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This might sound dumb but here goes...

My aluminum pipe cover on my 02 is falling apart and leaving insulation all over the place... Rather then replacing it, Can I take the cover off and have the pipe ceramic coated? Will it perform any better and be cool enough next to the hood?
 

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This might sound dumb but here goes...

My aluminum pipe cover on my 02 is falling apart and leaving insulation all over the place... Rather then replacing it, Can I take the cover off and have the pipe ceramic coated? Will it perform any better and be cool enough next to the hood?[/b]
Yes, you can take off the pipe cover and have it coated. I would recommend Swain Coating. Then you can paint it any color you want. The idea of the insulation and cover is to keep the pipe hot for best performance to scavage fuel. I have tried both ceramic coating and Swain Coating, my preference is Swain coating. You will probably not get any better performance. You won't lose any performance either. Hope this helps. :D
 

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This might sound dumb but here goes...

My aluminium pipe cover on my 02 is falling apart and leaving insulation all over the place... Rather then replacing it, Can I take the cover off and have the pipe ceramic coated? Will it perform any better and be cool enough next to the hood?[/b]
Qty Part Number Description Price
1 514053192 ENVELOPPE-UPP. $39.97
1 514053193 ENVELOPPE-UPP.RR $14.97
1 514053367 ENVELOPPE-LOWER $39.97
1 514053196 ENVELOPPE-LOW.RR $14.97

Depending on how bad the covers are, you can still get the originals separately and use high temp furnace insulation or Moose silencer packing to replace missing insulation. Would be a little less than Cerama Coat.
 

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The thin bit of insulation is mostly there to keep the heat shield from rattling, it really has very little thermal impact. The key factor is the air space between the sheild and the pipe, and the shield keeping moving air under the hood from contacting the pipe directly, convection heat loss. You could put new pipe clamps around the heat shields and not worry about the insulation, as long as it doesn't buzz too much to bother you.
 

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The thin bit of insulation is mostly there to keep the heat shield from rattling, it really has very little thermal impact. The key factor is the air space between the sheild and the pipe, and the shield keeping moving air under the hood from contacting the pipe directly, convection heat loss. You could put new pipe clamps around the heat shields and not worry about the insulation, as long as it doesn't buzz too much to bother you.[/b]
From a performance standpoint, that's not at all true. The insulation helps to keep the pipe warm and that's very important to the overall performance of the pipe and machine. Do not just remove the insulation.
 

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This might sound dumb but here goes...

My aluminum pipe cover on my 02 is falling apart and leaving insulation all over the place... Rather then replacing it, Can I take the cover off and have the pipe ceramic coated? Will it perform any better and be cool enough next to the hood?[/b]
I had the pipe on my 02 Ceramic coated . I had your same problem
with my pipe! Heres a pic of the finished product! FYI 160 Bucks!

[attachment=37283:Wrench_f...lone_028.jpg]

[attachment=37289:project_MXZX_085.jpg]
 

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Thanks For the pics... Man that looks fantastic!! Im gonna take it over to the guy that powder coated my trailing arms and have him ceramacoat the y and the pipe.

I guess Ill have to get a can too, cuz that just looks awesome :D

Forget melting the hood... It looks so good I might be tempted to take it off!!! w00t
 

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There's a guy over on Doo Talk selling a complete system (1 fast X) make an offer is quoted.
 

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Thanks For the pics... Man that looks fantastic!! Im gonna take it over to the guy that powder coated my trailing arms and have him ceramacoat the y and the pipe.

I guess Ill have to get a can too, cuz that just looks awesome :D

Forget melting the hood... It looks so good I might be tempted to take it off!!! w00t[/b]
Good luck I think you'll be very happy!!! Later Dave
 

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Thanks For the pics... Man that looks fantastic!! Im gonna take it over to the guy that powder coated my trailing arms and have him ceramacoat the y and the pipe.

I guess Ill have to get a can too, cuz that just looks awesome :D

Forget melting the hood... It looks so good I might be tempted to take it off!!! w00t[/b]
please note that most of the flange has been removed from the pipe and re-welded for astetics. yours may look slightly different with the flange still on it . also check the condition of the pipe and y pipe at the connection for wear , no sence in coating parts that will be junk in a shot time
 

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From a performance standpoint, that's not at all true. The insulation helps to keep the pipe warm and that's very important to the overall performance of the pipe and machine. Do not just remove the insulation.[/b]
I agree 100%, if you dont have it coated then the insulation IS a must. I had to re doo my 00zx when the fiber mess started. On the performance end was night and day between no insulation vs's the re-pack. On mine when ever I dumped off into the powder the snow cooled the pipe down and it spit and sputtered till the heat recovered in the pipe.

I used the wool that they use in heat treating ovens or casting ovens, we called it K-WOOL. With you living in the detroit area it should be easy to find .

