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Discussion Starter #1
I have rebuilt a few regular shocks but never the remote resevoir or clicker or dial adjust. I am going to try it since I have the manual and everything. Is there any good pointers anyone can give me. It looks like it is just more time consuming and messy. Looks like you waste a lot more oil. What is that other tool they talk about needing, I think they say you need it for the clicker shocks. Its like a three letter tool. I can't remember the name of it. I have the needle, the shock holder blocks, gauges, nitrogen and oil. Depth gauge too. I just can't figure out what that other tool is for. I think its to get the floating piston out. But why can't you just use needle nose like in some of the others. Any pointers greatly appreciated. :blahblah:
P.S. the new smilies are great.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
So nobody has done any shock rebuilds on this type of shock or are there just no good tips? :hallo5:
 

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They are no harder than the regular shocks. Remove gas, push in cap, remove clip ring, and clean. I believe the floating piston depth is around 1.75, I would have to check my manual to be certain. I know I posted the depth's on SW in the past.

When filling back up, you have to pump the shock to get the air out of the presure line. Then presurize to 200lbs (I think)

If you have the quick adjust rear shock, they are a little harder. I would suggest that you only rebuild the shock. Chances are the oil in the adjuster is fine. At least everytime I have rebuilt them, I wasted my efforts replacing the oil in the adjuster. When you assemble, loosen the adjuster all the way and pump the shock to get the air out.

newf
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Originally posted by newf@Oct 15 2002, 04:49 PM
They are no harder than the regular shocks. Remove gas, push in cap, remove clip ring, and clean. I believe the floating piston depth is around 1.75, I would have to check my manual to be certain. I know I posted the depth's on SW in the past.

When filling back up, you have to pump the shock to get the air out of the presure line. Then presurize to 200lbs (I think)

If you have the quick adjust rear shock, they are a little harder. I would suggest that you only rebuild the shock. Chances are the oil in the adjuster is fine. At least everytime I have rebuilt them, I wasted my efforts replacing the oil in the adjuster. When you assemble, loosen the adjuster all the way and pump the shock to get the air out.

newf
Thanks newf. Yeah I got the depths from somebody else. They are 3 in. on my cross country. That would explain why she is a ditch banger. Thanks for the tip on the clicker. That was the one I was worried about. So you can do just the shock and not get air trapped. Thats cool.
My buddy works for a shock company and we are going to do them at his work, but they don't do much remote resevoir stuff. Thanks. I knew somebody had to know something about them. :p :D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hey newf,
When you were talking about the rear shock, did you mean the dial adjust from the handle bar portion or the rear rear with a remote resevoir clicker adjust.
 
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