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Discussion Starter #1
Question - What is a good way to clean the carbon off the rave valves? This is the first time out and it was a chore to get them out. Should I use mineral spirits or palmolive dish soap?

Also I would like to drain the chaincase oil, but I can't get the set screw to turn. I'm to the point of stripping it. Would like to know what should I do? Pul the cover off and have a huge mess in the belly pan or drill it out and put in a new insert. ???
 

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The drain plug is a SAE allen key, not metric, if that's the reason it's stripping on you. Use solvent or a wire wheel on a grinder to clean the valves.
 

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To clean the valve I use brake cleaner and some fine steel wool, works really well. As
far as your chaincase cover, take it off it will be easier to work on it that way. Don't worry
about the oil spilling it's not that hard to clean up. Plus it gives you a chance to visually
inspect the insides of the chaincase. Ihave an HO and it doesn't even have a drain plug
so I have to take the cover each time I go into the chaincase. It's abit of a pain but at least
my chaincase doesn't get neglected.
 

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Use a decarbonizer ( intake cleaner ) and a wire brush or a wire wheel on a bench grinder just go easy you don't wanrt to damage the valve.
 

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Take the chain case cover off so you can clean out all the metal shaving and gum
up on it. Check the chain for any broken links after cleaning it and also check
the condition of the gears. Reassemble and reset chain tension then your done.
For the RAVE valves, if it's caked on you might try a steel wheel on a Dremmel
tool to clean and polish the valves. Soak in brake cleaner or Acetone to losen
the build up. When reassembling, make sure valve is right side up or you can
cause some serious damage. Also make sure the small pressure hole is lined up
from the jug to the gasket to the valve housing. After reassembly of valves,
rotate the motor over by hand using the primary and make sure there is no
contact with the valves and the piston.

On the chain tension, tighten by hand till snug, rotate secondary back and forth
to take out remainder of slack and line up with nearest hole for the cotter pin.
Recheck tension after a couple of rides.
 

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If you have access to an oil pump, or drill type pump, drain the oil from your chaincase first, before cracking it open. Will make the mess much less.

For raves, wire wheel, and carb cleaner works for me. Scotchbrite pads work well also.

FishHog
 

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To minimize the mess with the chaincase, turn the machine on its side. Remove the chaincase cover and proceed with your work. If you wish to change the oil, place a plastic tub under the case, and then set the machine back down on the ground. Most of the open chain case oil will flow into the tub. However, I've never had a problem with the drain plug, and even then, it still makes a mess.

As far as the RAVE valves, acetone or oven cleaner (yes, oven cleaner) works well. Use very fine steel wool. I would stay away from wire wheels, you can really f#@& them up if you are not careful. Remember to put a little oil on them, don't put them in dry, or them may stick. Also make sure you have the proper size zip tie for the rubber boot and do not go hog-wild tightening the plastic caps as you can break them.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for all the suggestions. I did the oven cleaner thing its works great. The drain hole I'm still working on. The belly pan (after hitting something hard in this spot ) is pushed up tight against the chaincase and would like to take all this apart and push it back down. Riding in cornfields with little snow doesn't help matters.
 

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I would forget about using the drain plug, just hoist the sled on its side, remover chain cover, soak up chain oil with paper towels, inspect, re-instal. Use a good quality chain oil, like Klotz, Amsoil, Maxima, etc.

As far as the rave valves, simple acetone, any solvent, and a scotch brite pad and some elbow grease, is all it should take, If they are that gummed up, I would look at higher frequency for RAVE inspections, or change to a high performance synthetic.



Last edited by DanR at Oct 15 2002, 08:41 PM
 

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Scotchbrite pads and some carb cleaner worked for me.
 

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On a slightly different note.......I`ve seen people at the drags just puttin the sled on the side and not losing jack for oil, swapping gears and well you guessed the rest.
 
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