huge speed killer for a stock sled. When all of this is done , then you could even try a different helix from Cudneyracing.com, but I would try that dead last. That way you will see if the helix really helps or not. Good Luck and have fun testing!
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