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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys, lets here some good input, heres the deal, Just bought an 02 ZR 600, just so happens i also got a hold of a 1 1/4 lug track from another guy, he had it on a new sled & studded it with 96, well it ripped & threw a stud out of the center belt of the track & he replaced it & i was able to get it , its like new other than one clean ,square hole where it pulled out, im thinkin of puttin the track on my ZR , it looks like a pretty safe area where the hole is, but what about the other studs ? it is studded only between the slides not on edges... should i leave the remaining ? take a grinder & knock em down a little, or remove them all together? run with holes ? any good ideas, Thanks in advance !
 

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A buddy of mine tried 96 down the center and he too ripped one out. I would add more to it if you want to use it with the studs. 96 just isn't enough for an 800. It may be enough in your 600 but I'd go atleast 120.
 

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Bump it up to 144 studs.

A friend of mine and I both had the 1.25 track (he's was a 440 ZR Sno-Pro, mine a ZR600)

He studded 96 at first and bent a lot of studs his first time out. He added the extras to bump it up to 144 and had very few bends the majority being minor.

I put 144 in mine and bent probably less than a dozen over 4000 miles. Most of them were minor and probably only had to replace about 6 of them.

Putting 96 in a center track for a 100 horse sled is not enough for some trail conditions and riding. We've found the 144 works much better.

Check the backers to see if many are turned or if any studs look loose. Make sure all the studs are in tight enough and add the additional studs.

If your on a budget and don't want to add the extra studs, but I'd add them for safety reasons. . . you could remove the studs and run the track without them.

A 1.25 track is a good track when it's not studded, but will hook up a lot better and stop a lot faster with studs.
 

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I believe you are getting into the danger zone of stud length there--thus the problems. I would pull all the studs out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well , the budget isnt the issue, unless a heat exchanger is in the future, cause the guy i got the track from got to repair his....... i had my 99 zr studded but it had the .075 track, this thing with these 1.25's im not sure ,even with more, sometimes we ride on less than desireable conditions, if it was on 3 foot of base & groomed always i wouldnt care so much, thats why i wanted some ideas & i appreciate them all....... i know the studs are great but the length im not sure ,ive never had anything this long, i even thought grinding them even with the lugs might be safer but then it might spin too much ending up with the same result.............life's a gamble !
 

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I really don't think stud will do much good if they are the same length as your lugs.

Maybe you want to try putting ice screws in the end of your lugs. They're intended for ATV tires but one of the Slednecks videos shows dude installing some. NOt sure how common it is, but it seems like the only option for longer-lugged tracks.
 

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"Well , the budget isnt the issue, unless a heat exchanger is in the future, cause the guy i got the track from got to repair his....... i had my 99 zr studded but it had the .075 track, this thing with these 1.25's im not sure ,even with more, sometimes we ride on less than desireable conditions, if it was on 3 foot of base & groomed always i wouldnt care so much, thats why i wanted some ideas & i appreciate them all....... i know the studs are great but the length im not sure ,ive never had anything this long, i even thought grinding them even with the lugs might be safer but then it might spin too much ending up with the same result.............life's a gamble ! "

Well from our experience (we were using Woody's Golddigger Sno-X) studs. We did have one severe bending problem with one (it may have even torn through) I'll have to ask my friend before posting. But this was when he only had 96 studs and we were running over low sno-condition trails and the trail had stumps on it. Cederville area of the UP. When your running over a bunch of crud a stump could bend a stud, and I suppose a longer one could bend more.

There was some bending even with the 144 studs, but nothing major and many were minor bending amounts 5 degrees of bend. Where they would almost look straight. Like I said earlier adding 144 seemed to help a lot and the ZR440 Sno-Pro and ZR600 SE both used the Preditor Racing 1.25 track running Woody Golddigger studs. I guess trail conditions can dictate how much studs will help.

I suppose if your severly abusing the track and doing extreme riding studs could be a problem on any track. If your friend repaired his tunnel was it due to the one that was thrown out? I'm betting if he had 144 in it, he would have probably not thrown that stud out because the distributed pressure of having more studs would have probably reduced the pressure on that one. But as you said, life is a risk.

Sometimes it's fun to run a track even without studs. The power sliding can be fun. On the plus side if you do decide to remove the studs, the Preditor track will get more traction than many other tracks out there so the power sliding won't be as dangerous as with a lower lug track. I did ride my first year without studs and the Preditor 1.25 is a good track. It's just that under many conditions the studs caused it to hook up so much better, usually when on the trail. Of course for off trail/powder riding, they don't do much . . . that's where the deeper lug helps out.

Whatever you decide to do, your going to have a blast with that track.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well, the thing i liked about studs was the confidence in stopping ability, ya can run down all them ice roads, & hit all the slick corners in the trails & never fear losing it, without ,ya seem to blow one occasionly.......
so... i think im gonna pull em & try it, if its still too loose i can throw em back in easy enough & add 44 or so more, Thanks for all the input !!!!
 
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