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Discussion Starter #1
Looking to pick up an inexpensive sled, going to look at a 1996 Mach 1 670, 2000 MX600, and a 2003 Yamaha SX600. Anything to look for in particular? I have had Yamaha's in the past with great success. Not looking for the fastest, but would like at least 100hp and reliability.

I am in the Chicagoland area, so if anyone is looking to sell something locally let me know!

Thanks all,

marty
 

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My 2 cents..... the 00 mxz 600.
I am a doo fan , but im not saying that because I am .

The 00 doo has the best suspension out of the 3 .
Yami srx are low and heavy, but are fast....would be my 2nd choice.
The 670 is old old school..good sled in it's day though.

Sometimes I wish I still my 00 500(same chassi ) over my 05 rev..just some things I really liked about it:wink:
I loved that sled ... light, quick, trouble free, 9inches of travel in the front 10 in the rear...and it didn't break things when it went upside down :blush:

Last I know of that 500 is still running strong today ...sold it to a member here in 05.

mutt
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks snowmutt! I ended up buying a 97 Ski-Doo MXZ583 with 1900 miles. Its almost as clean as when it was brand new. My last sled was an old Yamaha 440 from the late 70's, I am assuming this will have just a little more oomph :). Cannot wait to get it out.

marty
 

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Good for you ..congrats.

That sled will be a big improvement over that 440. The s-chassi mxz is a fun sled..actually that chassi is what brought doo back in the 90's.
The 583 mill is a strong motor and is one of doo's most dependable they made.
You will find when you ride it that the skid will need adjusting for your wt and riding style. Wt transfer on those models were known as wheelie monsters.
I had the 97 formula 500 dlx...same chassi .

One thing to watch over time is the packing under the tin cover on the pipe ...they tend to loose the packing causing heat loss in the pipe . If you stat to see fibers floating around the engine compartment and the tin starts to come loose ...it;s time to re-pack it .

Also keep the R.A.V.E 's clean (round caps on jugs), this will keep the low end grunt in check.
I clean mine twice a year , once before season and once about mid season if I have had a lot of miles 1500+..and if your running on the rich side.
Be careful there's springs under those caps , undo the 2 screws and pull the slides out of the jug and clean the slots and slides from carbon and oil, they should move easy and smooth.

The primer on those tend to dry up to , sometimes if it's not pumping you can wet the shaft with some oil and it will start pumping again .

Run into any issues don't be afraid to ask

mutt
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I appreciate the input Mutt, I am 6'1" and about 205 pounds. I may bother you for a suggestion on the suspension setting :) I also would like to find a service manual for it, I enjoy doing my own work if at all possible.

thanks again

marty
 

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Look on the belt cover , it has info on setting things up.

Manuals are nice but all your answers are here on boards like this.
Right down to how-to- steps w/ pics.
With a few clicks you can find all you need on the net .

Here's a handy one ... most dealers will have oem parts finder diagrams (fiche) on their sites. When you get into things you can use it as a reference and a idea of price for when you need it.

Just fill in the info and bingo you can see every washer in your sled.

mutt
 
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