[670HO1]

I have a question for those of you who have relocated your suspension farther back. Did you have to add any material for strength when doing this? I figured because there is a hole there you might need to rivet in a piece of aluminum on both sides.

 

[paul yarek]

670ho,
 what do you mean move the suspension back ?

 

[RFB]

Im going to do the same thing to my Summit. I have talked to Kinetic, (www.kineticinc.net) and they use a plate on their kit. I have seen it done without the plate though.



Paul, moving the suspension back is when you relocate the skidframe back to accomidate a longer track. For example you can move a 136" skid back 2.5" and fit a 141" track using your existing rails. Eliminates the use of flimsy rail extensions.

 

[FIII_Mtn]

I'd use a plate.

 

[AKSUMMITX]

You MUST use a plate.  All the torque transfered from your suspension ends up at this mounting position.  Here is a pic of my 4" setback to accomidate a 144". BTW this is the stock position of the '02 Summit 144's.

 

[AKSUMMITX]

Complete side view.

 

[tbuk2]

you should notice a big difference in powder with the suspension moved back. It lessens the approach angle so you can get on top easier.

 

[670HO1]

I was going to move mine back 2.5 and put on 136 rail extentions so I could run a 141, but if it is safe to just move it back 4 I might as well do that. I just thought that might be a little overkill. But moving the skid back is an awesome solution for me because then I don't have to roll the chain case to get a better approach angle.

 

[670HO1]

So aksummitX you just moved your suspension back 4 inches on your own to accomodate a 144 or did you have to use some kind of template? I could probably make my own plates and stuff and that would be alot cheaper. But I live right next to spokane so I might go check out kinetics stuff.

 

[AKSUMMITX]

I made my own plates and modified a set of Kinetics drop brackets for the stock position to work in the more rearward position.  If I were where you are at I would just use Kinetics stuff.    You will also have to drop down about 3/4" on the front mounting hole as the track will rub on the guards on top of the front arm if you don't.  4" back on your 121 skid wont get you back far enough to do anything, you'll still need extensions or 136" rails.

Unfortunately you will still need to roll the chaincase slightly to get a 2" paddle track in there with 9 tooth drivers. I would not go with 8 tooth drivers on this chasis as they ratchet way to easy for some reason.

 

[FIII_Mtn]

I made my own plates, too. I don't think anyone makes them for the ck3. Mine also extend down onto the running board about an inch and a half. Hopefully, that will add a little strength and help prevent them from bending. Mine are about 12" long, total, but I'm only going back about 4-5 inches. I thought the plates from kinetic were too expensive for what they are, even though they do a nice job.