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:crazy: Hey y'all I need some help on how to change the crank shaft seals on my 1978 Skidoo Everest 440. I can't seam to figure out how to get the clutch off the shaft. I have removed the lock tab and bolt from the end, but now I don't know if the clutch is pressed onto the end or screwed on. I have tried to feed string down a cylinder and then torque the clutch but it does not seam to loosen up (turning counterclockwise). Next I tried a crowbar against the ring gear and block but it wouldn't budge either. Does anyone have advise on how to get this thing off? Surely, I don't have to split the block appart, do I????
 

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go to your after market sled store or your ski-doo dealer with year, model, engine size and buy a clutch puller bolt. if i was you i,d take the sled there and get them to do it. ask nice to watch them.
 

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Would you mind posting how it went changing your crank seals when you get it done? I have picked up a sled the same as yours and need to also do crank seals.
I would be interested to hear how it went. This will be my first time working on a twin instead of a single rotax.
Thanks Matt
 

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take the clutch retaining bolt out and find a bolt that screws into the end of the clutch. the shorter the better. drill it out lengthwise to fit a grease zerk, thread the zerk into the bolt, thread the bolt into the end of the clutch, pump it full of grease until the clutch pops off. it is a little messy but costs almost nothing.
if you feel guilty for being cheap you could always send the 25 bucks it would cost for the puller, but it would be better spent on your sled.
 

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I take the bolt that comes out and use it as a template,,, get a grade 8 bolt just a tad shorter than the bolt that comes out,,, (not the same size), you want the stud size just big enough to fit in the clutch,,, then take a hack saw and saw the head and about 1 inch of it off,,,,then it should slide right into the clutch and be about an inch short,,,, then get a bolt that will fit into the threads of the clutch,,,, start to tighten it in and watch the clutch come off,,,,

make sure the bolt you get for the inside is a grade 8,,, you do not want a cheap bolt and end up having it bend inside the clutch on you,,,,,
 

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Where you ever able to get your clutch off?
I ended up buying a puller for my 78 Everest 440 clutch and I had to heat the clutch up with a heat gun. I did come off though and I changed my crank seals.

Now all I have to do is get the two pieces that make up the fan housing that goes over the heads so that it cools better.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Yeah, I got the clutch off. I bought the tool and it bent a little bit. The clutch did come off though. I used a 3/4" impact on the SOB, but it came off. I had saturated the shaft with penetrating oil about a day in advance. That clutch has probably never been off the shaft so there was about 26 years of rust freezing the two together.

The project is not done. Surprisingly the seals were in pretty good shape, so I removed the bottom half of the engine block and found my problem. About 6 years ago I resurrected the old sled that had set with a melted piston since 92. After rebuilding the top end, I poured some fresh gas in the tank and started it. About 3 minutes in, all the old sludge in the tank went through the carb and into the engine and it basically stalled the engine. I spent weeks cleaning the carb fuel pump and intake. I also took and cleaned the cylinders as best as I could.

I had absolutely no idea that all that crap had made it to the bottom end of the engine. I was a major clean up. I soaked the crank, for about a week and then took 3 days of scrubbing with a tooth brush to get the bearings cleaned up. I also ran pipe cleaners in spots to get things scrubbed as well.

The block was pretty easy to clean. I soaked some brake cleaner and scrubbed to the it cleaned. The ports behind the cylinder sleeve were another story. Because they have a casting finish the sludge did not want to let go. I used a series of Dremel wire brushes and some sharp screwdrivers to get those things cleaned. I am thinking about using some stones and polishing those passages.

I was able to get things all cleaned up and assembled during my Christmas break from work. I live about 2 hours away from where the sleds are parked at my folks house. I am currently having troubles getting the timing dialed in. I believe what is tricking me up is that the centrifugal advance. My Clymer book says that for my serial number of engine that the advance needs to be fully advanced toward the rim of the flywheel. However the picture shows the lever to be about half way through the wide open position, right in the middle of the spoke. I am trying to determine what is the fully advanced position. If anyone has a clue please let me know. Attached are photos from the book.
 

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Hey what oil to gas ratio are you guys running the 440 fan at?

Mine runs good for a while, like 5-10 minutes, then once I let off the gas and go to get back on it, it just bogs. Dont want to go. Carb is clean, both cylinders got good spark when its bogging. After I let it sit for a while it will run fine for a while again.

Tried spraying carb cleaner to clutch side gasket, but with the ring gear for the electric starter there, wasnt sure if the spray was getting into the seal. ANyhow the revs didnt change.
 

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I run 40:1 on my Everest and it seems to be working fine.

Xr 583 does your engine have all the cooling tin on the engine? If not maybe your engine is just getting to hot. I know on my 440 I don't have all the tin that goes over the heads, if I stop for a second while I am riding I need to open my hood for a second or two and then I am good to go again. I would guess that yours is probably crank seals. I would just change them to rule them out. Thats what I did.

Matt
 

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Ya Zooman, it does have all the colling tin on the hood. I am also thinking crank seals too. Will have to take a break from the other sleds and do them sometime. The sled is in pretty good shape. Had the seat recovered and started polishing the tunnel. Will get a pic of it sometime and throw on here!!
 

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your best bet is to get the model of clutch you have on your sled and then go to a dealership and see if they might have a clutch puller for that type of clutch that you might be able to borrow for the five mins itll take to get it off. after you have the puller take the bolt out of the end of clutch which frees it up from the shaft, next you have to tighten the puller up in the hole where the bolt came out, now do whatever it takes to turn the puller onces its tight, it wont break, you may even have to stand on it and bounce a few times to pop the clutch off the shaft, the clutch will be on there like a SOB
 
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