[blaise]

The last few times I have tried to pull my primary clutch off, I have been having a real hard time.  After pounding on the end of the puller with a hammer and using a breaker bar it will usually come off after a while, except for this last time.  I was using the breaker bar and the end of the puller snapped off!  After hours of drilling, I finally got it with an easy out.  But I do not want to go through that again.  It is almost like the fixed sheave is rusting on to the crank shaft.  Everytime I take it off I clean them really well.  Has anybody had this problem?  Is there any solutions for this.  I  wonder  if I placing  a little never sieze on the crank shaft will help (even though the shop manual say not to)?  Anyone have any opinions??

 

[mr670]

I bet your problem is with the threads in the clutch. They are probaley damaged and the puller you have been using and hammering on caused the problem. A clutch puller should have the threads lubed with oil every time you  use it. You should be able to screw it in by hand till it contacts the end of the crank.

 

[dino]

blaise: Never use anything on the crank taper or the clutch. Use a Skidoo puller not aftermarket, always lube threads, and never use a impact wrench. Dino.

 

[machman]

Put 3 pumps of grease from your grease gun into the bolt hole first and then thread in your puller. Use an impact gun and it will pop right off. This has always worked for me even when I couldn't get the clutch off any other way.

 

[ballsout1]

Dino,theres alot of dealers out there using impacts, but I supposed its not the best idea, there are alot  of clutches that dont come off textbook and when that happens I guess its a new story.  Alot of people are using impacts just as a matter of  procedure, not being sarcastic (not anymore than usual) but you  have had to wack a puller with a hammer, Right?

 

[GC motorsports]

my 2 cents is that I never use an impact or even wack it with a hammer, just use a big cheater pipe on the wrench if necessary - shock loading - bad thing, a hammer is just a very slow impact wrench.

as far as pullers go, if it breaks it was bad to start with, bad material, to hard, or poor design, make sure the threads are clean and smooth, and like suggested it should screw in all the way to the crank with just your fingers.  If it doesnt, you galling your clutch threads and putting excess torque on the puller, oil on the puller threads help reduce required torque even more.  Some aftermarket pullers are better than the OEM, but be careful in choosing one or you will get practice on using your easyouts.


No never seize on the shaft, just make sure its clean and dry along with your clutch and re-torquing your clutch is has a lot of affect on how it will come off.  Make sure you do it according to the book.

 

[kid rocker]

blaise, take it to a dealer or machinest and have them "clean" out the threads with a tap.   Then, buy a new clutch puller, and put anti-sieze on the threads of the puller only.   Only torque to 70-74 lbs.  GC Motorsports is correct, the puller was probably bad to begin with.  It was probably an OEM like I had.   Mine broke also, and I paid $29.00 for the stupid thing.  Zwannabe on this forum and I spent 3 hours drilling with different size drill bits to get the dang thing out.  In my opinion the OEM puller was "not" manufactured correctly.   Remember, that Ski-Doo does not produce their own pullers.  Therefore, I purchased a new puller from www.Paddlegrabber.com.   The owner of this company, worked for John Deere for quite some time and knows his steel tempering.   I have a great respect for this product, and know I will never have a problem.  Heck, he even guarantees the thing for 1 year.  No questions asked.   The best thing is, he gets $25.00 for the tool, and guarantees it.   Ask Zmachman  which puller he uses and I will bet it is the same one.   Give Dan a call at (920) 418-0172, telll him Dave sent you.

 

[dino]

ballsout1: I never use a impact gun or hammer to remove the clutch or flywheel on any two stroke engine. The reason being its easy to knock these built up cranks out of alignment and cause bearing problems somewhere down the road. One more thing the closer the taper on the crank and the clutch are to spec. the harder it will be to remove, if you have a close to perfect blue-up all you have to do is push the clutch on and try to pull it back off and I'll bet you will need a puller. Dino

 

[blaise]

The puller I used was OEM (529 022 400).  I always use the installation procedure in the shop manual - "Torque screw to 77 lbf.ft, accelerate at intermediate speed and apply brake. Repeat five times. Reduce the screw torque to 63 lbf.ft then, retorque to 70 lbf.ft."  The threads are clean and the puller screws in nice and easy.  I also keep both the fixed sheave and crank taper really clean.  Dino, you are right.  I must have a really close clutch/crank taper spec.  If I push the clutch on by hand I need the puller to take it off again!!

 

[dino]

blaise: Thanks, finally someone who agrees, boy doo we need snow.

 

[Fast Mach Z]

Ok, as usual, I went where others are afraid to go. I had my clutch popped off with an impact. Then I put a very small dab of anti sieze on it. Put it all back together and started it up. Hmmmmmm....... somethings not right. GEEZ OH PEETS!!! the clutch is coming off!!!!! Shut down the motor real quick, waited for a minute for that sucker to quit spinning (at 4000 rpm!&#33

and pull the clutch off, clean off all the anti-size and reinstall. VERY carefully, I started it up and rode it around the parking lot. Everything checked out ok. So, the moral of this story is No Anti-Sieze! Yup, I had the pleasure of doing all of this in the Econolodge parking lot in Gaylord. So, I learned a lesson, I have a new impact from Sears!

 

[318]

You know what I do to prevent a problem? I leave the fixed half of the clutch on the sled. When tuning, I just take off the moving half and Gov. cup. I just keep an eye on the alignment when I put it back together.