When you get around to changing out your track and suspension here are the changes we did to a 1991 Phazer with a 136 x 1.5 inch track to make it run satisfactorily in higher elevations. Note the change in helix.
For single aftermarket Aaen pipe change the primary nozzle in the carburetors to part no. 80L 14489-00-00. This nozzle has a
thru hole which allows the nozzle to draw more fuel to enrich the midrange operation
of the carb. With a pipe it needs more fuel in the midrange or lean seizures result.
A different main nozzle part no. 8Y2 14941-2A-00 may also be put in but I found it to
cause a bog off idle. It's purpose is to enrichen the carb just off idle somewhat. I
think this mod is mainly for a big bore engine and not required for the normal 485 cc
stock engine.
When going to a 1.5" track you will have to change the track sprockets to 7 tooth drivers
instead of the stock 8 tooth drivers to get the clearance that is necessary to clear the
bulkhead. No gearing reduction is necessary as this in effect reduces gearing by 12.5%.
If you don't want to change the drivers then a 1.25" inch track will be the biggest that
you can install.
On our 91 Phazer we have the following setup.
main nozzle - 3A (std)
primary nozzle - 80L 14489-00-00
pilot jet - 95 (stock)
mixture screw 1 3/8 turn out
helix - 39* (88R-17684-00)
primary weight 8VO
primary spring Wht-Lt.Grn
secondary spring Grn-Yel in B-2
Yes.. OLD thread, but I hope you're still around to answer my question. I wish I had ran across this post when I did my track upgrade. Out of curiosity, what is the part # for the 7-tooth sprockets? Where can I find them?
I put a 1.5" Ripsaw track on my 92 Phazer II (121"). I bought the track brand new for $90. The original owner didn't like it on his newer 2000-ish Phazer. His loss, my gain.
Anyway, only the very center lug of the Ripsaw hit the bulkhead just under the steering shaft. There is a small protrusion there. My solution was to nip that tiny piece of the lug that was hitting (approx. 1/4" x 1/4"). Not the ideal solution, but it worked. I had no idea about the 7-tooth sprocket. Wish I did.
My Phazer only had 600 original miles on it when I bought it. Basically not even broken in yet. Since then I've added a reverse box out of a Venture, made my own 3.75" lift brackets, plastic skis, polished the carbs and heads, and upgraded reeds. I want an aftermarket pipe, but they are hard to come by in my area. And when you do find one... people are pretty proud of them. And I don't know much about the clutches and haven't messed with mine. I wouldn't know where to begin to upgrade it. I'm NOT a speedster on the trails, so a stock clutch is probably fine, but I'd welcome advice for any mods.
I'm also rebuilding a 98 Mountain Lite. It had 2 bent connecting rods, but I replaced them. It was my very first crankshaft rebuild! It certainly wasn't easy, but I am a machinist of 30+ years and have all my own tools, equipment and jigs (or made my own), but it still took some effort. Crank building is DEFINITELY a lost art. Those of you that are mechanically inclined and have the tools - you should try a crank job at least once - even if it's an old boat-anchor crank that you don't intend on using. Rip one apart and put it back together and LEARN. I actually had fun doing it.
thanks
