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Hey Kid Rocker,

Maybe you can give some advice on my '01 mxz600.  Started playing with the suspension last trip, and here is the way things went.  Started out with rear spring on #3 and ski shocks at #2.  At about 70 mph on the forrest roads could not hold it straight.  Felt like a semi being blown all over the road.  Took center shock to #2.  Took care of most of the squirelies, but then pushed alot in the corners.  Took skis to #4 and was better.  The biggest complaint I have now is the horrible ride with the stutter bumps.  That, and it's just still some what hard to keep straight at high speeds.  So as it sits now, rear #3, center #2, Skis #4, and block uncoupled.  I also notice that when I sit on it, coupler block hit rear block.  I thought it should be in the center. I weigh about 195.

My shocks are ski-doo's motion control.  If HPG's will take out the stutters and run smoother, I'll make the change.
 

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Snowdust, sorry for the delay, just saw the post.  I run my 2000 MXZ with the front shocks on medium to stiff.  Center shock on #2, and rear shock on #2.  I also had my rear shock revalved for a formula Z setting for my weight.  In other words I had my rear shock made softer.  When you hit stutter bumps, I have found that you need to hit them fast and not slow.  At around 20-35 mph, the chassis will pound you some. At 40mph+ it will "skip" accross the bumps.  With the SC10II it likes to hit the stutter bumps more aggressive than at slower speeds, that is the nature of the suspension.  If you read the rode reports also, the test riders seem to say the same thing.  Also, I always "couple" the rear suspension in the trails.  I only uncouple the suspension when I am drag racing.  This might help you with the bumps.   I have tightened up my limiter strap one hole also to help with pushing in the corners.  I weigh about 175-180lbs. and this setup I have found to be the best.   I also put 9 inch carbides on the ski's.  I  didn't think the stock ones were good at all.  I hope this helps, let us know.
 
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