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Discussion Starter #1
I've installed a M10 in my "1996 ski-doo formula 3 lt" I havent had much problem with the sled in the last month, and now I'm noticing that I have to tighten the track after a couple of hours. It seems like someting is wrong, and yesterday when i studied/worked on the sled i noticed that the right side of the tunnel is starting to twist/bend.

My bet is that the M10 is'nt properly installed, i didn't have any measurements when I installed the M10 last Easter. I was also stupid enough to just install the skid without checking what the measurements should be :confused:



Therefore I'm asking you guys if you have the measurements or know anyone who could have them.

The best would be if you had the whole instruction manual. I would REALLY appreciate it if anyone could give me a kick in the right direction :lookaround:




I've also made my own lenghteners to the rail (121" - 136"), first I innstalled the skid where i wanted it - then i made lenghteners so that the 136" could be tightened. So I am also wondering if the skid have to be placed a certain lenght away from the driveaxle?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
C'mon people, someone gotta know?

I think the only thing I have to know is the lenght between the holes in the tunnel?


I know there is people riding with M10 here, maybe one of you can measure?

PLEEEEASE :inlove:
 

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back in a few[/b]
Your mount holes are probably not where they belong, also if it appears the tunnel is twisting one hole is probably not in the same location as the hole on the other side, most likely on the rear axle. Everytime you would hit a significant bump the skid is going to want to straighten itself out and in turn, twist your tunnel.

I installed an M-10 in my MXZ 670 HO about 4 years ago and have never had any problems. I did use the mount kit for Skidoo DSA. My HO has the S-Chassis, not sure what Chassis the Formule 3 has.

There is a template provided that will give you the proper mount locations and they are based on the distance from the drive axle as well as the top of the tunnel. The mount kit also includes an aluminum plate that runs the length of the mounts on the inside of the tunnel as well as two steel reinforcement plates that mount to the outside of the tunnel. Without this steel plate I'm sure the rear mount holes will start to elongate. The rear axle on the skid is mounted so low on and S-chassis that if you went any lower you would need a drop bracket to put it under the running boards.

I can get you some measurements this weekend, but you should get a mount kit. Without the proper reinforcements you will be having problems down the road. With it installed correctly and adjusted to your weight, the ride will be incredible.

Checkout this link, you can see what the mount kit is like as well as get a visual regarding the approximate location for the mounts.

http://www.dootalk.com/reports.php?rptType=TECH&rptID=8
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanx for the help guys :)

I got two plates that came with the skid(homemade, look like crap), but I've checked with the previous owner and he didn't have any problems. So I'm going to mount them on the outside of the tunnel now and also use them as template. I don't want to buy a mount kit from fast, spent enough money on this sled already.

If this dont work I'm going to mount back the old skid and sell this fu### ####. Both sled and skid that is :christmas: The season is almost done anyways, and I'm getting tired of the old formula, had a lot of problems last winter and a few this winter.



But I'll give it a go, going out to the garage right away. Hope it works :)




Edit: By the way the f-2000 chassis and the s-2000 chassis is the same but other plastic.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Had to mount back the old suspension, found out I had to take the modification later. Been riding the c7 all easter, 11 days or so. It's not what I call comfortable :p

I think I'll get the M-10 back in this summer. You changed my mind snofrog, I don't think I sell the sled yet. Thank you :inlove:
 
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