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Discussion Starter #1
I have a '00 mxz 700 sb w/DPM,I bought the sled wrecked last summer and pieced it back together,it seems to have a thick base gasket(actually i think it has 2) so I'm assuming the head has been worked to get comp.back up.It has v-force 2 reeds and looks to be mildly ported(trail ported) I also believe at one time it had pipes on it,due to all the heat reflective tape all over everything.It has been clutched,I dont remember what it had for ramps ,but it had a blue primary spring,and I 'm pretty sure it has a straight 50 helix. I gutted the airbox and put a bender can on the stock pipe,I jetted it to 380 & 390 and raised the needles 1 notch(as per Benoits advice)(they said this setup sounded like it came from the crankshop).This was too rich (fouling plugs) so I dropped ther needles back to center notch,and it took care of the plug fouling.I wanted to run the sled rich,because when I bought it it didnt run,and I dont know where the sled came from,so I just wanted to be safe.  BUT,I know the sled is too rich by the trail of brown smoke it leaves when I hammer on it.(plus my plugs are quite black and carbony)  Does anyone know what jetting setup works best for this application.should I go back to stock jetting?will the DPM compensate for the mods?  I know I'm loosing lots of power,I want to get it back without toasting my buns. I live in central Vt. not sure of altitude,any help would be great!!
 

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It sounds like the jets were for twin pipes. I haven't ripped
my 2000 700 apart in a while, but I believe I'm running
280's in it with stock pipe. I have an aftermarket head,
but my jetting didn't change with it.

Can you read plugs? Piston wash is difficult to read
on these engines in my opinion.

I'd say you are rich - especially with the stock pipe.

I would start working my way down slowly and make
sure you are safe. I'd start on a cool/cold day and
start decreasing the jet size. Take a few WOT and 1/2
throttle runs and read the plugs after each run. You'll
see a distinct change in the plugs (black oily to brown)
when you are close.

Remember that you want to jet safely to the conditions
you will be running in. If you ride in 20 below, then jet
safely for that. Or if you don't mind changing jets on a cold
day, then jet safely for that day.

I don't think the DPM works below 0. Basically, it helps
the sled run better on a warm day by leaning it out. It
doesn't richen it up as it gets colder below 0. I could be
wrong and others will correct me if I am. I don't run DPM
anymore.

With the higher compression, make sure you run good
gas. You can be jetted correctly and get a batch of bad
gas - and you've got burndown. Not fun.

Good luck and post with any questions.
 

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gunner that is correct ,your best bet is jet for 0 degrees and let the dpm lean it out as it warms up.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
zrfam: is that in a recent snowtech? which month was it in?

gunner: thanks for the reply,thats exactly what I want to do,jet for cold so I dont have to change jets all the time.I was just curious if I was way off with my jetting(it sure feels it) but I didnt want to carry a bunch of jets with me and keep changing them untill I get it right(you know how it is when its 20 below and your out there with your hands all gas changing jets) but I guess thats what I gotta to to get it right.Where do you guys run your needles? mine are in the stock position (center notch) right now and it seems alright but I think if I jet down I should raise them back up one notch to compensate for the gutted airbox.
 What were the stock jets in these sleds
Thanks!
 

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the '00 700 w/round slides had 280 mains,I run 260's in my stock sled and 310's in my piped one.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
zrfam: Thanks I'll look it up!
Thanks guys,I had 300's in there when I got the sled,with the mods is has done to it ,they were probably just right.But I"ll still start with 350's or so and work my way down. Thanks again everyone!
 

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the correct temp is -4f,not 0 like I stated.
 
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