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2 Posts
Hi
I have read several topics here on suspension modifications and there seems to be some concensus and some differing opintions.
I ride a 2002 Polaris Classic Touring 600. It has one of the best ride qualities I have ever ridden but ... The stock track was really poor. I had it dealor studded and had a stud come through the front cooler so at repair time I had an 8 tooth driver cog set installed (for clearance) and an Ice Ripper 1.25" prestudded track. I also had to have the 133" Xtra-12 extended to 136" but the shop left me with many other clearance issues I am having to correct myself. I have installed a tunnel extension and tunnel protectors (God knows why they removed the old ones and did not replace then???), reduced the Idler Wheel size on the top of the suspension from 5.6" to 5" and had the top shock mount moved froward and down to accomodate this. I am still having clearance issues at the rear as the suspension travels to bottom out condition at the rear (slap and damage to the new tunnel extension). What I originally asked the shop to do was lower the suspesion ,which I now must do myself. They said that in that model year only, there was an issue with the mounts being unique, plus the side coolers are mounted under the foot rails (running boards).
I read a discussion about lowering suspension and the parallelagram that must be maintained by loweriig both front and rear mounts togerher ... here is the thing ... the original design was a horizontial seat and that makes for low running board clearance and therefore bad powder running (not enough track preasure on the snow). I really wnat to move the read of the sled up in the air. Also I cannot double up without bottoming constantly.
1. Are there heavier main springs available??? The stock ones have always been too soft for me.
2. I would like to lower the rear only and would like opinions ... can I do it bu moving the rear mounts both down and forward to maintain the exact same distance as the original from front to rear mount points. Would this not effectively just pivot the suspension around a constant circumference circle??? Imaging just undoing the mount bolts and lifting the chassis and then bolting back up to a new location with the chassis higher. The skid would still be horizontal on the ground, the skis would just pivot higher and in fact ski pressure should be increated (a good thing as the sled has always pushed in the corners so i installed U shaped aids to fix this very well).
How about it up and forward, would that work??
Greatfully yours for the input.
Trailmaker
By the way the sled is like a new machine with the Ice Ripper WOW!!!!
I have read several topics here on suspension modifications and there seems to be some concensus and some differing opintions.
I ride a 2002 Polaris Classic Touring 600. It has one of the best ride qualities I have ever ridden but ... The stock track was really poor. I had it dealor studded and had a stud come through the front cooler so at repair time I had an 8 tooth driver cog set installed (for clearance) and an Ice Ripper 1.25" prestudded track. I also had to have the 133" Xtra-12 extended to 136" but the shop left me with many other clearance issues I am having to correct myself. I have installed a tunnel extension and tunnel protectors (God knows why they removed the old ones and did not replace then???), reduced the Idler Wheel size on the top of the suspension from 5.6" to 5" and had the top shock mount moved froward and down to accomodate this. I am still having clearance issues at the rear as the suspension travels to bottom out condition at the rear (slap and damage to the new tunnel extension). What I originally asked the shop to do was lower the suspesion ,which I now must do myself. They said that in that model year only, there was an issue with the mounts being unique, plus the side coolers are mounted under the foot rails (running boards).
I read a discussion about lowering suspension and the parallelagram that must be maintained by loweriig both front and rear mounts togerher ... here is the thing ... the original design was a horizontial seat and that makes for low running board clearance and therefore bad powder running (not enough track preasure on the snow). I really wnat to move the read of the sled up in the air. Also I cannot double up without bottoming constantly.
1. Are there heavier main springs available??? The stock ones have always been too soft for me.
2. I would like to lower the rear only and would like opinions ... can I do it bu moving the rear mounts both down and forward to maintain the exact same distance as the original from front to rear mount points. Would this not effectively just pivot the suspension around a constant circumference circle??? Imaging just undoing the mount bolts and lifting the chassis and then bolting back up to a new location with the chassis higher. The skid would still be horizontal on the ground, the skis would just pivot higher and in fact ski pressure should be increated (a good thing as the sled has always pushed in the corners so i installed U shaped aids to fix this very well).
How about it up and forward, would that work??
Greatfully yours for the input.
Trailmaker
By the way the sled is like a new machine with the Ice Ripper WOW!!!!