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Discussion Starter #1
THis is my first post and would like to say that this is a great info for Ski-doo owners.

What i would like to know is How much trouble is it to take off the primary clutch. I can't imagine what it is like to take off, or where to start. You see, i was out riding for the first time on my "new" 99 MXZ600 that i bought with 4000KM's just a month ago. Well it looks in great condition but when i took er for a ride the clutch stuck half way in because the weights stuck out full open. The clutch wasn't fully squeezed together cus the belt wasn't to the top of the sheeves. After i freed the weights the clutch sprang back to position but i can grab the sheev and move it from its normal stopped position to an additional 1.5 inch larger. To put it in perspective you could fit almost two belts at the bottom of the clutch when pulled apart by hand. it don't depress anyfarther than normally stopped position. My question is do anybody have any idea whats going on, and two, what would happen if i just uncrewed the main bolt on the primary clutch?

Thanks in advance.
 

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You need a clutch puller. Taking the bolt out will not let
you take the clutch off. You then screw in the puller
and torque it down until you hear a loud bang and off
pops your clutch. You'll also need a tool to hold your
clutch as well.

You might be able to unscrew the bolt and just pull
the sliding half off as well.

I don't understand what is going on. You can pull the outer
sheeve and it seems like you can fit two belts in there?
I don't see how that's possible with a stock clutch unless
the bolt broke. Otherwise, the governor cup should prevent
it from moving any further out. I don't think there is 1.5 inches
between the governor cup buttons and the bottom of the
sheeve.

Is it a stock clutch?

I had a bushing go once that made it seem like it was in
high gear. It almost seemed like the primary spring went.
Does your outer sheeve have spring tension?
 

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Gunner is right, you need a puller. You probably lost a screw to the govenor cup. This is the cup that holds the spring compressed. If the screws back out it will catch and cause the exact symptoms you have described.

GLH
 

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i have a formula z 700 and the primary stuck in couldn't stop i pulled the main bolt out and the outside part of the clutch came off. as they mentioned there is a cup with a spring the three little screws fell out.

be very careful putting it back together it is a prettystrong spring.

i am lucky i work in a repair shop we have a press i held it together in and put the screws in ducked down and released the press everything held together so away i went

make sure you get everything together good!! you don't want anything flying off that clutch spinning at 8000 rpms
 

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Sounds like to me that some people should leave the clutch work to the experienced. :nervous:
At least have someone show you how to properly do it.
Next time you take your sled into the dealer for a clutch service, ask to watch what is being done. They should not have a problem showing you since it is your sled and your money paying the bill.
Take notes(writen or mental). Then go and buy the PROPER tools and try it for yourself.
Me, a friend of mine works at a dealer and he showed me how to do it.
I was surprised on how easy it was.
 

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Labrador: I had the same type of situation happen on my wifes sled. The bolt on the clutch came loose and allowed the weights to come out past the stop. I towed it back in ane tightened the bolt to 78 ftlb, rode for about 5 miles and re-tightened. I checked to make sure it was at 78 ftlb before riding for the next 3 or 4 times untill I was sure it stayed tight. : :)
 

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Hardcore - I think labrador just bought the sled used a month ago. He didn't try working on it himslef.

labrador - I would not run the sled till it is checked out. If the bolts loosened up hlding the spring cup on, there is probably some damage in there. A damagaded clutch is just a grenade waiting to blow. Very dangerous if something is cracked or out of bablance. Take it to a dealer and have it checked out!!!!

It could be as simple as a broken Pri spring also.

Also, I have broken the end of the fixed shaft before. This might be like that, and the bolt is still hanging on the thread. Anywas, sounds weird. Have it checked!! For your safety, and your crankshaft's safety!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
thanks guys for your posts, but i was told by someone that you don't need a puller, thats just for taking the inner sheeve off, they said that theres little threaded screwholes in the black cover on the Helix. That you take off the main bolt, then screw in these screws to slowly haul out the helix which is pressed in.... is this correct or not?
 

