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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys i am getting a 1.25 full block in a couple weeks for my mxz 700 and i want it to stand on its end off the line, i dont care for losing some top end as long as i got that hard pull for drags and trail riding. So what kind of Clutch and gear settings you got up your sleeves for me.
 

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drop a tooth or two on the top, clutch it to engage a bit higher, and sit on the back
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I know pretty much what to doo but looking for some actual setups from guys.
 

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check your PMs
 

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Drop to a 24 tooth top gear. This will give you some low end grunt! I would leave the clutch pretty much stock unless you want a Cudney kit in it. Good Luck!
 

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192 studs, 21/43 gearing, 280 ramps, 200/350 spring, 19gr pin weight, 52/48 helix wound to 20lbs, flip the stopper blocks up and hang on.
 

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bump up the engagement and use a 280, PX1, or a CF ramp, something that hits hard(look at getting a set of thundershift pins, or something you can vary the pin weight with).     mess with the gearing a little, no use going real low gearing most times, you don't get much more bottom end and the clutching sorta gets messed up. and you loose on top.  just drop two teeth on top, that should be good.      and do like TB2 and use a 52/48 helix or something close, and try a white sec. spring at 18-20 pounds.

one thing though, once you get your sled hitting hard on bottom, your going to start going through belts a little faster.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks guys.
 

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If your looking for a monster wheelie you will have to get rid of the SC-10ll and go for the old SC-10. Believe me it will point straight up. Dont know if it will with an 1 1/4 track but I know it will with an 1 1/2.
Like the rest said about clutching, 53/48 or 53/50 helix, at least 2 down on gears. I would stay with stock ramps and spring and I like a tighter secondary like 25# also stay away from Cudney clutch kits, they just dont work!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I dont want a monster wheelie so to say but i want lots of bottom end and i want it to hook up good, so im now starting to think a 1.25 isint big enough but i dont want to sacrifice too much top end speed.  Its a tough choice to make when you want the best of both worlds.
 

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</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (Mikadoo @ May 14, 2002, 3:28pm)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">...... stay away from Cudney clutch kits, they just dont work![/b][/quote]
I have a Cudney clutch kit and it works very well thank you very much. Everyone has their own devices Mikadoo. \

Ask xc_600 about my Cudney Clutch kit that doesn;t work.
 

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jwheeler,

There are many ways to get bottom end grunt.  We actually had pretty good luck with the 1.25 track with 96 1.375" studs down the middle.  For clutching the above mentioned worked well and so did 298 ramps, 230-410 spring, 54-48 helix and the beige at 19lbs.  Make sure your alignment is good, if its off the sled will be very jumpy.  Stock pins and clicker 2.  23-43 gearing is good for 100+ and gives great hole-shots.

GLH
 

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</span><table border="0" align="center" width="95%" cellpadding="3" cellspacing="1"><tr><td>Quote (jwheeler @ May 14, 2002, 6:59pm)</td></tr><tr><td id="QUOTE">I dont want a monster wheelie so to say but i want lots of bottom end and i want it to hook up good, so im now starting to think a 1.25 isint big enough but i dont want to sacrifice too much top end speed.  Its a tough choice to make when you want the best of both worlds.
[/b][/quote]
I tried a 1.25" Predator (9833) last season and I was very
happy with it! I think it's a perfect happy medium between
the stock lug and a paddle (1.5"+). If I pulled the ACM nut
off the skis were in the trees and once I put my fiance on
the back (105#'s) and we were looking at the clouds when I
clamped it to the bar. Going from the stock track with 192
studs to the 1.25 without, I saw no difference in top end.
I've also heard that the 1.1875" full block tracks work
well!
 
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