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Discussion Starter #1
I've got to stiffen up the back of my ZLSS.  the thing squats 7 or 8" when I sit on it.  The Cat manual gave a suggestion table for left & right cam adjustment vs. rider weight.  For my weight, it said to set the left cam at 1, and set the right cam at 3.  A buddy said that not having both sides set the same could cause the sled to pull (I assume it would be because the sled would have a tendancy to tip toward the soft side?) and that I should try setting both at the middle setting.

Any opinions on this?  Also, what's the proper procedure to set them?  The cat manual didn't say how.  Do I just use a pry bar to move the spring up, and turn the cam, then set the spring back into it?  Thanks for helping the newbie.
 

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I always thought you should set them the same also. All I can say about that cause I was wondering myself is to experiment with them and see. I saw that in my manual and was wondering, but with my wt. it says to set both on 3 I think. There is a proper way to adjust them though. If you do it wrong you will or shall I say can (most likely) break the cam. You always have to go the same direction, I believe it is away from the spring which should also be from low to high. Don't go backwards. I have seen many people including myself learn the hard way and break the cam in two. Hope this helps. Let us know if you do any experiments with them not set the same and the outcome.
 

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The cams are supposed to be set the same on either side.  Always turn the cams towards the end of the spring or you will break it.  I.E. if you are on the left side of the sled turn the cam clockwise, if you are on the right side of the sled turn it counterclockwise.  If your sled still drops down more than you like when you sit on it you might want to look into getting stiffer springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I was just enlightened by a buddy that said all I have to do is turn the cam.  I was under the impression that I had to remove the spring pressure (i.e. the crowbar) but apparently not.


I'm going to try going to the middle setting on both sides,and if Idon't like it I'll go right to the stiffest.  After driving an IROC and a GTA around all the time, I'm sorta used to a stiff ride.
 

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Jim, i'm currently working on the same problem @195lbs and moderatly agressive riding style here are the results:           set: R-1 & L-1 = harsh ride, hard bottoming, push in turns
set: R-2 & L-2 = ok ride but easy to bottom, ok in turns
set: R-3 & L-1 = light bottom on the big nasty ones, front darts, in real light powder the rear seems to track to the right on acceleration(problably due to the uneven spring tension)
set: R-3 & L-2 = no bottoming & bucks on the big bumps, lots of darting in front
set R-3 & L-3 = super harsh & bucks on even little acceleration bumps
my opinion is the springs should be set equal, to reach the same setting i was told to move the position of the linkage @ the slide forward one hole(be shure to move limiter bolt forward also) this should allow me to use #2 settings(i hope)
to elimiate darting loosen the front springs equaly 2 turns @ a time until riding preferance is achieved. currently i'm adding 192 pics w/8"carbide runners & the new spring set up.
peace out
 

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Jim, I'm having to experiment myself w/new ZR800...I'm 225lbs.  Have been riding Cats since '80 (the good old rough days) and I've always read that both sides have to be on the same setting.  As far as how, you always go from the current setting to the next highest 'til you get the setting you want; for example, if it's on 2 and you want 1, you have to go to 3 first, and so on.  Like 02ZR500 said, the spark plug socket should do the job.
If your book is missing this portion, call the dealer.  Every manual Cat puts out is supposed to have this info and info on the limiter strap, which you may also have to adjust 'til you get it the way you want it.  I have to adjust mine to put more pressure on the skis so I don't have to ride up on the gas tank in the turns.
If you want me to fax the pages from my manual, let me know.
Jim
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Wow.. good info!

Jim, my book is complete.  I just didn't feel that their description was adequate, at least for me.  I'm totally new to sled technology, so whatever part of it varies from car technology is a completely new world for me.
 

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That's the great thing about a forum like this...where else can we have thousands of friends instantly with the same interests.
 

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I also have a 600zlss and it was way to soft for me @260lb's
I bought a pair of stiffer springs, only had to wait 4 months for them. I can't beleive we can buy a new sled and not get the dang parts we need. Anyhow after putting the new springs on, it's still to soft. I put on 2000 miles now so I took the shock apart. I rebuild them myself.. I changed the valving a little to help. After recharging the shock I noticed a small leak on the remote cap ( the place where you fill it up) It has a small crack called porosity in it. I beleive it was always bad
and the Nito leaked out right away.Now I will most likely have to pay for new cover as I fixed it myself.I will let you all know after this weekend.. Hope to put another 500 miles on in the U.P.  Later........
 

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Well I put another 600miles on er this weekend and changing the valve really didn't do anything. It turns out that it's already valved so tight that I can't really get it tighter. Most of the valves in the compresson are 1.3x.016 and thats REALLY TIGHT.  I guess if I want the more agrressive ride I need to back to the ZR600 (oh they don't make on anymore) that really sucks for me.........
 

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Both springs do not have to be set the same.  I have set them different for the last 4 years and never had a problem.  It was first thought of by Kirk Hibbert and he ought to know.  Make sure you do not use a rachet when you set them or the things will snap when you get them about half way to the next position and you will break the plastic blocks.  Use a "T" handle and when they get past center you can slowly let them down without breaking them.
 

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Zrttim, the valving on the ss rear susp. is not supossed to be changed.with you changing it the computer is trying to compensate. The only adjustment on that rear supension is with spring adj. There is an adjustment on the bender vavle in the compter part but it is only adjusted when out of spec. I think your big problem was the leaking cap you found,I have seen 2 of those this year.
 
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