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Labrador - You said in your org. post that the primary was the one that is broken, now you are talking the 2ndary.

As far as taking the primary off, it should come off all the way every time the bolt comes out. It is important that the clutch be seated every time it is tightened. If you loosen, then retighten to spec, there is a chance than the primary might start to slip.

Like I said, I would inspect everything before starting the sled again. I have seen clutches break and take out cranks, beelypans, hoods, footwells, etc... be safe.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
well well well, not very often this happens. Im actually posting my follow up awnser to my original question. So for all who is interested this is what happened. Oh and to 800MXZ, I was talking about my drive clutch, I know I know, the driven clutch has that threaded hole, but i couldn't remember if the drive clutch had any, and when i posted my second responce i was at "work".

So anyway, the winner goes to boondock, because he actually got the awnser right to my problem. The reason the outter sheeve was able to move back and forth at stop, and the reason the weights were sticking when i drove it was due to...... you got it, the [email protected]#K$#G bolt came loose which in turn caused the helix to move out too far. When i went to take the bold out, alls i had to do was wrap my arm around the clutch and turn the bolt with my wrenches and it just came off, NO PULLER.

My advise to all of you is this, NEVER USE A PULLER to take off your clutch, unless you want to remove the stationary sheeve. But to work on the clutch itslelf (spring, weights, boots, slides, etc) just remove the bolt and its SOOO easy, first time I ever took off either clutch and worked on it and it was a piece of cake.

Now i know that my helix was already loosened by the riding with a backed off bolt, but im sure if you use a rubber hammer or something to loosen up the outer sheeve, it will come right off in your hand. Thanks to all who responded.
 

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Everyone is becoming confused because you talk about
your helix and the primary. Your helix is in your secondary
clutch.

You also can't make the claim to never use a clutch puller
because there have been times that I couldn't even take
the sliding half off without the puller. I probably remove my
clutch 25 times a year and have seen this happen quite
a few times.

The other thing is sometimes its difficult to see how the clutch
goes back together without the fixed part of the clutch
off. Remember, these clutches are marked accordingly (
each piece) and only go back a certain way. You'll see arrows
and markings that need to be aligned.

I would also suggest that you purchase Aaen's clutch tuning
book if you are really interested in getting to know your
clutches. It gives you the basics and theory behind clutching
in general and isn't that expensive. Ski-doo's manuals
(either shop or racing) also have a pretty good explaination.

Good luck and we are here to help you learn.
 

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OUCH: :( Hate the thought of you using a rubber hamer on the Clutch...Believe me the $40.00 bolt puller on the clutch is cheaper than my buddy spent on a new clutch of, well he got a rebuilt one for $275.00.. Buy the puller and thank you for letting us know what you found as the problem on your clutch!!! :thumbsup:

Yea....No body is ever to old to learn....especially from each other....and our own mistakes
 

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Discussion Starter #13
OH FUDGE!!! i think i put my clutch back together wrong, well, kinda wrong. After cleaning the clutch, i noticed that the outer part had these arrows on certain pieces, so i aligned them up. but didn't notice anything on the stationary part of the clutch.... after reading Gunner's last poste im thinking i made a mistake. Is there anything telling you how to align the outer sheeve to the inner sheeve?
 

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Yes, all the pieces have alignment marks on them.

On the fixed sheave, its on the back of it or near the
outer edge. On my 2001, its on the back. I believe
my 97 had a V marked on the outer edge.

The govenor cup has an arrow on it. The sliding
half also has a mark. Just make sure they align.

Shouldn't be a big deal. Pull it apart and try again.
 

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I dont mean to be rude but what the hell are you doing !!!

I have never been so confused in my whole life. One minute you are talking about your primary clutch, then you mention your helix.
For gods sake man, get some professional help.
That clutch can be a deadly weapon if it comes off or apart at 8000 rpms.

If you want to learn, let a professional show you first !!!
 
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