I actuaully packed mine 1/2-3/4" thick (thicker than factory) to make sure no heat was lossed and to keep the shields from rattling together.

mutt
 

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I agree 100%, if you dont have it coated then the insulation IS a must. I had to re doo my 00zx when the fiber mess started. On the performance end was night and day between no insulation vs's the re-pack. On mine when ever I dumped off into the powder the snow cooled the pipe down and it spit and sputtered till the heat recovered in the pipe.

I used the wool that they use in heat treating ovens or casting ovens, we called it K-WOOL. With you living in the detroit area it should be easy to find .

I actuaully packed mine 1/2-3/4" thick (thicker than factory) to make sure no heat was lossed and to keep the shields from rattling together.

mutt[/b]
I can get the k wool at work. I use it to insulate an open furnace door thats at 1600f from me and it works great.
 

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That k-wool sounds like fantastic stuff. I was lead to believe, and seemingly wrongly so, by some sled techs, that the fibre packing was not necessary. I took the heat shield off my pipe to clean and paint it. I found no packing, or reminents of any, and when I asked for some at the dealership they also said it was not necessary, and there was no part number for it. It is absolutly critcal to maintain optimum pipe temperature for maximum performance. The speed of sound inside the pipe is dependent on the internal temperature and it is the acoustic shockwave returning from the end of the pipe that is used to retain fresh intake charge in the cylinder before the piston closes the exhaust port. The internal pipe temp is a critical factor in the tuning of the pipe and maintaining peak performance.

My understanding was that heat shield worked primarily by reducing convection heat loss to the moving air under the hood and by reflecting the infrared energy back into the pipe. Reflection should be the primary factor in how the ceramic coating functions. On the newer sleds, after closer examination, it appears that the shields are much lighter weight material. My guess is their primary job is to hold and protect the high temp fibre packing. I wonder where I can get some of that fibre material and pull my pipe apart again to add some extra heat retention to my exhaust. Hmmm? Thanks for the good info!
 

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look in your local phone book for ( refractories refractory or heat treat ) I just looked these up real quick in SK

MAX REFRACTORY SERVICES
422 3rd St
Estevan, SK S4A0P2 (306) 634-8210
View our... Web Site | Map

Max Refractory Services
Cellular Telephone
Estevan, SK (306) 421-6473
View our... Web Site

Max Refractory Services (Duane Cellular Telephone)

Estevan, SK (306) 421-0253
View our... Web Site

RHI Canada (Winnipeg MB)
Call No Charge
(888) 273-2077


RHI Canada Inc (Winnipeg MB)
Call No Charge
(888) 273-2077


Vesuvius Canada
2111 Industrial Dr
Regina, SK (306) 545-5677
 

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I belive the insulation came with the shields as a kit , but not for sure and if I remember right you can order just the insulation seperate from INGLES. COM . You also can use header wrap for race cars , really anything that will hold up to 1200 + degrees will work.

I notice on my 05 the Y pipe has a shield on it w/ fiber under it. When I get to pulling my pipe this year I think I will put a thin layer of K-WOOL on top of the factory stuff , just for a bit more of heat retention and to keep the shields from rattling.

Another thing to really look for while it's apart is .. look over the Y pipe real good for holes and cracks in the seams . Some of the doo's have had pin holes causing a lean condition and opps there goes a piston.

Sealing the flange and having good in tight springs also will help , plus it helps cut down on the oil blow by mess under the hood .

mutt
 

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I think snofrog has the best idea. call some refractory people they should have it.
 

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look in your local phone book for ( refractories refractory or heat treat ) I just looked these up real quick in SK

MAX REFRACTORY SERVICES
422 3rd St
Estevan, SK S4A0P2 (306) 634-8210
View our... Web Site | Map

Max Refractory Services
Cellular Telephone
Estevan, SK (306) 421-6473
View our... Web Site

Max Refractory Services (Duane Cellular Telephone)

Estevan, SK (306) 421-0253
View our... Web Site

RHI Canada (Winnipeg MB)
Call No Charge
(888) 273-2077


RHI Canada Inc (Winnipeg MB)
Call No Charge
(888) 273-2077


Vesuvius Canada
2111 Industrial Dr
Regina, SK (306) 545-5677[/b]
Thanks for the tips. Estevan is a long way from here, but I should look into places that work with boilers, industrial mechanical contractors might have a suggestion for me. If our pulp and paper mill was still operating I might have been able to find that type of material out there.
 

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Thanks for the tips. Estevan is a long way from here, but I should look into places that work with boilers, industrial mechanical contractors might have a suggestion for me. If our pulp and paper mill was still operating I might have been able to find that type of material out there.[/b]

there were 30-40 hits for refractories in the sk yellowpages I just cut/pasted a few to give an idea
 

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there were 30-40 hits for refractories in the sk yellowpages I just cut/pasted a few to give an idea[/b]
30 -40?! I only got 7 listings, the same page as what you posted. I better try a different search.
 
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