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Discussion Starter #1
So I've just extended my sled from 121 to 136, and I'm wondering where to start with the rear suspension set up for this winter.

In theory, the longer rails should mean more leverage, and require stiffer settings. However, the longer track also mean it will bridge bumps better, so maybe it can be softer.

With 25 miles on so far, I'm thinking the softer set up is the way to go. I went out tonight with the end-of-season settings from last year, which were fairly soft, as the trails were nice and smooth by the end of the year. Early season is always quite rough, yet I expirienced no bottoming at all tonight, even when trying to make it bottom on those nasty two foot holes at the bottom of hills where it would often bottom with the shorter track.

The only thing I did notice is that it seems to kick back on the humps if more then it used to if I'm not on the gas. And the shocks aren't rebound adjustable, so I'm not sure what to do about that, other then stay on the gas of course. :p

I'm just curious what suspension changes other people have made after adding a long track kit to their sled.
 

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Only you can decide for sure - but when I had the 121 and 136 Edge sleds side by side, getting off of one and onto the other - I found the setups to be VERY similar. I wouldn't change a thing until you see the need. Just cuz it's a 136 now doesn't mean that much is what I'm trying to say I guess. I did drop a tooth on top, and reset my secondary a little. That's about it.
 

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So I've just extended my sled from 121 to 136, and I'm wondering where to start with the rear suspension set up for this winter.

In theory, the longer rails should mean more leverage, and require stiffer settings. However, the longer track also mean it will bridge bumps better, so maybe it can be softer.

With 25 miles on so far, I'm thinking the softer set up is the way to go. I went out tonight with the end-of-season settings from last year, which were fairly soft, as the trails were nice and smooth by the end of the year. Early season is always quite rough, yet I expirienced no bottoming at all tonight, even when trying to make it bottom on those nasty two foot holes at the bottom of hills where it would often bottom with the shorter track.

The only thing I did notice is that it seems to kick back on the humps if more then it used to if I'm not on the gas. And the shocks aren't rebound adjustable, so I'm not sure what to do about that, other then stay on the gas of course. :p

I'm just curious what suspension changes other people have made after adding a long track kit to their sled.[/b]
hey new the dragon shock are kinda a auto rebound. the higher the klicker the slower the rebound for the first half the travel. they are hollow shaft shock with a center spear that comes up half the body. when the shocks travel down the first half is like a regular shock the cliker controling the flow both ways. after it hits the spear the spear goes into the shaft and only the fliud inside taht shaft can now go into the res. this will create and harder bottom. then in affect when reboudning hte first half it only has to push that sahft directly up so it will be a quick rebound them the other half will depend on the clicker setting aloing the rest of the fluid to tranfer back faster or slower. here is a pick so you can see what im talking about.
 

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I would say look at what the newer switchbacks have for shock settings and go from there, if not I would say just leave it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would say look at what the newer switchbacks have for shock settings and go from there, if not I would say just leave it.[/b]
The new Switchbacks have different shocks from mine.
So far I like the way it is, but I do need to solve the kick back issue.
 

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The new Switchbacks have different shocks from mine.
So far I like the way it is, but I do need to solve the kick back issue.[/b]
try running one lowe spring preload setting hope you on medium right now nadn ot low. and then run the clicker up some. youll have the same dampning but let rebound hopefully.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I think the anser is softer. I've got the spring on their softest setting, and the shocks where they were last year at the end of the season (relativly soft), and I really REALLY have to pound on it to get it to bottom. THis is the roughest time of year, and hitting the roughest trails out there and it doesn't bottom like last year.
I did a trip to Marten River and the moguls weren't nearly as big going that way. THe suspension seemed really dialed in. I'm sure I could get it a bit more to my liking, but I'm not much for fiddeling with the sled when I'm out riding.
 

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So maybe the longer rails are causing it to couple up quicker? Or, was the original block position changed when the conversion was done?

Would also be ineresting to know where they are mounting the rear arms on the new coupled 136". I'm sure you remember that the SKS has always had them to the rear a couple of inches on Xtra-10 136 and Edge 136 rails?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The coupler blocks appear to be in the same spot as they were before. And I even have the couplers set on the softest setting, whereas last year, early in the winter I had them on the stiffest as well.
Actually, I did think about changing the coupling, and I think I'd do that before raising the tension on the spring or increasing compression.

All in all the long track kit rocks, with almost no downside. The sled is, of course, heavier, though so far that's only really noticable in the shop.

The other downside to the longer track is that it's harder to get the whole sled as high in the air, and nailing a 2' square edged bump with another right behind it the track hits the next bump, whereas before I could sail right over stuff like that.

I'm surprised, though, that the balance hasn't changed at all. It flies straight as can be, thankfully, cause I've nailed a few major square edged moguls already that have thrown me, literally, 10 or 15 feet in the air, and sled flies straight and true.

So far so good, though I have to rework the gas can idea. The bolt for the seat chewed through the bottom of the gas can. Luckily I noticed it before it bacame a major hole.
 

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Have you considered moving the rear blocks back a little? I saw a string, somewhere, where the guy had relocated his back on a set of IQ rails. It was necessary to cut the rail to clear the bolt where the rear arm and link meet. He did a really clean job by tracing the original profile of the back side of the existing notch, then transfering it back 3/4" or so. To look at it, you'd swear it was factory. In fact most would never even notice the mod. If I see it again I'll send you the link.

I generally ran the Edges back quite a bit. Enjoyed having the extra transfer available, but even more than that, the extra uncoupled suspension travel available. Just a thought....
 
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